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Hi, hows it going?
I have a quick question, and I just need some friendly advice. I'm rather knowledgeable with tools, but sometimes I get in over my head. They say you have to get in over your head to learn how to swim right?
Anyway my question refers to a roof repair I'm trying to make on an old 1950's garage. It was built with rough cut lumber, 2x6, and I purchased 2x8 dimensional (I'm using my circular saw with another board the same length and I'm ripping them down to 6" actual.) I used a speed square and a plumb bob to ascertain that my roof pitch is 7:12.
Just for craps and chuckles I used a the measurement tables in the swanson speed square book, and it suggests with a building with of 20ft that the length of my rafters is 11ft 7". That didn't work it was 4 inches too short.
So, I figure, heck, I'll go to 143" and I'll tap it in with a hammer. Nope. Too long.
Whipped out my trusty tape measure and measured from the ridge cut to the tail, exactly 143". Hmm.
Each time that I mark the piece where I can eyeball it to be flush with the ridge board I end up with a cut that is just about 2 inches too short. I'm frustrated and trying not to blow through my wood so I'm asking for some assistance if anyone has any bright ideas.
The tail is 1 and 1/2". The seat cut comes out to about 10", and my plumb cuts I'm using a framing square with stair guages to ensure that my angles are true on 7:12 each time.
Now, it's probably important that I explain to you that I am trying to sister these from below the roof sheathing as I don't intend to take all of the sheathing off, instead I plan later to replace whatever rotted sheathing that I can and cover it all with 5/8" plywood before I install ice and water and whatnot.
I understand that in some cases a sister doesn't need to be the full length, but surely there must be a way to get it damn close. The other problem that I'm having is that I can't seem to match the new seat cut flush with the old rafter on the low end. Which is important because the old rafters tail is used to attach an eve, there aren't any birdsmouths on them. Perhaps if I just get them close as possible, I can remove the first few courses of 1x6 rough cut sheathing and add new tails?
After all, I'm looking for added structrual support on a handfull of rafters that have rotted where the tail meets with the top plate of the wall.
Did I answer my own question?
Am I making any sense?
I have a quick question, and I just need some friendly advice. I'm rather knowledgeable with tools, but sometimes I get in over my head. They say you have to get in over your head to learn how to swim right?
Anyway my question refers to a roof repair I'm trying to make on an old 1950's garage. It was built with rough cut lumber, 2x6, and I purchased 2x8 dimensional (I'm using my circular saw with another board the same length and I'm ripping them down to 6" actual.) I used a speed square and a plumb bob to ascertain that my roof pitch is 7:12.
Just for craps and chuckles I used a the measurement tables in the swanson speed square book, and it suggests with a building with of 20ft that the length of my rafters is 11ft 7". That didn't work it was 4 inches too short.
So, I figure, heck, I'll go to 143" and I'll tap it in with a hammer. Nope. Too long.
Whipped out my trusty tape measure and measured from the ridge cut to the tail, exactly 143". Hmm.
Each time that I mark the piece where I can eyeball it to be flush with the ridge board I end up with a cut that is just about 2 inches too short. I'm frustrated and trying not to blow through my wood so I'm asking for some assistance if anyone has any bright ideas.
The tail is 1 and 1/2". The seat cut comes out to about 10", and my plumb cuts I'm using a framing square with stair guages to ensure that my angles are true on 7:12 each time.
Now, it's probably important that I explain to you that I am trying to sister these from below the roof sheathing as I don't intend to take all of the sheathing off, instead I plan later to replace whatever rotted sheathing that I can and cover it all with 5/8" plywood before I install ice and water and whatnot.
I understand that in some cases a sister doesn't need to be the full length, but surely there must be a way to get it damn close. The other problem that I'm having is that I can't seem to match the new seat cut flush with the old rafter on the low end. Which is important because the old rafters tail is used to attach an eve, there aren't any birdsmouths on them. Perhaps if I just get them close as possible, I can remove the first few courses of 1x6 rough cut sheathing and add new tails?
After all, I'm looking for added structrual support on a handfull of rafters that have rotted where the tail meets with the top plate of the wall.
Did I answer my own question?
Am I making any sense?