Metal spinning.

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Ian. It's surprising the huge difference a few wire burned rings can make to a turned piece of wood.I've been woodturning for many years and used the wire burning technique many times. I like the smell of the smoke given out during wire burning; the wire can glow red hot and needs treating with extreme caution; I've already mentioned the dangers involved but well worth repeating; never ever wrap anything around hands or fingers when near a lathe in motion; it's a sure way to a serious accident; my Graduate and Lorch lathes are 1.5hp each via a VFD; if the motor overloads by grabbing a few fingers the VFD compensates giving up to a 50% power increase so either of my lathes could remove an hand or fingers without even slowing down. I've been married to Bron for 42 years and have never worn a wedding ring solely because I was taught on industrial lathes/machinery where such a small thing as a wedding ring or even a watch could kill me if I was dragged in.

I've been storing a few holly branches under the bungalow allowing them to air dry; recently I decided to try a couple of these branches and successfully turned two nice flower vases one seen below; once the branches had been reduced to round the holly was pleasant to turn it being an hard dense wood. I used wire burning on both vases making them look even more special. Wire burning is done in a few seconds with the lathe at speed; I use a skew chisel to make a tiny groove then the wire is prevented from skating around but as I say extreme care is needed because when a lathe in motion grabs it takes no prisoners; wire burning though does enhance a turned item.

I've now got four metal spinning tools; three for actual metal spinning one for trimming; the three will cover most spinning needs but I'd like to experiment with wheeled spinning tools because a wheeled tool is kinder and gentler to the metal being spun. Lubrication of the metal being spun is paramount; I watched a novice on YouTube attempting to do metal spinning for the first time and he failed miserably; the tool made metal to metal contact which quickly roughed up and destroyed the metal; I grasped the basics very quickly because I had support and encouragement from a master metal spinner but I can say metal spinning for a novice is definitely not easy. Once the first circle is spun successfully though it gives such a thrill and the desire to spin a lot more; I now find metal spinning to be addictive; all I now need is some uninterrupted peace in the workshop which is quite rare.

Kind regards, Colin.

Home grown and seasoned holly being turned into a vase; this being one of two such vases.

Bron is delighted with her vase having added silk flowers the second vase with silk flowers made a special present for wonderful neighbours who moved away.

I love to experiment in the workshop; here's a test piece showing wire burning but also something new for me to try it being texturing.

Here's my home made texturing tool that I used on the test piece shown above. My workshop is a fascinating place to play around in; our neighbour Caroline this morning whilst collecting two bags of firewood commented how nice it smelled in the workshop; I'd just been cutting pitch pine on the radial arm saw. I seem to have less time now I'm retired to potter around than whilst I was working full time but I'll never be bored.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I've managed a few sessions in the workshop and today done a bit more metal spinning. I was engrossed in what I was doing concentrating hard; the handle of the metal spinning tool was against my chest and I was pressing hard when suddenly I suffered a sharp severe pain taking my breath away; I don't understand what happened but the tool handle only moved a bit possibly dropping from my lower rib but it certainly got my full attention; it's surprising the amount of leverage required on the tool handle whilst metal spinning; I do have a problem in that I sat the Graduate lathe on 3" high blocks in order to make it suit my height during woodturning; I find though in metal spinning the lathe is now a bit too high causing me to struggle a bit; I think I'll make a wooden platform to stand on to raise my height whilst metal spinning?

I've now made two brand new lamp bodies out of 2mm thick aluminium and today been spinning the fronts.

Kind regards, Colin.

Two new lamp bodies to replace the original rusty bodies. I can also now cut glass circles.

I find lollipop sticks to be extremely useful for lots of jobs in the workshop; I've used one today to spread glue on the metal spinning former I made from two layers of MDF; they are also brilliant for use spreading glue into biscuit joint slots.

The metal spinning former made of two layers of MDF glued and screwed then turned to profile.

Metal spinning underway.

