Hi,
You could try online searching for spares for your make of bandsaw and if lucky buy a replacement switch.
An alternative is to wire in a new DOL (Direct on line) starter at the correct voltage and amp overload.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/elctrical-motor-full-load-current-d_1499.html
Above link takes you to motor details and a 3/4hp single phase motor on 230V is stated as FLA 6.9;
Now to the actual starter;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dol-star...499128?hash=item4d1d909fb8:g:gRkAAOxyBPZTe2fX
I always prefer to be on top so would opt for;
It always pays to double check absolutely everything when buying a new starter; the starter coil must match the incoming supply; 230VAC in this case also the full load amps; if the starter isn't rated high enough amps then it will trip but on the other hand a starter needs to detect an overload allowing it to cut out.
Wiring a starter isn't a job for a novice because electricity on mains potential will definitely be highly dangerous and possibly lethal so I'm not encouraging anyone to mess around with electricity unless they have the experience.
Here's a picture showing a DOL starter fitted to my home made table saw this is on single phase at 4hp and the plug fits into a 32A socket; this is a dedicated socket protected by a "C" type mcb because I also run my big oil cooled welder from it; the consumer unit is RCD protected; any metal item must be correctly earthed (grounded) for safety. I won't go into lots of detail because novices tend to take risks and I don't want to kill anyone.
If the DOL starter can't be fitted directly to a machine then a remote control can be added; seen at the top left corner of the picture is the remote control for my Wilmac bandsaw; this is a simple start/stop button control but complicates wiring a bit; I'm adding this just for information to explain there are alternative options when wiring a motor.
Two of my lathes are fitted with identical motors at 1.5hp on 3 phase powered through a single VFD; I can select either Graduate woodturning lathe or Lorch Schmidt metal turning lathe due to the switching arrangement but can only run one lathe at a time; this has worked well for a number of years and I've not seen this done previously; it was difficult to get it to work because of the VFD signal cables picking up cross talk from the mains cables; in the end I used CAT 6 signal cable and it's been fine since.
Electricians won't pass on electrical information to DIY'ers for obvious safety reasons hence electrical work can be seen as a mystery and I add once again there are good reasons for this. Electric motors are fascinating to me and over many years I've wired them in many ways; single & 3 phase; run 3 phase from single phase; install my own 3 phase at 415V; Transwave static converter which I disliked and also the more modern VFD's; I invested in my safety buying electrical test equipment because I'm fully aware of the dangers; I was taught at the age of 16 by The National Coal board how to connect 3 phase motors and for 24 years worked at Brook motors but in distribution.
A single phase motor can also buzz if the capacitor has failed; this happens on a regular basis with our tumble drier; I always have a spare 8uF cap ready just in case. It's easy to jump to conclusions but a basic DMM (Digital multimeter) can often find the fault quickly set on the OHM's range with the machine isolated from the supply.
Here's my lathe control station housing the VFD. The big rotary switch selects either lathe this for the motor power.
The boxed switch is for the remote signal cables it being a low power toggle switch.
Here the Graduate lathe motor is selected.
Here the Graduate lathe signal to the VFD is selected.
VFD's don't like dust hence I made the vented enclosure. There are lots of options when wiring an electric motor so at last to answer your question YES there are ways of getting around your switch problem if you can't obtain a the correct manufacturers switch.
Good luck and play safe.
Rambling on as usual.
Kind regards, Colin.
