Machine enamels - any recommendations?

[Dave H.]

Knowing what practical sorts are likely to visit this group, I'd like
recommendations for paint for my new project, a Holbrook Model C lathe -
originally it was a shade of Institutional Green, which I may choose not to
repeat on grounds of taste (or lack thereof)...

At present my plan is to strip the original paint back to bare metal
(apparently Mr Muscle oven cleaner is a good choice for this, with less
health risks than Nitromors etc.) and clean with thinners, apply a coat of
bare-metal primer, fill any obvious pits (Isopon or similar) and sand,
before applying further primer and the top (colour) coats with further
sanding in between.

I've heard scary stories about 2-pack (e.g. epoxy and other) paints and
hazardous chemicals, although I'd be brushing rather than spraying if I were
to go for such, on the assuption that it's the vapourisation of the
catalysts etc. that leads to problems - Ideally I'd avoid them if there's
something else that's suitable.

I've seen a few favourable comments on "Combi Color" enamels and associated
primers, some quite negative ones on Smoothrite etc. and not many on
Tekaloid (most of the sites that discuss machine painting seem to be
transpondian, with different brand names!), has anyone any opinions on which
would be most suitable? The poor thing's likely to have spanners and
chuck-keys etc. dropped on it from time to time, coolant (probably neat
cutting oil rather than soluble) and smoking swarf all over it, so
durability's a major factor (I'd quite like it to look good too, though!)

Any rebuilders or restorers of old iron have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave H.

 

[Andy Dingley]

Knowing what practical sorts are likely to visit this group, I'd like
recommendations for paint for my new project,

I've had good results with this:
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/t/TORMACHEN/
Admittedly chosen because I was already buying £40 quid of stuff from
them and wanted something to take it over the £50 free shipping. Good
range of colours and it's around half the price of comparable
products. Use their magic thinners with it.

Johnstones machine paint is good too, and reasonably easy to find.
I've bought it from our local farmer's merchant.

The stuff's never cheap, and often comes in 5l cans that are more than
you want and one hell of a price! It makes the regular eBay trade in
Myford touch-up cans of 250ml look affordable, and at least the
stuff's good.


For lathes you can get away with nearly anything. Mills that are
spraying cutting fluid around are a much more severe test of paint.

 

[Cicero]

Knowing what practical sorts are likely to visit this group, I'd like
recommendations for paint for my new project, a Holbrook Model C lathe -
originally it was a shade of Institutional Green, which I may choose not
to repeat on grounds of taste (or lack thereof)...

At present my plan is to strip the original paint back to bare metal
(apparently Mr Muscle oven cleaner is a good choice for this, with less
health risks than Nitromors etc.) and clean with thinners, apply a coat
of bare-metal primer, fill any obvious pits (Isopon or similar) and
sand, before applying further primer and the top (colour) coats with
further sanding in between.

I've heard scary stories about 2-pack (e.g. epoxy and other) paints and
hazardous chemicals, although I'd be brushing rather than spraying if I
were to go for such, on the assuption that it's the vapourisation of the
catalysts etc. that leads to problems - Ideally I'd avoid them if
there's something else that's suitable.

I've seen a few favourable comments on "Combi Color" enamels and
associated primers, some quite negative ones on Smoothrite etc. and not
many on Tekaloid (most of the sites that discuss machine painting seem
to be transpondian, with different brand names!), has anyone any
opinions on which would be most suitable? The poor thing's likely to
have spanners and chuck-keys etc. dropped on it from time to time,
coolant (probably neat cutting oil rather than soluble) and smoking
swarf all over it, so durability's a major factor (I'd quite like it to
look good too, though!)

Any rebuilders or restorers of old iron have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave H.

==============================================================================

I've never heard of Mr.Muscle being used as a paint stripper but a bit of
'googling' suggests that it works best if the item is wrapped in plastic
which might not be practicable for your purpose.

I recently discovered this company: www.natech.co.uk and tried their
paint stripper. It works well (a bit slowly) and is very clean, fume-free
and odourless. I found it a good alternative to Nitromors - works as well
and is much safer.

I've used 'Tekaloid' for brush painting cars and it really is an
excellent, durable finish so it would probably give the deep solid finish
you want.

Cic.

 

[mikecb1]

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I've never heard of Mr.Muscle being used as a paint stripper but a bit of
'googling' suggests that it works best if the item is wrapped in plastic
which might not be practicable for your purpose.

I recently discovered this company:www.natech.co.ukand tried their
paint stripper. It works well (a bit slowly) and is very clean, fume-free
and odourless. I found it a good alternative to Nitromors - works as well
and is much safer.

I've used 'Tekaloid' for brush painting cars and it really is an
excellent, durable finish so it would probably give the deep solid finish
you want.