Center holes need cutting and with a bit of fettling these should be fine.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

What a terrible miserable wet day it's been today but in spite of it I've just enjoyed an hour in the workshop metal spinning; I wondered if I could add a bead to the lamp fronts; the ones shown above are fine but a bead on the outer edge would be a nice finishing touch? This time I used the 0.9mm thick aluminium and effortlessly spun the main body; with a deep breath I then to my surprise quickly spun a bead and tucked its edge in neatly; unfortunately I experienced problems in seperating the new front from the former ending up flattening the bead front before it finally came free; I might redesign the former now I've had a bit more practice and understand what's needed; I'm very pleased though to have spun a decent bead first attempt; I've got 200 aluminium circles so can experiment a bit? Professional spinners have wheeled tools for forming perfect beads; perhaps now is the time to make such a beading tool?

Kind regards, Colin.

WOW I'm improving; now I've enjoyed some practice spinning this was easy and quick.

My first bead and spun using a standard spinning tool; the high polish is very quickly added using Solvol Autosol applied to the spinning aluminium with a piece of paper towel; a good finish can be obtained directly from the tool but a quick polish with Solvol makes a lot of difference; these will be painted in due course.

The inside with the lens hole cut out; the front edge is quite flat due to it being forced from the former; I might start over and design/turn a new former to give easier release using less pressure on the tool also making a new beading tool would prove interesting at this stage; I'm not in a hurry and am making rapid progress on my metal spinning learning curve.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I've been doing light work in workshop sorting out how to mount the front lens surrounds; these are the two new surrounds I was spinning and have completed. I used CAD to draw a circle and divided this by four to give screw locations adding two more circles giving cutting lines for the scissors; these were cut out and the centers transferred to the covers then the covers were center popped ready to be drilled; I clamped the covers in position on the lamp bodies and drilled through at tapping size; the covers were then drilled at clearance but the main lamp body then had the holes tapped at 4BA.

Very short 4BA machine screws were needed so I used a technique I've used many times whilst wanting to cut multiple screws exactly to length; I nipped a short length of angle iron in the engineering vice this having a thickness which was perfect gauge for new screw length; I drilled and tapped at 4BA then I easily cut the screws using an hacksaw and finished with a file to remove the burr. All the holes line up perfectly and now the covers could be loosely secured; I might have to modify this method of mounting further once I start to install the lens.

I'm pleased with the new front covers these being more rounded at the rim. I'm now feeling much better but am avoiding metal spinning for a while. Yesterday and today I wanted to resume work on these lamps but it's been much too cold.

Kind regards, Colin.

I'm more pleased with these two lens covers they having nicer rounded rims.

A short length of angle iron drilled and tapped at 4BA; the thickness of the angle iron was perfect for the length of screw I needed.

Cutting eight identical short length screws would be very difficult but by using the method described with the angle iron it was a very easy job and ensured every screw length was identical.

Eight screws needed eight screws cut.

The lens covers in position loosely secured with the screws; these are only temporary because they will be replaced by 4BA threaded studs and brass domed nuts; I've now got the domed nuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-Bra...7:g:EOsAAOSwpvZaHTXu:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I'm now on form after cracking a rib metal spinning; I finally managed to get into the workshop yesterday and do a bit more metal spinning but this time without using my chest to apply pressure to the tool handle just using my arms and hands; I used 0.9mm thick aluminium which is easier to spin but needs more care and quickly spun two lamp bases after first a bit of woodturning to make the former to spin against.

With some drilling; marking out; cutting on the bandsaw then this morning bending and drilling one of the bases is now installed much to my delight.

I've just knocked off for a brew and biscuit. It's a dark; wet miserable day outside but nice in the workshop with all the LED panel lights and fan heater switched on. I have trouble getting into the workshop due to more pressing demands and for many years I've wondered where I can hide to get some peace and quiet. Three nights ago at 02:10 cats were scrapping outside our bedroom window we living in a bungalow; two nights ago at 02:20 more cats scrapping outside our bedroom window; last night in the early hours it was a burglar alarm. Why do I go to bed. During the day it's even worse; concentrating buying new tyres on the computer the door bell sounded; of course I'll be delighted to become a Jehovah Witness; I felt sorry for the white and coloured lady traipsing around in dire weather whilst at the top of the pecking order their leaders will be living in the lap of luxury but then people do tend to behave like sheep? No offence meant but just leave me alone. I can manage a morning though in the workshop but after dinner we are visiting our next door neighbour exchanging Christmas prezzies; Bron enjoys Christmas and trims up a bit around the bungalow but for me I think Christmas is a total waste when I could be doing something a lot more interesting like watching paint dry in the workshop; the stores enjoy Christmas but there will be many unhappy people in the New Year when they look at their bank account? OK so I'm miserable.

