Plan to apply 1x4 wood strips to a wall in a chevron style. Plan is to apply firring strips to the studs, then use 1/2 inch plywood attached to the strips. Now I have something to attach the shorter strips to when there are no studs available. Using either poplar or pine as it will be painted. Final size 10 feet high by 7 feet wide. Any thoughts?
Wall Panelling
- Thread starter JohnnyA
- Start date
Hi,
Good question Johnny. Pictures would help but your plan sounds OK.
Bron and I are fans of wall panelling but only installed a bit of chevron panelling near our rear door but as you ask for ideas I'm happy to chip in.
I've successfully used MDF and plywood for panelling as seen in the pictures below. 10 feet tall is a challenge but 10' x 5' sheets of MDF are available. I use a router with a "V" cutter installed and although all my panels have vertical grooves there's no reason they couldn't be cut at any angle by arranging a router guide this being nothing more than a length of straight timber to run the router against but care is needed not to let the router take control and wander from the guide; I once made a plywood garage door with this method and this had a chevron pattern.
The MDF could be directly fastened to the wall and a bit of decent filler would hide any joints or screw heads before painting? Wall panelling is so versatile and only limited by imagination as to designs and patterns; MDF is also cheap.
Kind regards, Colin.
Sorry about picture quality but it's like living in a black hole here. I designed; made and installed our hardwood kitchen; the panels are nothing more than 6mm thick WBP plywood which is cheap; the plywood is V grooved; an overlay face frame makes it look very expensive; it was stained in Jacobean Dark Oak and given two coats of matt polyurethane varnish; the overlay frame can be arranged in any panel size to hide joints. Another picture of the kitchen is included below.
Here I'm installing wainscot wall panelling to our master bedroom; this is merely a single 8' x 4' sheet of 6mm thick MDF and the lay on frame is also MDF but 18mm thick; for this I ripped a full 18mm sheet into the desired widths. The frame moulding run with a router. The frame members were secured from the back with wood screws driven using a cordless drill/driver. A lot of care is needed at the planning stage to get all the grooves centred and also all the joints I cut with the router and home jig to ensure accuracy and good fitting joints. Zinsser cover stain primer was applied by brush to seal the routed moulding.
Wall unit cupboard doors with 1/4" thick plywood panels these V grooved using the router; the pictures don't do it justice; this kitchen has never aged unlike many modern kitchens.
The bedroom wainscot panelling fully installed with a dado rail. I could have completely panelled the walls but by breaking up the wall using panelling and painted lining paper we achieved the look we wanted. MDF is so useful especially when it's to be painted; browsing the web will give lots of ideas; if your desire is chevron then go for it Johnny; you mention using softwood but have you considered using MDF ripping it to 4" wide or you could even rip it to different widths for a bit of interest and variation; routing grooves in a big sheet though saves playing around with lengths of timber cladding and no joints to open up later. I hope I'm not side tracking you but you did ask for ideas and I love this kind of work.
Good question Johnny. Pictures would help but your plan sounds OK.
Bron and I are fans of wall panelling but only installed a bit of chevron panelling near our rear door but as you ask for ideas I'm happy to chip in.
I've successfully used MDF and plywood for panelling as seen in the pictures below. 10 feet tall is a challenge but 10' x 5' sheets of MDF are available. I use a router with a "V" cutter installed and although all my panels have vertical grooves there's no reason they couldn't be cut at any angle by arranging a router guide this being nothing more than a length of straight timber to run the router against but care is needed not to let the router take control and wander from the guide; I once made a plywood garage door with this method and this had a chevron pattern.
The MDF could be directly fastened to the wall and a bit of decent filler would hide any joints or screw heads before painting? Wall panelling is so versatile and only limited by imagination as to designs and patterns; MDF is also cheap.
Kind regards, Colin.
Sorry about picture quality but it's like living in a black hole here. I designed; made and installed our hardwood kitchen; the panels are nothing more than 6mm thick WBP plywood which is cheap; the plywood is V grooved; an overlay face frame makes it look very expensive; it was stained in Jacobean Dark Oak and given two coats of matt polyurethane varnish; the overlay frame can be arranged in any panel size to hide joints. Another picture of the kitchen is included below.
Here I'm installing wainscot wall panelling to our master bedroom; this is merely a single 8' x 4' sheet of 6mm thick MDF and the lay on frame is also MDF but 18mm thick; for this I ripped a full 18mm sheet into the desired widths. The frame moulding run with a router. The frame members were secured from the back with wood screws driven using a cordless drill/driver. A lot of care is needed at the planning stage to get all the grooves centred and also all the joints I cut with the router and home jig to ensure accuracy and good fitting joints. Zinsser cover stain primer was applied by brush to seal the routed moulding.
Wall unit cupboard doors with 1/4" thick plywood panels these V grooved using the router; the pictures don't do it justice; this kitchen has never aged unlike many modern kitchens.
The bedroom wainscot panelling fully installed with a dado rail. I could have completely panelled the walls but by breaking up the wall using panelling and painted lining paper we achieved the look we wanted. MDF is so useful especially when it's to be painted; browsing the web will give lots of ideas; if your desire is chevron then go for it Johnny; you mention using softwood but have you considered using MDF ripping it to 4" wide or you could even rip it to different widths for a bit of interest and variation; routing grooves in a big sheet though saves playing around with lengths of timber cladding and no joints to open up later. I hope I'm not side tracking you but you did ask for ideas and I love this kind of work.
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