Red said:
Utility galvanized metal roofing for barns, sheds, etc. The 5v runs
$15 per 8' sheet whereas the 2.5" corrugated runs about $10. What are
the pros & cons for each type and is it worth the price difference?
The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? Predrilling maybe?
It really all depends on what your end use is. If you visit Fabral's site,
you will probably get their spiel about their 11 coatings they put on metal.
That's a little hard to believe.
I was a steel erection contractor for nearly a decade, and did a ton of
carport repairs, but that was before Fabral came out. We used similar from
ASC Pacific and others.
Let me tell you what. I've seen twenty year old metal that you can't find a
rust spot on. I have had piles of odd pieces around here that have sat one
sheet on top of another for a year or two, and when separated, not a rust
spot to be found. So, if you do go with the good stuff, you get your money
worth. Around my place, I have approximately 2,000 sf of roofing coverings
in the form of carports, work area covers, building end lean to's and
others. I use premium materials, and don't regret it one bit.
We get hellacious winds here, and I engineered my rear awning (35' x 16')
for 105 mph winds. Two neighbors called me crazy. But then we had a
hellacious storm, and mine was sitting there, and theirs were spread over
four zip codes. Mine also had 1/3 cubic yard of concrete in Sonotube on
each of the three outrigger legs. Portable mixers carry one cubic yard, and
there were three posts, so for $100, that was a no brainer.
With most wavy corrugated, unless you have absolutely flat mating surfaces,
you start out with a problem trying to fasten the U of one of the valleys to
another surface. The light corrugated is just that, light, and once it
starts flapping, the failure mode is something like flapping, tearing, and
disintegrating. And the material is thin to start with.
The trouble with this stuff is that for small jobs, it's hardly worth it to
spend as much as it costs to do it right. But on the other hand, it doesn't
hold up well, and you end up doing it more than once.
How big of an area are you talking about?
I am going out tomorrow to hopefully finish my 1200 sf roof that I put over
two 40' containers. 16' inbetween them. I built the joists myself. It's
all of Fabral Mighty Rib. I tend to overkill, but then I did enough
insurance repair jobs of bad carport work to know what works and what don't.
Check into what some Fabral would cost you. Your local steel supplier
probably has it. Use the 14 ga. purlins, and 26 or 24 ga. sheets. 3" x 3"
x .120" square tube steel posts. Get the good self tap with sealer
fasteners, available cheaply on ebay. Find and buy the tek stitchers to
join sheet metal to sheet metal.
If it's just a throw it up lean to, that's one thing. If you want to do it
right, never have it blow down, and NEVER have to paint it, use the good
stuff.
I'll take some pics tomorrow and post on flickr.
Steve