Kind regards, Colin.

One lamp bottom installed; corner holes don't need filling and will allow a bit of ventilation. Please note the lead cames securing the glass in position.

Inside shot; It's surprising how much time and effort has been put in to reach this stage but then a lot of time was spent learning metal spinning and cracking a rib.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I'm classed as miserable because I dislike Christmas; miserable me? I'm happy having got back into the workshop yesterday and today whilst also looking forward to springtime. I don't need excuses like Christmas or the New Year to spoil Bron; I try to spoil her all year as she does me. Life's good.

Kind regards, Colin.

What a shame to cover the shiny aluminium with paint but at last the coach lamp project is moving forward nicely; I've just blown them over with primer from a rattle can and knocked off for the fumes to settle whilst I have a brew.

These metal spinning tools were constantly in the way whichever bench I placed them on and wall space is now very limited so yesterday I made supports to attach them to the door as seen; not pretty but it gets them out of the way whilst also keeping them ready for action; the longest is 42". The door leads to underfloor storage running the length of the bungalow.

 

[Silentrunning]

Colin, you are right- a shame to cover up the shiney Aluminum with paint. If you make another set of lamps consider Brite Anodize for your finish. You would have to have this done prior to assembly but it would make a stunning fixture.

I also wanted to comment that your attention to detail is inspirational. Thanks for your detailed posts.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

This is kind of you Doug; thank you. The guy who has been so generous with me not only supplying the aluminium circles and the help to get me metal spinning quickly did offer to have the lamps anodised.

This started out as a coach lamp restoration but I tend to get carried away with my enthusiasm and looking at the corroded reflectors and how badly the lamps were constructed I've ended up making mostly new lamps but then this is what I do for fun and as an hobby; as long as I'm pottering around in the workshop or doing jobs around home I'm happy; I like to share my stories because looking at other peoples work/projects often gives me ideas and inspiration; life is so much better with at least one hobby.

I'll have a go at anything which grabs my interest; years ago I was asked for advice regarding restoring an antique wooden clock case this being genuinely over 100 years old; the case was in a terrible condition and sympathetic restoration wouldn't do much for its looks so rather than suggest what would only be a bodge job especially since the owner had no previous experience of such work I was sort of dragged in.

The front top panel was just a waste of time it being damaged with missing veneer and with a distinct bow so this was removed and dumped; now I could gain access to the top joints which I repaired with traditional hot hide glue. The main case veneer was a mess so I stripped the lot then hand scraped down to bare timber. Bron accompanied me on a nice countryside drive whilst I collected new Australian Walnut veneer. This new veneer was laid with the hot hide glue; now the clock looked rather strange clad in the new light coloured veneer but no problem as this was expected; going over with stain brought it to the correct colour. French polish finished the main case.

The front glazed door was a challenge due to the unique glass which couldn't be replaced if broken so I had to work round this taking a lot of time and patience; in turn this too was stained and french polished; not wanting the finish to look like a glossy toffee apple I hand rubbed it giving a very nice old satin look then a coat of wax completed the job. I had taken the main case to the owner to get it out of harm's way; I was rewarded for this by his wife telling me I had visited just at tea time; I had just endured three quarters of an hour in grid lock traffic and I had the same returning home; once the door was completed I returned it asking the owner to please email me pictures of the completed case once it was hung; I received one very poorly focussed picture; Bron and I had travelled miles to buy the veneer; I spent a great deal of time on the restoration and more time running around to deliver the clock; I didn't charge a single penny having bought the veneer and supplying the finishing materials together with car fuel; one poor picture plus a telling off for daring to deliver the case at tea time I reckon is little reward; we no longer see this couple who own the clock. I hope this is of interest; I wasn't bothered about monetary gain my pleasure was in doing the restoration but now I no longer get pulled into helping out; it's seldom worth it.

