Sheared lightbulb in recessed socket


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R

RicodJour

George said:
Sure there is if the builder did it. If the
architect picked those, he was just nuts,
appearance over function.
Did what? Architect? Two sentences and at least three assumptions.
That's right the builder doesn't do those, but
what he does is fit what the buyer/designer wants
into the space available. You can pick all sorts
of fixtures that won't fit in a specific space
without having to go to some really screwy fixture
design or using a design in a place it is not
intended for.
Please review that last sentence and resubmit. It's unclear what you
are trying to say.

I'm looking at two recessed fixtures right now that are of the same
type that the OP mentions. They're old, have asbestos lining, and they
work. Why are they screwy?
Bull. Increasing the space for the fixture is as
simple as adding wood strips to the bottom of the
joists. Even you go to the extreme of maintaining
ceiling height by increasing the joist height, the
cost increase is negligible. Especially in the
types of ceilings that typically have those
fixtures. It would cost a bit more if you went
from standard stud lengths to a bit longer stud,
but you would be stupid to make each stud longer,
you would just add 2x4 or 2x6 plates to get the
height.
Who said the fixtures were put in when the building was going up? Or
were you assuming that they were added later and the entire ceiling
should have been dropped for a couple of fixtures? You make a lot of
assumptions. The OP gave no information at all on the building, type
of construction, location, nothing at all.

As far as increasing the joist depth and building height for those
fixtures not adding appreciably to the cost, it would affect the
amounts of insulation, wiring, sheathing and siding, drywall,
paint...you get the idea. It would add a boat load of money to the
cost.

By the way, adding that extra plate "solution" would be a hack. _That_
is a bad builder's choice. You'd be adding poorly insulated area to
the building, adding a substantial cost, and increasing the amount of
unnecessary "built-in" settlement. But, realistically, as I mentioned
in my previous post, no builder would do that for some recessed lights.
Sure he did, profit margin, inability to convince
the designer/home owner of the inappropriateness
of that design, inability to think up a rational
solution, etc.
Again, how do you know that the wrong decision was made in choosing
that fixture? Now you're assuming the builder was greedy, unable to
communicate and incompetent. You really have it in for the guy!

Maybe the fixtures are in a ceiling/attic floor - nothing unusual for
that to have been framed with 2x4s not that long ago and trusses
nowadays. If someone put down some sheathing on that attic floor,
something that wasn't intended to have storage, the joist depth would
be insufficient for the recessed fixture. Who made the mistake there?
The guy who designed the house, the guy who added the sheathing, or the
guy who installed the fixtures that fit? It's impossible to tell if it
was a mistake and whose fault it was as we have no information.
Not sure why you want to defend a mistake by the
builder. Builders make mistakes all the time.
WHAT mistake?! The OP is kvetching about a fixture that he is
unfamiliar with. No other information was given other than his guess
that the builder skimped on the depth of the floor joists. I pointed
out that the logic was skewed.

You're assuming that there was a mistake with no supporting
information. I'm old fashioned - I don't like condemning anyone
without some evidence.

In any event, the OP was asking for help on removing a broken bulb
base, and I think he got the what he was seeking. All's well.

R
 
T

Tony Hwang

HeyBub said:
The solutions for removing broken light-bulb bases are as varied as the
remedies for hiccups. All work to one degree or another.

Before you begin on the list, slather the socket with WD-40.
Hi,
I just turn off the power to the fixture and use needle nose plier and
then you know what. To prevent this kinda trouble I always use a dab of
Silicon dielectric grease on the bulb base.
Tony
 
B

Boward

Dude, did you get your bulb out yet?

A few ideas for you.

1. Get a plumbing test plug at the hardware store that will fit into a
light bulb base. They have an expandable rubber housing that is
adjusted with a nut on the top. I'm not sure if they make them that
small, however.

2. Epoxy and a fat bolt. Glue the threaded end of the bolt in the
socket and use a socket wrench on the bolt head when it's dry.

3. Get a wooden dowel the same diameter as the socket, cut it in half
lengthwise. Insert both halves into the socket and wedge open it with
a lag bolt inserted into the cut. Turn the dowel (not the bolt) Be
careful when wedging it with the bolt, you will be tightening the base
as you turn it. Also be careful you don't expand the socket out of
round.

4. Try using right angle snap ring plyers. You can find them in any
automotive store.

5. Mud over the recess hole with joint compound and light the room with
a desk lamp.
 
G

George E. Cawthon

RicodJour said:
Did what? Architect? Two sentences and at least three assumptions.




Please review that last sentence and resubmit. It's unclear what you
are trying to say.

I'm looking at two recessed fixtures right now that are of the same
type that the OP mentions. They're old, have asbestos lining, and they
work. Why are they screwy?




Who said the fixtures were put in when the building was going up? Or
were you assuming that they were added later and the entire ceiling
should have been dropped for a couple of fixtures? You make a lot of
assumptions. The OP gave no information at all on the building, type
of construction, location, nothing at all.