Cic.

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Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
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I can endorse the use of "tractor enamels". I've used one called
Tractol (made by Ameron International) which was recommended to me,
and which is available from some farm equipment retailers. I bought
mine from a local distributor found using Googol. The last time I
bought some (3 or 4 years ago) it was about £8/litre. It's quite slow
drying, so you need to find somewhere reasonably dust-free to work.
You also need to leave it for a few days to fully harden. It gives a
high gloss finish which is tough and oil resistant. Can be brush-
painted or thinned and sprayed. If you brush-apply with a decent
brush, then because it's slow-drying the brush marks pretty much
disappear. Ferguson Grey is a close match to the grey used on older
Myford lathes.

Another tip is to use automotive spray putty as undercoat. You can
buy this in large aerosols from the bigger car accessory shops (but
don't confuse it with ordinairy spray primer or spray filler, which
are not the same thing at all). Spray putty goes on in thick coats,
sticks really well to most surfaces including bare metal, and is good
for covering up surface imperfections, small casting marks etc. Very
easy to rub down with wet and dry paper (used wet) to give a smooth
surface for gloss paint. Not that it matters particularly, but the
product I use is bright yellow!

HTH
Mike

 

[john]

Knowing what practical sorts are likely to visit this group, I'd like
recommendations for paint for my new project, a Holbrook Model C lathe -
originally it was a shade of Institutional Green, which I may choose not to
repeat on grounds of taste (or lack thereof)...

At present my plan is to strip the original paint back to bare metal
(apparently Mr Muscle oven cleaner is a good choice for this, with less
health risks than Nitromors etc.) and clean with thinners, apply a coat of
bare-metal primer, fill any obvious pits (Isopon or similar) and sand,
before applying further primer and the top (colour) coats with further
sanding in between.

I've heard scary stories about 2-pack (e.g. epoxy and other) paints and
hazardous chemicals, although I'd be brushing rather than spraying if I were
to go for such, on the assuption that it's the vapourisation of the
catalysts etc. that leads to problems - Ideally I'd avoid them if there's
something else that's suitable.

I've seen a few favourable comments on "Combi Color" enamels and associated
primers, some quite negative ones on Smoothrite etc. and not many on
Tekaloid (most of the sites that discuss machine painting seem to be
transpondian, with different brand names!), has anyone any opinions on which
would be most suitable? The poor thing's likely to have spanners and
chuck-keys etc. dropped on it from time to time, coolant (probably neat
cutting oil rather than soluble) and smoking swarf all over it, so
durability's a major factor (I'd quite like it to look good too, though!)

Any rebuilders or restorers of old iron have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave H.

Never came across it previously but the stuff was going really cheap
(the cans were rusty) so I bought a bootload of ex-military, 2 pack,
white epoxy, from Anchor Surplus in Nottingham. Turned out to be the
bees knees for coating just about everything from kitchen woodwork to
tooling to cars and to outdoor use.
The paint mixes up like thin cream so minimum prep' is needed and one
painted coat does the job. It self levels with no sinking due to
solvent evaporation, is extremely durable and areas I did ten years
ago still haven't yellowed.
Had been willy-nilly using the stuff for 5 years before reading that
the nice Almond smell it gave off was actually Cyanide and according
to elf and safety I should be dead as I didn't use certified distance
breathing kit, gloves, disposable overalls, blah, blah, ect, ect, ect
ect.
Bollocks to 'em. It's all used up now now and I'm looking for some
more.
I would have suggested using a basecoat colour of your choice and
finish with a hard 2 pack Polyester lacquer (for cars, Ebay) but it's
pricey and yet again elf and safety are determined to scare the hell
out of casual users.

 

[Toby]

At present my plan is to strip the original paint back to bare metal
(apparently Mr Muscle oven cleaner is a good choice for this, with less
health risks than Nitromors etc.) and clean with thinners, >
Thanks,
Dave H.

Dave

We recently spent too much time/money trying different paint strippers
to get all the chipped gloss paint off all the internal woodwork in
the house. Most of them are rubbish, except Wickes own brand Paint
and Varnish Stripper. Much better than all the other more expensive
products. Needs to be used with care - burns a bit on skin and the
fumes are a bit strong but really does wonders on the paint. Comes in
a screw top tin and can be applied with a brush.

Somehow some got splashed on a commercially painted small petrol tank
which you'd expect to have a pretty tough paint and it took that off
far too easily.

Might be worth a try,

cheers

Toby

 

[1501]

Use Tractor Enamel or Highway paint (not the stuff that's used in lines,
but for plant and equipment).

It would be OK if he wants it red, yellow or white!

 

[Steve R.]

It would be OK if he wants it red, yellow or white!