Kind regards, Colin.

Hand scraping to bare timber.

Top front panel veneer being removed but the timber was split and bowed so removed and dumped a new panel being made and fitted.

New top panel made; installed; stained and french polished. Looks a lot better.

One very sorry looking clock case. Please note removed veneer on bench.

New veneer in all its glory but wrong colour so it was stained.

The door painstakingly rubbed back to bare timber ready for staining.

The same door stained and french polished with a hand rubbed satin finish.

Close up of hand rubbed finish which looks like a well cared for antique.

Pity I didn't take better pictures of the finished case this immediately after french polishing being far too shiny; it was then hand rubbed to give a beautiful satin finish begging to be stroked.

 

[Silentrunning]

Please elaborate on “French polishing”. I am not familiar with this process.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks for asking about french polishing Doug. French polishing goes back a long long way in time;

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish

French polishing proper takes a lot of time and skill but with practice and determination a novice can make a decent job; it's difficult to really fail because french polish is forgiving; it (shellac) can always be rubbed down and gone over again but care is needed where veneer is involved otherwise excessive rubbing down using abrasive paper can break through the veneer to the substrate then it's time for tears and upset; I found out by experiment I could slap the french polish on then let it harden and flat it out using abrasive paper; this quickly builds up the basic coats but here's the story;

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47952

For those wishing to have a go at veneering here's another story;

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=306

I learned both veneering and french polishing from scratch making just about every mistake possible but I learn from mistakes and I never quit once I start. In later years videos started to appear on YouTube and here's an absolutely brilliant tutorial on veneering using traditional hot hide glue; using hot hide glue is also a useful skill to master.

I've made lots of furniture both built in and free standing over the years and never tire of woodworking; as I said earlier I'll have a go at anything which grabs my interest; this metal spinning is my latest adventure and is very rewarding once the basic skills are grasped; I don't like copying feeling much happier coming up with my own ideas and making all the mistakes; I even made from scratch a large wire wound bespoke potentiometer for a guy who owned a hugely expensive vintage car and who was having trouble with the fuel gauge; he had obtained a suitable fuel gauge but not calibrated to his car; I think his potentiometer (sender) was rated at 100 Ohms and I made one at 50 Ohms giving full scale deflection (FSD) at the fuel gauge. This was yet another story on one of the forums.

I've added some of the Bush radio restoration pictures previously but below are a few of the pictures showing a full french polish restoration I carried out. I love leaving my comfort zone to learn new skills otherwise I'd be absolutely bored.

Kind regards, Colin.

The Bush cabinet as an ugly duckling being flatted with abrasive paper talcum powder used as lubricant. Note the 100w light bulb; this was wired in series with any untested chassis; if the bulb lit up and glowed then the chassis had a direct short so was immediately switched off before capacitors started to explode; also just behind the grille above the lamp bulb is the mains isolation transformer yet another safety precaution; some of the test kit can also be seen; I started from scratch and enjoyed learning over the next ten years.

This is now even better than when it was when it left the factory; the black trim adds to its appeal and isn't standard; I thought I'd try it and was delighted with the result.

French polish in all its glory with a brilliant shine which suits this cabinet. Please note the trim before I added the black.

Here's the radio fully restored; yes I restored the chassis too so it was in full working order; what a truly fascinating hobby vintage radio restoration is but also highly dangerous because these old radios can kill without warning many having a "live" chassis" leading to electrocution if played with by a novice; I did lots of research and bought test kit before working on a chassis.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Before steering back on topic just a few more pictures to encourage anyone to try doing something totally new as a hobby.

Restoring vintage radio/TV's is as I say a wonderful hobby involving many skills; many top restorers only concentrated on the chassis work whereas a number of us did the comprehensive restoring bringing the set back to as near new as possible.

The chassis of the Ekco T311 radio/TV I fully restored; a skip would have rejected this entire TV it being in terrible condition but to any serious restorer it was a perfect project.