As far as increasing the joist depth and building height for those
fixtures not adding appreciably to the cost, it would affect the
amounts of insulation, wiring, sheathing and siding, drywall,
paint...you get the idea. It would add a boat load of money to the
cost.

By the way, adding that extra plate "solution" would be a hack. _That_
is a bad builder's choice. You'd be adding poorly insulated area to
the building, adding a substantial cost, and increasing the amount of
unnecessary "built-in" settlement. But, realistically, as I mentioned
in my previous post, no builder would do that for some recessed lights.




Again, how do you know that the wrong decision was made in choosing
that fixture? Now you're assuming the builder was greedy, unable to
communicate and incompetent. You really have it in for the guy!

Maybe the fixtures are in a ceiling/attic floor - nothing unusual for
that to have been framed with 2x4s not that long ago and trusses
nowadays. If someone put down some sheathing on that attic floor,
something that wasn't intended to have storage, the joist depth would
be insufficient for the recessed fixture. Who made the mistake there?
The guy who designed the house, the guy who added the sheathing, or the
guy who installed the fixtures that fit? It's impossible to tell if it
was a mistake and whose fault it was as we have no information.




WHAT mistake?! The OP is kvetching about a fixture that he is
unfamiliar with. No other information was given other than his guess
that the builder skimped on the depth of the floor joists. I pointed
out that the logic was skewed.

You're assuming that there was a mistake with no supporting
information. I'm old fashioned - I don't like condemning anyone
without some evidence.

In any event, the OP was asking for help on removing a broken bulb
base, and I think he got the what he was seeking. All's well.

R
Rather difficult to respond to a person who is so
dense, so I try to keep it short. But of course,
your response will be to say that it is unclear.

First, I used "if A then B" statements. You seem
to think those are assumptions. They are not they
are logic statements. I think you maybe one of
those people that can't get past the if statement.

You ask a lot of questions that indicate you have
failed to follow the thread. Individual responses
don't exist in a vacuum but require the thread.
For example you ask me why I assume the fixtures
went in when the building went up. Let me
simplify the thread. "A" suggests a reason that
builders use inconvenient designs. You say that
A's statement has no validity. I respond with
comments which are mostly about the design used by
the builder. What is it you don't understand?
Don't know what a "builder" is or does? Do you
think a builder and a remodeler are the same?

Like I said, dense.
 
T

Tekkie®

posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
1. Get a plumbing test plug at the hardware store that will fit into a
light bulb base. They have an expandable rubber housing that is
adjusted with a nut on the top. I'm not sure if they make them that
small, however.
Homies has something like this for guess what! Removing broken bulbs. And
where in the store would they be? Why in the electrical section...
 
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N

Nick Hull

kj said:
So the socket is *at right angles* from the axis of the housing.
(I'm sorry for not having mentioned this before; I honestly did
not realize that it was such an uncommon design.) Since the housing
is about 3 inches in diameter, there is no room to turn a pair of
pliers around 90 degrees to align it with the horizonal socket.

Hence my blathering about using a flexible shaft attached to a
handheld drill, since otherwise I see no way to exert a torque
around the required axis.
Epoxy a hex bolt into the lamp base, and use a socket ratchet wrench to
extract.
 
K

kj

In said:
Recessed fixtures with horizontal sockets are sometimes used in shallow
depth ceilings as they can fit in a 2x6 space. You need to figure out how to
remove the fixture, then the socket snaps off and would be easy to work on
That's what I needed to know. Originally it had look to me like
the socket was of a piece with the housing, but once I pried the
housing out (which took a while), I was able to pull out the socket
(which took another while). In comparison, getting the bulb thread
out was relatively easy after this, since it wasn't screwed in
tightly, just inaccessible until the socket was separated from the
housing.

I greatly appreciate all the helpful (and very clever) suggestions.
Now I feel like the broken lightbulb expert. :)

kj
 
K

kevin

This is great!

As of today, September 20, I count at least 32 separate posts from at
least 21 people.

And still the light bulb has not been changed.

So... how many usenet posts will it take?
 
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C

Chris Lewis

According to John Grabowski said:
I have had good luck shoving the end of a wooden broom handle up into the
light socket and turning counter-clockwise while maintaining pressure.
Other people have told me about using a potato, but I have never tried that.
Make sure that the power is off when attempting this.
Using a potato is mentioned in some DIY books. It works, but, I'd
be a bit worried about debris/moisture left behind.

There's a device manufactured that's specifically for this. It consists
of a medium-soft rubber "nose" shaped to fit the open end of the broken-off
base. I have one - it has three tips for various size bulbs. It's
about 2-4" long (depending on which adapter you use), and has a female thread
for a broom handle or extending pole on the other.

Largely intended for removing broken off bulbs from high ceilings.

I have no idea who made the thing. As I recall it was about $10. It's
all plastic, reasonably well made.

Overkill for the usual situation, it comes in handy when you have a cathedral
ceiling.
 

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