Install inline power switch for small appliance. 'Rating' issue?

[Quourteous]

Hi All.

I'm trying to neaten up a kitchen counter-top by installing a socket multiplier adapter, this one https://www.walmart.com/ip/GoGreen-...-Outlet-Side-Wall-Tap-White-16000TSM/46097906 so that we don't have to keep unplugging several small appliances, each of which is in frequent use, into the standard two-socket plate on the wall.

One possible complication: one of the appliances is a rice cooker that does not have an on-off switch, go figure. So the only way to turn it off is to unplug it. Otherwise the thing is permanently 'on' at its 'warm' setting, obviously unhelpful.

So my solution would be to wire into its power cable an inline switch like this one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cord-Cab...e-Lamp-Desk-Light-Line-Switch-H3H2/2197505114

For safety's sake, I need to be sure that the switch can handle the wattage of the rice cooker. I think I know the answer (yes) but I'm not an electrician and I shouldn't trust my high school physics training, get it wrong and burn the house down ! The switch says that it's rated 10A. The rice cooker says it's 650W. So my high school physics would say 650W ÷ 120V max = ~5.4 Amps, so well within the 10A rating of the switch. But is that right? I seem to remember there's some RMS complication with AC current and I need to be sure.

Thanks so much,

 

[Frank Lavornga]

You are correct. Except we add 1.25 for continuous loads. That means it will run for 3 hours or more.
I don't think the rice cooker will.
Instead of cutting the cord. I'd use one of the plugs In the picture below. .

 

[Quourteous]

Oh Frank, thank you!

A more user-friendly and likely more robust solution – one that I would not have thought of!

Much appreciated!