The chassis restored and being refitted into the fully restored cabinet; this Ekco is a 17" model and is both radio and TV. I upgraded the mains inputs for safety.

This is the LOPT (line output transformer) the actual transformer is missing and the condition of the whole chassis was like this. Having replaced many components there was still a "short" which I spent ages trying to find without success so in the end I plugged the chassis into the full mains 240V stood back and switched on; the loud bang and bright blue flash saved lots more wasted time; this quickly found the short.

The bare screen on a test rig sitting on the bench inches away from me under power having a soak test; it gave me such a buzz of satisfaction and personal pride to have finally got the chassis fully working; I did the entire cabinet restoration on my own but top marks to all the forum members who kindly took me by the hand and led me through the entire chassis restoration; these chassis can and do kill; I picked up this hobby from scratch as a total novice.

Now back to the plot; its very cold today but this morning I wandered down to the workshop with the intention of applying gold paint to the first lamp; this was a disaster; the paint went on and also wiped off with the brush; it was hopeless; the gold paint was water based acrylic. Oh dear this wasn't going to work and my hands by now were messed up with paint. Switch everything off and come up into the kitchen where it is a lot warmer allowing me to work in comfort. Bron is well into artists painting and crafts; Bron had kindly given me the gold paint and when I showed her the mess I had made Bron handed me a different brand of gold paint this time solvent based. The unfriendly gold paint was washed off and the part dried then I applied a first coat of the solvent based gold paint; at first I was disappointed but this is where a deep breath and lots of patience is called for; the two items I've experimented with are now in the warm kitchen to allow the paint to dry; it might take three coats to get the coverage of paint I need but then my intention is to blow over it all with rattle cans of clear lacquer; these lamps will be exposed to extremes of weather so the more protection I can add now the better.

First attempt using water based acrylic gold paint which was a disaster so abandoned.

The second attempt at painting now in the warm kitchen using solvent based gold paint; not perfect with the first coat but looking promising; I'd have much preferred to spray but it's too cold and I don't have spray gold paint; if this second attempt fails then I will resort to spraying; I'm determined to win however much it costs or however long it takes.

 

[Ian]

Wow, that is some restoration - I can only imagine how many hours it must have taken to get working from that state. Good work .

The second lot of paint looks promising, I'll be interested to see how the 2nd (or 3rd!) coat looks. This is a very enjoyable project to follow .

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Ian. The TV restoration took months to complete; I did it in front of the world from start to finish really sticking my neck out; I was very confident regarding the cabinet restoration but I had never attempted to repair a TV chassis; I added the restoration in two parts the cabinet and the chassis; I've mentioned these a number of times but here are the links once again;

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=62371

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67298

I did the restoration during the worst winter on record; the workshop windows were iced up on the inside so I did lots of the cabinet work veneering and french polishing on the kitchen work surface. The radio forum was the very first forum I joined and being an absolute novice to vintage radio/TV I did wonder if I had really plunged myself into the unknown abyss? I was made most welcome from my very first post and over the next ten years I gained a great deal of experience allowing me to add many of my restorations not only onto the forum but I also had published over ten articles on the subject; in 2009 I was honoured with top restoration award by The British Vintage Wireless Society of which I was also a contributing member. Bron encouraged me to submit an article to the BVWS and I confess I felt uneasy because the top radio/TV experts in the world were/are members so how could I ever fit in; I submitted three different articles and was absolutely amazed when all three were published in the "The Bulletin" the publication of the BVWS.

https://www.bvws.org.uk/publications/bulletins.php/volume34number4

Page 43 by Colin Wood is the AVO wave winder restoration I was honoured with best restoration. I didn't submit the TV restoration for publication because adding the daily update on the forum and doing the restoration was very time consuming indeed.

