Bullseye 123 primer peeling on silver wall

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Hello.
I have one wall in my bathroom that had a silver paint on. Sanded, sugar soaped, 2 coats of Bullseye 123 primer. Supposed to be coatable in 24hrs but noticed primer is peeling. No damp issues.

This is the second attempt on this wall. I had initially sanded etc then applied a white acrylic eggshell emulsion but when I tried to create a geometric paint pattern using Frogtape, the tape pulled all the layers of paint off and peeled it badly back to plaster. I ended up scraping everything off and starting again using primer this time yet same peeling.

what is going wrong?
 

Ian

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Is the silver paint totally gone from the sanding? I wonder if Zinsser BIN may work better than Bullseye 123, as it's a shellac primer.
 
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Scrape off all loose paint. Then two coats of Screwfix No Nonsense Quick Dry Primer and Undercoat. Available in 750ml, 2.5Ltr & 5Ltr pots.
I used this on the bare plaster on my new extension, two coats and a lovely finish and a good foundation if you want to overcoat it with a coloured paint.
 
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I wonder why someone used "silver" paint in the first place.
Normally, an aluminium primer is used to stop wood resin breaking through or a mould problem.
Some surfaces are always going to be tricky.
One recommended method before using one of the Zinnser products, is to give the surface a good scrubbing with methylated spirits and a non-woven scourer pad. You'll need good ventilation.
I changed all the rotten yellowing oil-based "brilliant white" paintwork to water-based paint by doing the meths scrub.
Bullseye 123 two coats and two coats of a satin water based topcoat.
Frog tape is slightly better than the crappy beige masking tape, but not by much.
For delicate stuff, I only ever use Precision tape by Tesa. Expensive, but worth it. 3M (Scotch) do some delicate low tack tape for restoration work. You can get Tesa (pink) Precision at stores like Brewers.
Frog is too sticky.
 
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