Roofing Question about water getting under Shingled Roof?


B

Bob

Having problems with water getting through the 30lb underlayment and
water damage showing on the soffit. Thought leakage would occur with 12
installed skylights but it's just the eaves and paper peeling off a
drywall version of soffit board. Only thing I could think of is that
rain is being blown between the flashing and shingles then finding it's
way down the plywood. Has anyone ever fixed this problem by running a
bead of caulking on top of the L-flashing?
 
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B

Bob

Randd01 said:
Are you sure it isn't coming from one of the skylights and running down the
inside of the roof dumping onto your soffits?
I'm absolutely positive that it's not coming from the skylights because
they are scattered in the middle of the roof. Water damage is only
occurring on soffits that face North, which is the direction of most
storms. Thinking of calling in a Roofer to hotmop that area but thought
about caulking the area above the L-Flashing and the portion of
shingles that overhang the roof by an inch. That idea, came after
thinking that rain might be forced through that gap by heavy wind.
Water is not coming down in buckets from the eaves but just enough
after three years to make the paper delaminate from a drywall core that
is specified to be weather resistant.

Thanks for your reply-
 
B

Bob

Art said:
Is the house brick? Is there a brick wall above the leaking roof?
It's a two-story, double wall house that is finished with Sto. Just the
thought of scaffolding up there to cut out and patch some drywall is
something out of a Steven King Novel.

Thanks for the reply-
 
T

thunder

I'm absolutely positive that it's not coming from the skylights because
they are scattered in the middle of the roof. Water damage is only
occurring on soffits that face North, which is the direction of most
storms. Thinking of calling in a Roofer to hotmop that area but thought
about caulking the area above the L-Flashing and the portion of shingles
that overhang the roof by an inch. That idea, came after thinking that
rain might be forced through that gap by heavy wind. Water is not coming
down in buckets from the eaves but just enough after three years to make
the paper delaminate from a drywall core that is specified to be weather
resistant.
Just a thought, I don't know where you are located, but what you are
describing is typical of an ice dam. Are you in a colder climate?
 
B

Bob

thunder said:
Just a thought, I don't know where you are located, but what you are
describing is typical of an ice dam. Are you in a colder climate?
I live on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, Aloha
 
B

Bob

Randd01 said:
Bob you could try roofing cement along that edge, it won't do any harm and that
would pinpoint the problem. Sometimes leaks are hard to find. I had one travel
on a roof ten feet before it showed any signs of a leak.
Just glad I didn't use Monier Tile, leaks on that kind of roofing is
like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Thought about roofing
cement but I have to tear off about 3 squares of Thickbutt and if a
cold application will not work, the fun and games will begin when I
have to repeat the process and start all over again at square one. A
Roofer is scheduled to stop by Monday, gave him leads on a couple jobs
in the past so hopefully I can drain him for some knowledge or get a
reasonable price.

Thanks for sticking with this thread-
 
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T

Ted

Having problems with water getting through the 30lb underlayment and
water damage showing on the soffit. Thought leakage would occur with 12
installed skylights but it's just the eaves and paper peeling off a
drywall version of soffit board. Only thing I could think of is that
rain is being blown between the flashing and shingles then finding it's
way down the plywood. Has anyone ever fixed this problem by running a
bead of caulking on top of the L-flashing?
The L flashing replaces the drip edge, or you have drip edge and
referring to it as L flashing. Does the shingles overhang this edge? If
not, they should. If this is the problem, several ways to approach.
First find out if this is the problem before I start blabbing away.
 
B

Bob

Ted said:
in message

The L flashing replaces the drip edge, or you have drip edge and
referring to it as L flashing. Does the shingles overhang this edge? If
not, they should. If this is the problem, several ways to approach.
First find out if this is the problem before I start blabbing away.
A drip edge sounds more like it and the shingles overhang one inch.
The flashing was basically a sheet of copper 6 inches wide, bent at a
ninety degree angle with a ~10 degree flair to deflect water on one
side. If I remember correctly, 30lb felt was used for underlayment and
the drip edge was applied on top of it. Is it possible for water to be
blown into the space between a drip edge and shingles?
 
T

Ted

"Bob" wrote in message
Ted wrote:
A drip edge sounds more like it and the shingles overhang one inch.
The flashing was basically a sheet of copper 6 inches wide, bent at a
ninety degree angle with a ~10 degree flair to deflect water on one
side. If I remember correctly, 30lb felt was used for underlayment and
the drip edge was applied on top of it. Is it possible for water to be
blown into the space between a drip edge and shingles?
Possible that the starter strips that are installed before the first
course of shingles are aligned with the first course? The first course
of shingles should be offset from the starter so the seams are not lined
up. Also, up here in the cold area, we put the water/ice shield over
the drip edge. Before water/ice guard came out, we installed the felt
after the drip edge on the eave edge, and after the felt up the rake
edge.

With a one inch overhang of shingles, I would doubt it would blow in,
but anything is possible.
 
T

Ted

Also, up here in the cold area, we put the water/ice shield over
the drip edge. Before water/ice guard came out, we installed the felt
after the drip edge on the eave edge, and after the felt up the rake
edge.
Drip edge down first on eave edge then underlayment. Up rakes the
underlayment down first then drip edge.
 
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