A little story though; it was strange how this TV restoration came about but it really did start when I was gaining lots of experience and confidence in restoring vintage radios; I had already posted a number of radio restorations on the forum and thought it would be a good idea to add a thread covering a full and comprehensive vintage radio restoration in front of the world starting from removing the control knobs right through to having the set working; the set chosen to be a "basket case" the roughest set I could put my hands on to include just about all the problems associated with these vintage radios. I spent ages and typed up twelve full A4 pages which covered from removing the knobs to getting the bare chassis onto the bench; my idea was to do this in stages; stop at each stage for questions to be asked and answered by the experts; before adding the thread I visited a forum moderator and politely explained my intention and could he please check and edit; with eight pages deleted by the moderator I dumped the remaining four pages in disgust; the reason given was that such a thread would be a nightmare to moderate?

Later I saw a picture of a wreck of a TV in The Bulletin that looked interesting so I made enquiries but it wasn't for sale however on the forum a number of members kindly offered me TV sets; I selected the worst of the lot the Ekco T311. Having got the TV home I as usual started a thread on its restoration and suddenly the project took on a life of its own as seen in the threads at the two links above; the moderator denied me adding the planned radio restoration but this TV restoration certainly wasn't going to be attacked by the same moderator; I couldn't understand the moderator at all because the forum was/is about encouraging the exchange of information and surely what would be better than a very comprehensive manual covering a full blown radio restoration? After ten interesting years with radio restoration as an hobby I still know very little about the subject but I was cheeky enough to leave my comfort zone and have a go.

As usual I'm rambling on but I like to encourage everyone to try something new; a new hobby can be so interesting and give lots of pleasure; much better than watching the rubbish on TV?

I gave the two lamp components a second coat of gold paint and they do look better but I feel however many coats of paint I apply by brush the finish isn't going to please me; I took a lot of time and patience but still the paint looks rather patchy; the paint I'm using is is this;

This is glass paint; Bron uses it on ceramics and after letting it air dry bakes it in the oven; it's tough stuff so should be ideal for the lamps but I'm unhappy with the patchiness due to the brush; I've now bought through eBay this;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tetrosyl...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

All this is new to me so I'm experimenting; once the rattle can of gold paint arrives then I can apply this as the top coat which should give the desired finish; all I'm after with the gold paint is even coverage because the finish coats will be clear lacquer; funds aren't a problem so I can enjoy playing around; the picture shows the problem; I know I'm picky but compromise isn't an option to me. I'm learning all the time. I don't care how long I take on this project.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

With my luck if I tried to shoot myself I'd surely miss. Why did I get out of bed this morning? Moan over so back to the plot.

I've struggled so hard to work on these coach lamps putting in many hours of work and even fracturing a rib whilst metal spinning; it's been difficult getting workshop time and when I've been in the workshop I've felt I should be elsewhere so what's now gone wrong to wind the big key up in my back. Because it's winter and cold I'm unable to open the workshop doors and use my spray equipment so I've resorted to using rattle cans for applying primer then brush for the top coats. All was going well until a short while ago; I decided to blow over the gloss black with clear coat acrylic enamel; the gloss black is engine/manifold paint so I never gave it a second thought as I sprayed the clear coat; I could have cried when I saw the black start to crinkle after the endless hours already put in.

The pictures below show the result of this mornings workshop session; good job I don't quit otherwise I'd have destroyed both lamps and dumped them; I don't care how long this project is going to take and I no longer care how much punishment I'm going to endure these two lamps are going to be completed.

What will be the next problem; I'm awaiting a rattle can of gold paint now will this too damage the gold already applied?

Kind regards, Colin.

Just my bad luck and being caught out once again but I'll not give in. Just more lost days in starting over then having to wait for new paint to dry; tomorrow is boiler servicing day so another interrupted workshop day. Things are normal.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

After the upset with the paint this morning it wasn't the end of the world and just another problem to overcome.

Back on track again now waiting for paint to dry.

Kind regards, Colin.

Bubbled paint removed and rubbed down ready for new paint.

New paint brushed on and a second coat will finish it off; no clear lacquer though I've learned my lesson.

If only our climate was better then I could use the spray guns.

 

[Ian]

Oh no! At least it was something fixable . May be worth doing a test piece before the gold spray paint, just in case .

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Ian.

This project has been more punishment than pleasure right from the start so last night I decided to do something about it.

