How to join/dowel two pieces of wood different thicknesses

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I have just bought a Wolfcraft Dowelmaster. I want to join two pieces of wood end to end. The problem is that one of the boards is slightly thicker than the other. If I drill the holes using the jig they will be in the middle. Therefore the tops will not be flush. All I want is one side of the boards to be flush. I hope this makes sense. Any suggestions (apart from buying a different jig) would be appreciated.

Thanks

Brian :cool:
 
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I would measure the difference between the two (2) thicknesses.

So if you have one board at ¾" and another board at ½", the difference is ¼".

Go get a piece of scrap wood ¼" the place it under the ½" piece in your new jig.
 
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Thanks for that, obvious when you think about it doh!

Cheers

Brian
 
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Not sure about your jig but I have a biscuit joiner and the alignment for the slots on both pieces to be joined is always placed onto the face sides of both pieces. So even if the boards are not the same thickness, the biscuit is the same distance from the 'money' side of the joinery...... I guess if the dowel jig operates differently, then that won't help. One thought about dowels. Way back someone told me if you are using dowels, scrape a scratch or two along the edge. the idea is if the dowel is a sort of perfect fit and you put glue into the holes, you have the chance to create a hydraulic press sort of deal and depending on the wood thickness, you can actually pop the hole open on the face of the wood when you push the dowel. the scratches on the dowel allow the glue to escape and wont' pressurize the hole.
 
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Thanks for that, my dowels are already 'fluted' so should (I hope) be OK as fas as glue goes. I really must experiment with this jig.

Ta

Brian
 
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Yes, biscuit jointer the way to go.
Have used the Wolfcraft system but always go back to biscuits now.
Set the jointer to the middle of one of the boards and use the same depth on the other board.
Didn't the Wolfcraft come with it's own marking pins to transfer the depth from one board to the other?
I certainly have some steel pointed dowels that you fitted into the first set of drilled holes then you pushed the pins into the second board and drilled where it marked it.
 
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Thanks, it didn’t come with those marking pins so I bought a set covering most sizes, four of each size. This is what I intend to use. Must admit, I had not heard of them before but an excellent idea.
 
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I too "prefer biscuits for the ease of use, but Dowels served the world for many many years. There was really no point to BiscuitJjoiners being invented, other than, I suspect, a way to capture a market that now must buy these compressed biscuits. The same with the Festool crap, where you pay 1200 bucks for yet another new tool and get bled further for their hardwood joiners..... you don't need any of it. It's all marketing. Oh you'll read the propaganda about dowels blowing ot the face grain with dowels, the biscuits "registering" the face grain over time, it's all lies. In near 50 years I've never had it happen. First of all, you don't fill the hole when using dowels. you lightly brush the sides and tip of a dowel and tap it in slowly. If you bought fluted dowels, you have no issue because the excess will squeeze out as you are tapping. With biscuits you take the time it takes to get your centering just right, then you can zip the slots out effortlessly where ever it makes sense, and you don't have to worry about accuracy like you do with dowels. The biscuits are forgiving to a point. I've been doing this nearly 50 years, so my eyes aren't what they once were so for me, biscuits are easier. A simple pencil stroke across the two boards is plentBut you don't need one. Dowels are simple, dowels can be mad in your shop simply and cheaply, dowels do the job. In a moment of weakness I bought the Festool, and returned it the same day. 1200.00!!! I must have had a stroke or something to ever walk out of that store with that box in my hand, I made two holes with it, tapped in two heavy oak blocks and thought, Am I an idiot? I took it back when my common sense finally prevailed. Young woodworkers, trust an old VET. You don't need this expense. My hundred dollar Porter Cable has produced hundreds to tables and mantles and gosh knows what else. I still use dowels too. I make my own. I pound them thru a round hole to make them from square maple , then star shaped hole (in a peice of 1/2 inch flat steel) to flute them. Free dowels from scrap cutoffs.
If you don't believe me about these tools adding nothing to your quality of work, , watch some U tube videos of chinese craftsmen making unbelievable things. The most rudimentary tools, sometimes not even power. The one high cost tool that seems common across the board is a big heavy powerful bandsaw, other than that it's mostly hand planers, circular saws etc. Bare feet, which they also use as tools. We've been brainwashed by Advertising and Marketing. A craftsman is good with his mind and with his hands. The tools are secondary to that. You don't need anyones hands in your pockets to releive your self doubts. You get better by failing, learning from that, thinking up a new way, and going at it again. If I see a guy come into a jobsite with Festool bags, and high end overkill tools, I know that he has no confidence and he charges too much.
 
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