Union Graduate Lathe.

[Retired]

Hi,

THanks Doug for the explanation and pictures. I wouldn't go to all the time and trouble removing the bearings only to clean a re-lubricate them; it's simply not worth it; if bearings are a bit rough or noisy at all just replace them; bearings aren't expensive and decent SKF bearings bought through eBay will set the machine up for years to come; I've forgotten the bearing numbers but once the bearings are out the numbers are plainly seen and these bearings are very common indeed; I'd go for double shielded either rubber or metal then you can forget about lubricating after all how many of these lathes supplied with grease cups ever had their grease cups used or filled?

I converted my Graduate to 1.5hp 3 phase using a top quality Brook inverter rated motor but run this through a VFD (Huanyang). My VFD is 3hp but runs the smaller motor without fuss; the VFD parameters need setting up though to match the motor being used; I'd also install a new drive belt if the mandrel is being removed; the drive belts are also cheap and will be stamped regarding length usually available from the bearing supplier.

With care to align and support drilling and tapping new securing threaded holes should be straight forward; I'd take a lot of care to get alignment as near perfect as possible; this on a woodturning lathe isn't at all critical unlike on an engineering lathe but it's worth going the extra effort and time. To drill the holes center pop then run through with a small diameter twist bit ensuring this is perpendicular to the face being drilled otherwise the mounting set screws will go in at an angle which must be avoided; a pilot hole relieves pressure on a the larger diameter drill bit point.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[DougM]

Colin I do not know how to thank you, I have tried to get this sort of help on the Union Graduate site but no one has come any where this.

I thank you for your time and knowledge in helping me with my possible mad adventure ( tiny budget , bad health ) my experience is no extant with regards to the Union Graduate , I feel renewed with this information, there other things I might need help with and am hoping that if you do not mind could I contact you as you appear to have done all I am about to attempt ??

 

[Markfireeye]

I too have a graduate union. It’s the long bed model. Rather than try and change to the short bed to gain added capacity ( larger diameter) I’m looking at making a plate to allow the bed to be mounted lower. I’ll raise the main machine body with a wooden step also incorporate easier floor mounting holes and the general height increase ( the standard height give me a bit of back ache)
the big work will be making extensions for the tail stock.
interested to see how you get on with your mods.
cheers Mark

 

[Retired]

Hi,

WOW how the time has passed by. You're most welcome Doug and I hope you've made positive progress since last posting; without decent workshop facilties it's always a struggle when trying to restore or modify machines.

Good luck with yours too Mark; I too am rather tall for the standard height of the Graduate; it's possible the height was determined due to schools buying so many of these excellent lathes; you'll see in my pictures I raised my Graduate by about 3" making it a lot more comfortable; mine isn't bolted down it heavy enough to withstand the turning I do but if turning big bowls then this is different.

I've been too busy to spend much time on the forum; I've completed the brazing machine and let my friend have it with my compliments; I'm now starting an induction heater project in-between all the other jobs which demand my time.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Boots7]

Hi,
Apologies for the late reply but being retired means full time grafting seven days a week with no time off.

Any chance of adding pictures which would be better than text alone? Once you get the Graduate up and running I'm sure you'll be very happy using it.

Kind regards, Colin.

Hi,

Hi,

A few years ago I bought a Union Graduate lathe in virtually scrap condition from an academy the lathe advertised on Gumtree. With the lathe home I could better assess just how bad it was; I intended to subject it to a full and comprehensive rebuild so it being in such poor condition wasn't a problem in fact it made it a lot cheaper which suited me; I'd fancied a Graduate for many years but without sufficient funds.

The lathe was completely stripped; the headstock mandrel with bearings were removed as were all electrics and the motor. The lathe was stripped to bare metal then brush painted in machinery enamel taking a lot of care.

New mandrel bearings were bought and carefully installed not forgetting to add a new drive belt; the motor was replaced with a top quality 3 phase inverter rated Brook motor at 1.1KW; a new VFD was bought allowing variable speed with reverse etc this being a huge upgrade making the lathe a great deal better than when it was new.

Missing parts I made as required; it was an easy but time consuming restoration for me but I ended up with a wonderful Graduate lathe now running ever so sweetly indeed; I've used it for woodturning and more recently learned how to metal spin on it; the lathe was too low for me as I'm tall so I made riser blocks lifting it 3" higher; it's a joy to own and use.

This is an excellent way to build up a first class workshop for little monetary outlay; for many years I've bought scrap machinery and done full restorations finding it to be highly interesting and rewarding.

I've added the story elsewhere but worth repeating in this new section.

Kind regards, Colin.

View attachment 2451

These old cast iron machines are wonderful to restore being built like tanks; it doesn't take a genius to work out this lathe needed new bearings.

View attachment 2452

Mandrel and headstock bearings removed; undue force must never be exerted otherwise a lot of serious damage can be caused; gently does it especially whilst installing new bearings.

View attachment 2453

A lot of dirty work but now ready for a paint job.

View attachment 2454

Tailstock locking lever items; a bodged repair is the set screw.

View attachment 2455

The original tailstock spindle minus its cam seen upper hence the set screw bodge which of course was a failure. The new spindle I turned shown lower which was an interesting job in its own right on the metal lathe.

