Riving Knife

[The Medway Handyman]

Looking for a new circ saw to replace my old B&D - which is a great saw, but
the fence doesn't tuck under the base, so it won't rip less that 40mm - and
is big & heavy.

Looking for a 160mm ish saw with a 50mm depth of cut & I notice that many
circ saws no longer have a riving knife fitted.

I've removed the one on my old B&D because its a PITA in many ways, but I
can always re fit it if I need to.

The purpose of a riving knife AFAIUI is to stop the cut closing up & binding
on the blade. So how do the saws without the RK overcome this - or don't
they. I was wondering why they hadn't fitted them?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[Mr Fuxit]

Looking for a new circ saw to replace my old B&D - which is a great saw, but
the fence doesn't tuck under the base, so it won't rip less that 40mm - and
is big & heavy.

Looking for a 160mm ish saw with a 50mm depth of cut & I notice that many
circ saws no longer have a riving knife fitted.

I've removed the one on my old B&D because its a PITA in many ways, but I
can always re fit it if I need to.

The purpose of a riving knife AFAIUI is to stop the cut closing up & binding
on the blade. So how do the saws without the RK overcome this - or don't
they. I was wondering why they hadn't fitted them?

--
Dave
The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The RK is really only needed when rip sawing natural timber, which
might close onto the blade. When cross cutting natural timber, or
cutting man-made board, there is almost no chance of the blade being
closed upon.

 

[Lurch]

Looking for a new circ saw to replace my old B&D - which is a great saw, but
the fence doesn't tuck under the base, so it won't rip less that 40mm - and
is big & heavy.

Looking for a 160mm ish saw with a 50mm depth of cut & I notice that many
circ saws no longer have a riving knife fitted.

I've removed the one on my old B&D because its a PITA in many ways, but I
can always re fit it if I need to.

Thought you were looking at Makitas? They all seem to come with a
riving knife AFAICS.

The purpose of a riving knife AFAIUI is to stop the cut closing up & binding
on the blade. So how do the saws without the RK overcome this - or don't
they. I was wondering why they hadn't fitted them?

Took mine off when I bought the saw nearly 10 years ago and have never
touched it since.

 

[meow2222]

@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> mused:

Thought you were looking at Makitas? They all seem to come with a
riving knife AFAICS.

Took mine off when I bought the saw nearly 10 years ago and have never
touched it since.

If the saw jams at the front, no harm done, as the wood is pulled
against the baseplate, so nothing goes anywhere. If the saw jams at
the back, the circ saw is thrown upwards at the user. So I kept my
riving knife.


NT

 

[meow2222]

If the saw jams at the front, no harm done, as the wood is pulled
against the baseplate, so nothing goes anywhere. If the saw jams at
the back, the circ saw is thrown upwards at the user. So I kept my
riving knife.

NT

they also protect against forceful upthrust caused by pushing the saw
to the side, which is an easy thing to unintentionally do.


NT

 

[Lurch]

they also protect against forceful upthrust caused by pushing the saw
to the side, which is an easy thing to unintentionally do.

I just keep a tight grip.

Most of my work is awkward to do with a riving knife in the way, and
the stuff where a riving knife wouldn't be in the way is usually
chipbord of some sort which generally wouldn't close in in the blade
as you cut it.

 

[John Rumm]

I still am, but I can't find out if the fence tucks under the base. And the

I am surprised you can't modify your B&D to do this... my one will rip
much closer that 40mm. I will do some photos of it shortly and post
them, you may be able to see a way of copying its layout,

Makita doesn't seem to come with a case, which is a PITA and adds to the
cost.

Some do:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Circular Saws&product=976

In fact there are quite a few on this page with cases:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Circular Saws

(The Hitachi saws are *really* nice IME as well)

But I wondered why they now make them without - given all the safety regs
these days?

Probably because for the majority of users it is not usually a risk
factor. Most cuts made are in man made boards. I have never seen
ordinary softwood close up on cutting. Its only when you get into less
common species, or very deep cuts (issue only on bigger saws obviously)
that the potential for this problem increases.