A red lathe won't show the blood!


Steve R.

 

[Tim Lamb]

In message

It would be OK if he wants it red, yellow or white!

Ford do a fetching shade of blue or perhaps Claas green? Oh no. That's
what he is covering up!

regards

 

[Dave H.]

A red lathe won't show the blood!

My thoughts exactly - Fire Engine Red (RAL 3020) appeals to me, the base
will be in dark (holly leaf?) green though, so *serious* bloodflow will be
noticeable by contrast...

As it looks like I'll need to fill the castings a bit (a few blowholes, some
"cleaning up" scrapes and snipes from when it came out of the sand), what
would be a suitable filler to take Tractol / Tekaloid metal primer over the
top? I don't want to have to scrape it all off again if the paint and primer
bubble after a reaction to the filler!

Thanks all for the input,

Dave H.

 

[RBnDFW]

...

My thoughts exactly - Fire Engine Red (RAL 3020) appeals to me, the base
will be in dark (holly leaf?) green though, so *serious* bloodflow will be
noticeable by contrast...

As it looks like I'll need to fill the castings a bit (a few blowholes, some
"cleaning up" scrapes and snipes from when it came out of the sand), what
would be a suitable filler to take Tractol / Tekaloid metal primer over the
top? I don't want to have to scrape it all off again if the paint and primer
bubble after a reaction to the filler!

Thanks all for the input,

The factory solution was basically autobody filler aka Bondo (tm)
The Burkes had a deep layer of it all over the castings
Pinhole filler in the tube unless it's got big voids.

 

[mikecb1]

...


My thoughts exactly - Fire Engine Red (RAL 3020) appeals to me, the base
will be in dark (holly leaf?) green though, so *serious* bloodflow will be
noticeable by contrast...

As it looks like I'll need to fill the castings a bit (a few blowholes, some
"cleaning up" scrapes and snipes from when it came out of the sand), what
would be a suitable filler to take Tractol / Tekaloid metal primer over the
top? I don't want to have to scrape it all off again if the paint and primer
bubble after a reaction to the filler!

Thanks all for the input,

Dave H.

For biggish flaws I use car body filler (P38), rubbed down with
production paper. Follow up with spray putty, then rub down with wet
and dry paper used wet. Apply Tractol, and your final finish will be
A1.

Mike

 

[Tim Lamb]

No, it has to be RAL 1007 JCB Yellow.

Hearty endorsement for tractor paint. I made a riddle bucket for the
JCB 3CX and gave it a single coat of tractor paint with no undercoat -
sieved about 300 tons of mixed earth and rubble, and the vast majority
of the paint is still on - only the paint on the central bars having
been erroded.

Photo or full description, please.

regards

 

[Dave]

...

My thoughts exactly - Fire Engine Red (RAL 3020) appeals to me, the base
will be in dark (holly leaf?) green though, so *serious* bloodflow will be
noticeable by contrast...

Anyone red/green colour blind wouldn't notice it though
And there are a lot of us about :-(

Dave

 

[Tim Lamb]

http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s294/awemawson/Riddle Bucket/

Right. Dry soil and lots of bucket shaking?

My biggest spare backacter bucket is only 2'6" but I'll remember the
idea.
Thanks.

I like the trencher. We successfully used something similar to bury a
long run of electric supply cable here. The possible GSHP job would be
in water at 18" so I plan to mole the pipe.

regards

 

[Dave H.]

Anyone red/green colour blind wouldn't notice it though
And there are a lot of us about :-(

Dave

That's the beauty of the plan - red blood over green paint would absorb
pretty much all of the light falling on it, so you'd see a dark streak and
wonder what it was!

A CB rig doctor I knew once upon a time was red/green colour blind, which
made identifying electronic components by their colour codes pretty tricky -
he had a pair of glasses made with one red, one green lens (like 3-D
glasses, really), by closing each eye in turn he could work out whether a
colour was reddish or greenish )

Dave H.

 

[Dave]

...

That's the beauty of the plan - red blood over green paint would absorb
pretty much all of the light falling on it, so you'd see a dark streak and
wonder what it was!

A CB rig doctor I knew once upon a time was red/green colour blind, which
made identifying electronic components by their colour codes pretty tricky -
he had a pair of glasses made with one red, one green lens (like 3-D
glasses, really), by closing each eye in turn he could work out whether a
colour was reddish or greenish )

I'm not as bad as that. When I first started dabbling in radio and
electronics, the resistors were large enough for me to read the value
bands. Now they have got so tiny, I have to get my magnifying glass out
so my eye gets as much colour information as possible. When I look at a
strand of sewing cotton, I can't tell much more than if it is light or
dark. Give me the real of cotton and I am fine.

Dave