Oven not lighting up, need help.


M

Mikepier

Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
 
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N

N8N

 Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen,  does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven  knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing  I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem.  I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate
 
M

Mikepier

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working.  Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right? Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.
 
M

mm

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right?
No, I think you're wrong.

When the thermocouple is cold, you have to hold in the knob until it
heats up enough to keep the gas on. What temp would that be? Well,
lower than any of the temps on the oven control. I think on my
electric oven the lowest temp I can set it for is maybe 200 degrees.
So maybe 190 degrees. But actually, 15 seconds isn't enough to get
that hot. I think it only has to get so hot that it couldn't be the
weather, so it can't go on without someone turning it on. Maybe in
some places it gets to be 120 or 130 in the summer, so anything above
140 might be what they use. Or 150, they have to allow leeway if the
part changes and opens at a lower than intended temp.

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

**I just picked that out of the air.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?
Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.
The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.
 
M

Mikepier

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.
That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.
Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425.  Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325.  How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad.  Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?
No, I don't think so.
The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad.  In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds.   So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.-
I never heard or seen that kind of stove.
 
T

Tony Hwang

Mikepier said:
Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.
 
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M

Mikepier

Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes
 
M

mm

That still does not explain how it re-ignites.
Good point! I guess I'm living in pilot light land.
Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.


No, I don't think so.

I never heard or seen that kind of stove.
Patent Pending.

When I get it on the market, I'll probably be spamming this group.
I'm also looking for a buzzer supplier, if anyone is interested.
 
T

Tony Hwang

Mikepier said:
There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes
Hmmm,
You said whatever controls valve is bad. Think logic.
 
H

hr(bob) hofmann

 Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen,  does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven  knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing  I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem.  I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
Have you contacted the manufacturer, or do you know someone that has a
similar stove, or do you know someone who knows someone who is a
repair person???
 
M

Mikepier

Have you contacted the manufacturer, or do you know someone that has a
similar stove, or do you know someone who knows someone who is a
repair person???- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
All the manufacturer tells me is that I need to get an authorized
person to look at it, they are not very helpful. I have googled this
stove online, and it seems a lot of people are not happy with Avanti's
products.
I've also searched under "oven ignition systems" and came across this
excellent link:
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_range_ignition_systems.shtml

but not once does it mention the type of ignition system this oven
has. How wierd is that?
I've fixed enough stoves in to know how they work, but this stove has
me wondering if it even works right from day 1.
 
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H

hr(bob) hofmann

How about a little duct tape to hold the knob in?

My *guess* is there should be a pilot that stays lit while the oven
control is on. Should be visible where it is when the control is off -
maybe look with a mirror. There would be a separate small gas tube from
the control to the pilot. If you find a location, is there a pilot flame
at that location when the burner is lit? I believe real old oven
controls had a pilot adjustment screw behind the control knob.
That would make the most sense.
 
B

bud--

Mikepier said:
That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.
How about a little duct tape to hold the knob in?

My *guess* is there should be a pilot that stays lit while the oven
control is on. Should be visible where it is when the control is off -
maybe look with a mirror. There would be a separate small gas tube from
the control to the pilot. If you find a location, is there a pilot flame
at that location when the burner is lit? I believe real old oven
controls had a pilot adjustment screw behind the control knob.
 
M

mm

That would make the most sense.

*************************

It does, but he says the broiler goes out. Broilers are usually just full
on all the time.
Good point. It's been so long since I had a gas oven. If it never
turns off it doesn't need a way to relight itself. So why is it
turning off. I think he has the manual. Does it refer to any of htis
in the manual.


(The electric oven has a separate element for the "broiler" at the top
of the oven. The instructions say not to shut the door all the way
when broiling, and it took me many years to figure out why. I thought
it would get so hot it would damage something if the oven door was
shut, but now I think it will get so hot, the thermostat willt turn
the broiler off. I should look for schematic.(
 
H

hr(bob) hofmann

Good point.  It's been so long since I had a gas oven.   If it never
turns off it doesn't need a way to relight itself.  So why is it
turning off.  I think he has the manual.  Does it refer to any of htis
in the manual.

(The electric oven has a separate element for the "broiler" at the top
of the oven. The instructions say not to shut the door all the way
when broiling, and it took me many years to figure out why.  I thought
it would get so hot it would damage something if the oven door was
shut, but now I think it will get so hot, the thermostat willt turn
the broiler off.  I should look for schematic.(- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
On our olden days gas stove, the broiler was at the "hot" end of the
dial for the oven temperature. It basically turned on the flame full
time and the food was under the flame to broil it. I don't remember
how the initial flame was lighted.
 
M

mm

On our olden days gas stove, the broiler was at the "hot" end of the
dial for the oven temperature. It basically turned on the flame full
time and the food was under the flame to broil it. I don't remember
how the initial flame was lighted.
We had ovens like that too. I guess two such ovens in our first two
houses, plus again in NYC in the 70's and 80's. Rentals don't usually
come with the fanciest applieances.

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)
 
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B

Bob Villa

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

I remember the same type (I think we had a Caloric) "sucking" the
flame off the match.

bob_v
 
B

Bob Villa

after turning the burner on.   Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally.   This the really "green" way to
do it.  No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light.   Just one match to light the broiler
or oven.   This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

 (The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

I remember the same type (I think we had a Caloric) "sucking" the
flame off the match.

bob_v
When I was a wee child I remember gram-ma using the stove-top
burners. There was a button for a flame-thrower-like device you lit
with a match...it would light the burner so your hand would not be
close to the flare-up of the burner. (We've all had similar
experiences manually lighting or LP grills)

bob_v
 
M

mm

For some reason the hole seemed bigger last night. It was a half or
5/8" hole. :)

And Ed, my mother was no athlete and 55 years old, but she had no
trouble using the broiler tray that was 8 inches above the floor.
(After she was age 55, I don't remember what kind of broiler she had.)
When I was a wee child I remember gram-ma using the stove-top
burners. There was a button for a flame-thrower-like device you lit
with a match...it would light the burner so your hand would not be
close to the flare-up of the burner. (We've all had similar
experiences manually lighting or LP grills)

bob_v
They had pilot lights for top burners much earlier or maybe just in
many more stoves. I guess because people use the oven or broiler
usually only once a day, and the top burners are used for everything.
Making coffee. There were no electric coffee makers.
Cooking breakfast, lunch, some or all of dinner, soup, vegetables,
potatoes, custard.....loads of things.

Our stoves had two burners on each side, with a pilot light in between
each pair. Some stoves had 4 burners close together, with one pilot
light for all four. Saved 50% of the pilot light gas. But the cost
of the gas was very low, I think. My mother worried about leaving
lights on but the pilot light didn't bother her. Although that mght
have been because she had no way to turn it off.
 
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J

JIMMIE

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
 I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right? Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I dont think it is suppose to go all the way out until you turn it
off. There may be some kind of adjustment for this or the valve that
controls it is bad.

Jimmie
 
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