View attachment 2456

The old tailstock lever assembly and my home made lever assembly.

View attachment 2457

What a difference and what a joy to own and use; please note wooden raising blocks and emergency kick switch.

Hi, I have a union graduate short bed, I need to replace the bearings but cant get the shaft out, Ive got it free but the bit on the left hand end wont come of? can you help please, Mick

 

[Retired]

Hi Mick,

Thanks for asking. It's so long ago I restored my Graduate I've forgotten a lot of it.

Are these two fully released; completely remove the grub screws not just loosening them.

Parts drawing I think it's part 26 you might mean. If so carefully look for a grub screw or even two but again fully remove.

PT 26 is listed as Bearing Carrier.

Please do not use excessive force the mandrel is gently tapped out with something like a club hammer but with a piece of protection to the end of the mandrel being hit such as a piece of 18mm thick MDF tapping with a light hammer might not shift it but definitely don't hit it hard; if it won't release then something is holding it also check for burrs on the mandrel it doesn't take much for it to lock solid.

Take extreme care on installing new bearings; no excessive force and cleanliness is highly important.

Good luck; these are wonderful lathes when in top condition.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Boots7]

Hi Mick,

Thanks for asking. It's so long ago I restored my Graduate I've forgotten a lot of it.

View attachment 5847
Are these two fully released; completely remove the grub screws not just loosening them.

View attachment 5848
Parts drawing I think it's part 26 you might mean. If so carefully look for a grub screw or even two but again fully remove.


View attachment 5849
PT 26 is listed as Bearing Carrier.

Please do not use excessive force the mandrel is gently tapped out with something like a club hammer but with a piece of protection to the end of the mandrel being hit such as a piece of 18mm thick MDF tapping with a light hammer might not shift it but definitely don't hit it hard; if it won't release then something is holding it also check for burrs on the mandrel it doesn't take much for it to lock solid.

Take extreme care on installing new bearings; no excessive force and cleanliness is highly important.

Good luck; these are wonderful lathes when in top condition.

Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, many thanks, we did remove all the grup screws,

Hi Mick,

Thanks for asking. It's so long ago I restored my Graduate I've forgotten a lot of it.

View attachment 5847
Are these two fully released; completely remove the grub screws not just loosening them.

View attachment 5848
Parts drawing I think it's part 26 you might mean. If so carefully look for a grub screw or even two but again fully remove.


View attachment 5849
PT 26 is listed as Bearing Carrier.

Please do not use excessive force the mandrel is gently tapped out with something like a club hammer but with a piece of protection to the end of the mandrel being hit such as a piece of 18mm thick MDF tapping with a light hammer might not shift it but definitely don't hit it hard; if it won't release then something is holding it also check for burrs on the mandrel it doesn't take much for it to lock solid.

Take extreme care on installing new bearings; no excessive force and cleanliness is highly important.

Good luck; these are wonderful lathes when in top condition.

Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, many thanks for replying so quickly, we did remove all the grub screws, part no 26 is the bit that is solid, there was only one grub screw and using a nail to check the depth it looks like the hole goes down to the shaft, maybe there is a burr in the bottom of the hole, its doesnt move at all so as you say , something is wrong which is why we stopped to find out more, does that grud screw go into the shaft, if so, by roughly how much? maybe part no 26 stays in the headstock and the shaft is driven out through it? Mick

 

[Retired]

Hi, many thanks, we did remove all the grup screws,
Hi, many thanks for replying so quickly, we did remove all the grub screws, part no 26 is the bit that is solid, there was only one grub screw and using a nail to check the depth it looks like the hole goes down to the shaft, maybe there is a burr in the bottom of the hole, its doesnt move at all so as you say , something is wrong which is why we stopped to find out more, does that grud screw go into the shaft, if so, by roughly how much? maybe part no 26 stays in the headstock and the shaft is driven out through it? Mick

Hi Mick,

You're welcome. Completely remove the grub screw then it's not going to cause problems then the mandrel should knock through towards the head stock; it will initially leave in the collar but this will then come out with the bearing; I think this is the way to go; if you're using a light hammer then perhaps an heavier hammer having more mass will shift it but whatever you do don't damage the mandrel end or threads; as I stated I tend to use a bit of 18mm thick MDF as a cushion between hammer and mandrel end; give it a good solid tap.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Boots7]

Hi Colin, took another look at the lathe this morning, all grub screws out, parts 26 the bearing carrier is jamed on the spindle, we can move it towards the tailstock 5 mm and back but cant drive the shaft through so we are going to make a puller so we are forcing the shaft through the part not banging against the casing,

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Better careful than sorry Mick. Just a thought; having removed all the grub screws can you rotate the individual parts around the mandrel with the mandrel stationary.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Boots7]

Hi, havent been able to turn the pully block yet by hand although it does slide along the mandril nicely, not been able to turn the bearing holder, we can move the bearing holder to the right 5 mm so will do that and measure the shaft thats exposed to compare at various places to see if its been damaged, Im going to make a puller working against the end of the shaft next week. There are two identical spacers, one each end shown on our exploded view, however, the one on the left along side the bearing holder is missing so we think that whoever took this apart last may not have been to carefull. Ill let you know how we get on, Ill take lots of pictures and do a youtube so other people have the info. Thanks, Mick