How do I fix these lights in an RV?

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Is the other light fixture wiring the same? 1 white wire to two white wires and one black wire.
Picture of wire side of switch?

Sorry for all the questions but it helps me to tell how to handle it. We are getting close to testing.
Yes, the wiring is identical. There is also two black wires coming from the switch to the bulbs.

Attached to the switch are three wires. One from ceiling to switch, and one from the switch for each bulb.

If it helps, before these lights went out, they flickered for a while.

IMG_20160204_223031347.jpg
 
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Don't like the blue connectors they could be the issue but for now ignore them.

Correct me if I am wrong but the switch has 3 positions. center is off, one position turns one bulb on. Then with the button on the switch moved across the off position to the other side turns two bulbs on. Correct?

You are going to need some wire that will reach from the farthest light fixture to either the white terminal strip on the fuse panel or to the white wire on the green terminal block on the inverter. Size of wire doesn't matter but something easy to work with. We are not dealing with a whole lot of amps.

I leave this up to you.
If you get a volt ohm meter (vom) We can work this with the power off. (Dead) or (cold)
Or we use your circuit tester and work this with the power on. (hot)

Either way is up to you. We may reach a point that we might have to work this both ways. (Dead and hot)

Going take shower and go to bed. Will catch you tomorrow.

John




 
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Don't like the blue connectors they could be the issue but for now ignore them.

Correct me if I am wrong but the switch has 3 positions. center is off, one position turns one bulb on. Then with the button on the switch moved across the off position to the other side turns two bulbs on. Correct?

You are going to need some wire that will reach from the farthest light fixture to either the white terminal strip on the fuse panel or to the white wire on the green terminal block on the inverter. Size of wire doesn't matter but something easy to work with. We are not dealing with a whole lot of amps.

I leave this up to you.
If you get a volt ohm meter (vom) We can work this with the power off. (Dead) or (cold)
Or we use your circuit tester and work this with the power on. (hot)

Either way is up to you. We may reach a point that we might have to work this both ways. (Dead and hot)

Going take shower and go to bed. Will catch you tomorrow.

John




The switch has only two positions. On (both bulbs) and off.

I have the wire and the circuit tester. I'll try it hot when you tell me what to do tomorrow.

(edit)

Change of plans, I will buy the volt ohm meter and work it cold. I was just cleaning out another tenants unit. They had an old lamp. I decided to plug it in to see if it worked. I was holding the metal frame and felt a surge through my body. Not fun. I'll work it cold.

Power will be shut off to the whole trailer.
 
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Take your tester with the power off and connect the clip to the white wire at the green terminal on the inverter, turn the power on and take the probe end and touch the black wire on the green connector making contact with the copper or you can touch the screw. I know the inverter works but i am verifying the tester. After this is done kill the power and disconnect tester from the inverter and go to the fuse panel and connect the clip to the white wire buss bar. Power up and take the probe tip and touch it to the black wire lug then on the end of the fuses there are two bare spots on each end of the fuses. Probe both sides of all the fuses. After that kill the power and let me know what you get.
 
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Take your tester with the power off and connect the clip to the white wire at the green terminal on the inverter, turn the power on and take the probe end and touch the black wire on the green connector making contact with the copper or you can touch the screw. I know the inverter works but i am verifying the tester. After this is done kill the power and disconnect tester from the inverter and go to the fuse panel and connect the clip to the white wire buss bar. Power up and take the probe tip and touch it to the black wire lug then on the end of the fuses there are two bare spots on each end of the fuses. Probe both sides of all the fuses. After that kill the power and let me know what you get.
I don't see a green terminal. I see a (-) wire (black), a (+) wire (white), two 30 amp fuses, and a "wire" made of hard copper that I'm assuming is the ground.

I noticed that black is (-), contrary to what you said earlier. I also noticed that my fuse panel says 15 amps next to each fuse even though the fuses in them are not necessarily 15 (some are bigger). Should I replace them with 15 amp fuses? Do you think an overload could have broken the fixtures?

And while we're at it, what is the white wire buss bar on the fuse box? Can you describe it in this picture?

IMG_20160205_215518565.jpg
 

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I'm sorry you are right, I should have looked at pic again before I spoke. It is the black terminal block. And the white wire buss bar is in the pic with the 5 blue fuses 2 yellow fuses and 1 green fuse pic. Lets try this again Sorry, Trying to do 2 things at once.

Take your tester with the power off and connect the clip to the bare copper wire at the black terminal on the inverter, this is your case ground. Turn the power on and take the probe end and touch the black wire then the white wire on the black connector making contact with the copper or you can touch the screws.

I know the inverter works but I am verifying the tester and verifying ground. After this is done kill the power and disconnect tester from the inverter and let me know what you get.
 
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Think simple. Next take the fixture down and see how the wiring looks behind the fixture. Let se what you find.
 

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