Where to obtain "high clay content soil"

Jay (archive)

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To solve a moisture issue involving soil saturation, a professional engineer is recommending regrading using high clay content soil. Where does one obtain high clay content soil? I'm located in NJ. Nobody seems to carry that type of soil.

Thanks,

J.
 

Duane Bozarth

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jay said:
To solve a moisture issue involving soil saturation, a professional engineer is recommending regrading using high clay content soil. Where does one obtain high clay content soil? I'm located in NJ. Nobody seems to carry that type of soil.
I'd ask the guy who made the recommendation first... :)
 

Jay (archive)

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<<I'd ask the guy who made the recommendation first... :)>>

He doesn't know for sure where to obtain it.

J.
 

SQLit

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jay said:
To solve a moisture issue involving soil saturation, a professional engineer is recommending regrading using high clay content soil. Where does one obtain high clay content soil? I'm located in NJ. Nobody seems to carry that type of soil.

Thanks,

J.
Clay soil forces the water to run off. If your engineer does not know where to locate the product. Get a new engineer or a solution that can be solved with the materials available locally.
 

Kathy

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jay said:
To solve a moisture issue involving soil
saturation, a professional engineer
is recommending regrading using high clay content soil. Where does one obtain high clay content soil? I'm located in NJ. Nobody seems to carry that type of soil.
My yard in south Jersey is full of it. Under about
8 inches of topsoil. There was a reason they named
the next town "Marlton".
 

Duane Bozarth

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jay said:
<<I'd ask the guy who made the recommendation first... :)>>

He doesn't know for sure where to obtain it.
Sounds like must be new graduate or something, then...hard to have much faith in somebody who makes a recommendation w/ no practical way to implement it... :(

I guess if he doesn't have back up plan is to start talking to local dirt contractors to see if there is a local supply...
 

Eric Tonks

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Used to live in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada where the clay is rock hard when dry or will sink a truck when wet and liquified. Mississauga used to be the home for several brick manufacturing plants, one still exists just a few miles north, and claims to be the largest brick making plant in North America.

When I first moved there, I tried growing potatoes. During the summer the soil cracks like a dried up swamp. When I dug the potatoes up, the few that managed to grow had followed the cracks and were long and flat. Onions grew above the soil, just their roots in the ground.

I can recall many years ago, a small hill was excavated for its clay, this was used to build berms around the fuel storage tanks at a local oil refinery. It was to contain any spill, leakage or tank rupture.
 

Jay (archive)

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The problem is moisture seepage into a foundation wall made of cinderblocks. During the winter frost heaving is a problem, causing the wall to get pushed inward gradually. Otherwise it causes efflorescence and some mold/mildew in one section.

The Professional Engineer says this is due to soil saturation. He says that the grading needs to be improved by raking up the mulch outside the wall, and applying around 2 to 4 inches of high clay content soil and making sure this slopes away from the building at a rate of at least 1 inch per foot, extending out to the lawn area. The goal is to prevent the water from saturating the soil immediately next to the building. By the way he says that mulch could be added onto of this, but the mulch isn't considered to be part of the grading.

J.
 

Jay (archive)

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He says that it could be acquired by a "bulk soil dealer" but did not give me any names of anyone who actually has the stuff.

J.
 

No

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My house - I'll trade for the sandy stuff you probably have any day.
 

Duane Bozarth

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jay said:
The problem is moisture seepage into a foundation wall made of cinderblocks. During the winter frost heaving is a problem, causing the wall to get pushed inward gradually. Otherwise it causes efflorescence and some mold/mildew in one section.

The Professional Engineer says this is due to soil saturation. He says that the grading needs to be improved by raking up the mulch outside the wall, and applying around 2 to 4 inches of high clay content soil and making sure this slopes away from the building at a rate of at least 1 inch per foot, extending out to the lawn area. The goal is to prevent the water from saturating the soil immediately next to the building. By the way he says that mulch could be added onto of this, but the mulch isn't considered to be part of the grading.
If you currently don't have adequate grade, I'd wager simply doing that w/ topsoil will solve the problem just as well. If it drains, it won't fully saturate. Also make sure all eaves are guttered and functioning correctly and all downspouts are directed away from the house. It's also possible there's no drainage at the bottom of the backfill or what was initially provided is blocked--was that issue addressed?
 

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