Whole house water filter installation


S

SJ

I want to install a whole hose water filter.

In my unfinished basement the water comes in from the street main directly
below the the floor in a corner and the pipe runs up to just about the
ceiling before branching to the water heater.
I've got a shut-off valve on this piece running striaght up from the floor
to ceiling and I'm think that this would be the only place to put a water
filter.

As the water filter has input/output points in a horizontal fashion and the
pipe is vertical what is the best way to hook it up?
I guess I could sweat right angle bends in the pipe to come up around the
side of the filter and something similar on the output side. Seems that it
would look rather like a rats nest but there is no other way.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
SJ
 
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S

Speedy Jim

SJ said:
I want to install a whole hose water filter.

In my unfinished basement the water comes in from the street main directly
below the the floor in a corner and the pipe runs up to just about the
ceiling before branching to the water heater.
I've got a shut-off valve on this piece running striaght up from the floor
to ceiling and I'm think that this would be the only place to put a water
filter.

As the water filter has input/output points in a horizontal fashion and the
pipe is vertical what is the best way to hook it up?
I guess I could sweat right angle bends in the pipe to come up around the
side of the filter and something similar on the output side. Seems that it
would look rather like a rats nest but there is no other way.
Yes, put some EL's in it. Also, plan on a couple of ball valves
to isolate the filter during changing cartridges. With a thrid
valve you could add a bypass loop.

If you use much water for irrigation/sprinkling, all of that
useage will go thru your filter unless you can locate it further
downstream.

Check that the city water presure does not exceed the rating
of the cartridge housing.
Jim
 
E

Edwin Pawlowski

SJ said:
I want to install a whole hose water filter.
I guess I could sweat right angle bends in the pipe to come up around the
side of the filter and something similar on the output side. Seems that it
would look rather like a rats nest but there is no other way.
Worked for me. Elbow, filter, elbow up to a short length, elbow back to
main line, elbow back up.

Even if the filter has a shut off to use when changing the cartridge, put
another valve in anyway "just in case".
Ed
(e-mail address removed)
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
 
R

Rich

Gary Slusser said:
Good idea for the plumbing except for the extra valve. Now if I were
advising, I'd say buy a filter housing with the red pressure relief
button and VIH (valve in head) with a clear sump. I've sold them for 15
years and none have failed like many of those sold in big box stores and
supply houses. I'd also say not to buy any of those with the built in
by-pass. And I wouldn't plumb a by-pass due to creating dead ends for
bacteria to grow in.

But what is it and how much of it is in your water that you want to
remove? Hopefully it isn't chlorine, that is a very bad idea.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
Why is it a bad idea to remove chlorine? I am a fishkeeper and would
love to be able to remove chlorine from at least one outlet, since
fish and chlorine don't mix. And what could I use to do that?
-rich
 
C

Charlie Spitzer

Rich said:
"Gary Slusser" <[email protected]> wrote in message

Why is it a bad idea to remove chlorine? I am a fishkeeper and would
love to be able to remove chlorine from at least one outlet, since
fish and chlorine don't mix. And what could I use to do that?
-rich
an ro with a carbon block will remove chlorine and 95%+ of everything else.
an ro/di will remove everything.

an ro/di is usually recommended for salt water tanks.
 
V

v

Why is it a bad idea to remove chlorine? I am a fishkeeper and would
love to be able to remove chlorine from at least one outlet..
'Cause chlorine kills (or at least reduces) bad germs that can make
you sick.

Yours is that special case that somebody on the internet will always
come up with to attack any general statement.

Okay, you don't want chlorine for your fish. But you should still
have it in your pipes for other purposes.

BTW, I know there *IS* an alternate view on this, that chlorinated
water does have indirect negative health effects (nope, don't know the
details) when consumed, so if you feel that way drink bottled water.
But net overall chlorine seems a proven way to keep public water
supplies relatively safe from bacterial contamination.

-v.
 
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V

v

... I wouldn't plumb a by-pass due to creating dead ends for
bacteria to grow in.
I generally take Gary's advice on water matters, but I have a bypass,
glad to have it, and I don't see as big an issue as Gary does.
(Actually, the "bypass" goes straight thru, it is the filter that is
on a side loop.)

Its not like the inside of all one's pipes is actually scrubbed by a
sufficiently high speed flow. There is plenty of opportunity for
"slime" if it wants to grow. Many plumbing systems have blanked off
tees or whatever, or even the little anti-water hammer end that starts
out full of air but gets filled up time. Ever see a cut open street
main that's been in place a while, down to 1/2 its original size from
deposits. Every branch to a hydrant is a dead end, they are flushed
less frquently than my bypass is (every time I change the filter).

I like the bypass, I never lose service to the other household members
while changing the filter, and if I f' up the threads or something
while changing it, I would still have service to make repairs at my
leisure.

-v.
 

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