The new rattle can of gold paint arrived yesterday and I gave it to Bron; I've endured enough already with things winding me up so this time the gold paint won't wind me up any longer. Over the years I've done a great deal of painting including spraying vehicles but never encountered these silly problems due to incompatibility between paints.

The black paint causing the problems was bought at Rufforth Auto Jumble from a big paint stall that sells good quality paints. I was advised this black paint would be ideal for this application so I bought a tin and at £12 it wasn't cheap paint. I've had a look at the tin this morning and I'm pretty sure it is illegal to sell this paint here in the UK; the picture shows the tin and it's actually calliper and engine paint not as stated previously manifold and engine paint. There are absolutely no safety details on the tin not even what type of paint it is other than enamel?

Anyway in a determined mood I wandered into the workshop very early this morning; I rubbed down the items to be painted using 240G abrasive paper then dusted the items off. I came up into the bungalow for a mug of tea then wandered back to the workshop.

These lamps don't want to be painted black and gold which is obvious after all the failed attempts but they sure are going to be painted or destroyed.

I've now painted them with Zinsser Cover Stain primer. The lamps are now going to be finished in Benjamin Moore Exterior Satin to be colour matched to the bungalow; this BM paint here in the UK now costs £82.50 per US gallon; I have some left over from bungalow exterior makeover.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/997/baja-dunes?color=997

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us...-color/color/2111-40/taos-taupe?color=2111-40

The Zinsser is brilliant paint for primer and I know it covers just about any paint; it looks fine so once it dries then I can apply the top coats and finally move this project on to completion.

It's a beautiful sunny but cold day today; I can seldom use my spray guns because it means fully opening the workshop doors to let the paint fumes disperse; to spray in an enclosed workshop is asking for an explosion.

Kind regards, Colin.

I wish I'd never seen this paint and will never use it again.

The lamp items ready for painting .

Painted with Zinsser Cover Stain using a fine artists flat brush.

The rest of the items in Zinsser primer. I might now manage to finish the paintwork?

 

[Retired]

Hi,

The paintwork has progressed apace and this first lamp is now nearing completion; a couple of items still require another coat of paint then it's a case of assembling and wiring; the new brass lamp sockets arrived today.

More pictures of work in progress below.

Kind regards, Colin.

New brass lampholders; these lamps being metal will require an earth (ground) lead for electrical safety.

Parts painted hung to dry.

Looking more like it at last; the three items in the foreground are a darker colour; the contrast will be more pronounced once the lamps are assembled.

 

[Ian]

Zinsser make some great paints - I use their 123 primer regularly, it covers pretty much anything .

Glad to see you're making some progress with that paint!

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Ian. Yes Zinsser are excellent and at last a bit of good news; I've just come out of the workshop after doing a bit of assembling and the first lamp now has its new electrics. Because these lamps are metal it's imperative connect to Earth (Ground) so I've done this and to be certain have tested for continuity once the lamp holder had been screwed home; the pins to the cable ends Live & Neutral are fine as is the metal body to the end of the Earth lead; whilst playing around it's easy to disconnect something so a quick check is always worthwhile.

A threaded rod holds the top sections together but unfortunately as I unscrewed this rod it snapped at the nut so is now too short; I have plenty of rod material but not the correct die to add new threads so tomorrow I'll sort this out and once the top section is completed I can finally add three new reflectors. The front of each reflector has received two spray coats of clear lacquer from a rattle can; the back of each reflector is now painted black the backs being out of sight.

This first lamp is now taking shape after what seems forever; once completed the second lamp will be completed much quicker because most of the work on it is already done.

Kind regards, Colin.

The six reflectors showing the front and back; three per lamp; I'll be very pleased indeed once these are secured in position; a few weeks ago I had never tried metal spinning but it's amazing what can be achieved with persistence and determination. Once these lamps are completed I hope to do more metal spinning but to combine this with woodturning; I like trying something new and to leave my comfort zone.

The first lamp now coming together; the wall mounting should be to the rear but its easier to sit on the bench as its shown.

Interior picture showing the new brass lamp holder and lead cames securing the side lens. Bottom holes are included to allow for drainage.