 

[meow2222]

If you can't concentrate, stay away from power tools altogether

lol

 

[The Medway Handyman]

Which manufacturers? I looked at all of the major quality brands
and all seem to have riving knives. I certainly wouldn't buy or use
a portable circular saw without. They certainly can kick back
otherwise and if the timing is wrong and you are too close, the spring
return on the guard may not have completely closed off the blade.....

Tha last one I noticed it on (or not on) was a MacAlister in B&Q but I have
seen a 'major brand' without a RK - might have been Skil?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[The Medway Handyman]

It was - Skil Orca
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Circular Saws

....and the Hitachi C7SB2



--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[The Medway Handyman]

I am surprised you can't modify your B&D to do this... my one will rip
much closer that 40mm. I will do some photos of it shortly and post
them, you may be able to see a way of copying its layout,


Some do:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Circular Saws&product=976

In fact there are quite a few on this page with cases:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Circular Saws

Thanks John, but it's not just the fence, the B&D is far too big & heavy.
I'm looking for a 160mm saw with a 50mm depth of cut really.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[The Medway Handyman]

Festool TS55 is those sizes, comes with a riving knife and in a
Systainer case. It's rather nice to use as well.

Bloody well should be at £250 + !!!

I'd want an operator thrown in at that price!


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[Ian White]

If you can't concentrate, stay away from power tools altogether

50 years ago, it was almost expected that a full-time sawyer would not
finish his career with a full set of fingers; or if he didn't, it was
entirely his own fault.

Such attitudes are not acceptable now; but even back then, the one
safety precaution they *did* insist on was a riving knife.

 

[dom]

I've got the Skil Orca, it's a very reasonable saw at it's price
point. As you say, it's designed without a riving knife. The manual
says that when held properly the operator should be able to control
kick backs, should one occur. It comes with a neat, compact case (many
power tool cases are overly large for what they hold IMO), though the
saw fits in a peculiar canted over position that isn't obvious. 90
quid at www.axminster.co.uk

For a little more money, I think CC manufacturers are bundling guide
rail systems - very useful for repetitive panel work.

 

[The Medway Handyman]

I've got the Skil Orca, it's a very reasonable saw at it's price
point. As you say, it's designed without a riving knife. The manual
says that when held properly the operator should be able to control
kick backs, should one occur. It comes with a neat, compact case (many
power tool cases are overly large for what they hold IMO), though the
saw fits in a peculiar canted over position that isn't obvious. 90
quid at www.axminster.co.uk

Thanks, but it's a 190mm machine. I'm looking for a 160mm.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[dom]

Thanks, but it's a 190mm machine. I'm looking for a 160mm.

Why the smaller blade? I gave my old 140mm skilsaw away recently, as
it was never used now I have the 190mm one.

 

[The Medway Handyman]

Why the smaller blade? I gave my old 140mm skilsaw away recently, as
it was never used now I have the 190mm one.

Size & weight really. I don't need the extra depth of cut. My B&D is a
huge beast, cumbersome and the case takes up a load of space in the van.

BTW anyone know anything about the Wolf Sapphire WCS160S ?

http://tinyurl.com/ytbbsk

Seems like someone is just using the brand name - seems too cheap to be any
good.



--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[dom]

Size & weight really. I don't need the extra depth of cut. My B&D is a
huge beast, cumbersome and the case takes up a load of space in the van.

Fair enough. I did consider hanging on to mine for just that reason,
but I found in practice I'd habitually use the larger one. Those
little cordless ones look like they'd be cool for details, but I
understand they suck the batteries very quickly.

 

[The Medway Handyman]

Fair enough. I did consider hanging on to mine for just that reason,
but I found in practice I'd habitually use the larger one. Those
little cordless ones look like they'd be cool for details, but I
understand they suck the batteries very quickly.

Indeed they do - or some do. I have an SIP 18v jobby with 2 x 1.9a/h
batteries & it is rather disapointing.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

 

[meow2222]

(e-mail address removed) wrote:

Indeed they do - or some do. I have an SIP 18v jobby with 2 x 1.9a/h
batteries & it is rather disapointing.

I just assumed all ate batteries, circular sawing is a relatively
power hungry app after all. Or do people have ones that dont?


NT