lawn mower repair question


P

PaulD

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
 
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B

Bryan Scholtes

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower.  He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out.  Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem?  Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that.  I might be willing to
clean the fuel line.  I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
Not sure if your B&S is the same as my 6.5HP Tecumseh in this respect,
but bad gas and/or a loose or unbalanced blade will do this to mine. A
bit of Seafoam in some new gas usually clears it up in a few run-
hours.
 
S

Stormin Mormon

Sounds like a fuel problem of some kind. My guess include
water in the gas, or bad gasket betwen the carb and the
engine.

If you're so inclined, tip the mower on its side. Remove the
float bowl, and dump whatever is in the float bowl. Tip the
mower back up, and let the gas drain for a second.

Wipe the gas off the deck and let it dry before you try to
start the engine. It is possible to light a lawn mower on
fire, yes, I've done it.

While you're working, snug the bolts that hold the carb to
the engine.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5
HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on
the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly
peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem?
Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to
get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be
willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on
this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
 
R

RogerT

PaulD said:
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

This is a long shot, but I once had a lawn mower that did that. Somehow, I
think the air filter was completely clogged with dirt so the air intake
wasn't working correctly. I removed the air filter and would start and
continue to run, unlike before I took out the filter. I then cleaned the
air filter and it worked okay.
 
O

Oren

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
Before you go into working on the mower engine, try some starting
fluid. Remove the air filter and spray the throat tube of the carb. It
may be just something sticking -- choke butterfly or something small.

I did this for a neighbor and things worked out well.

The best spray is: Valvoline® Extra Strength Starting Fluid from the
auto parts supply. Just a few dollars...

<http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57>

Follow instructions on the can. It may take a few tries.

The Seafoam product mentioned is a good idea for the fuel tank...

YMMV...
 
D

despen

PaulD said:
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
Pressing bulb supplies gas, so it starts.
Sounds like the normal gas delivery system doesn't work since it dies out.

Google found a lot of possibilities.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Try these Google search terms:

briggs and stratton 6.5hp starts then stalls

-or-

We've got a nice lawnmower repair place near by...maybe there's one
in your area.
 
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B

Bob Villa

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower.  He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out.  Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem?  Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that.  I might be willing to
clean the fuel line.  I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
If it has a paper air filter and it gets soaked with oil it will
starve for air. See if it continues to run with the filter removed. If
it has a carb bowl try replacing the brass screw the holds the bowl
on. That way you can change it while holding the bowl in place.
(You'll need to catch the draining gas in something!) . The is a large
and a small hole in the bowl screw that meters the gas. The small hole
is most likely plugged.
 
C

clare

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
Most likely plugged fuel jets or water in the float bowl. The
carburetor will need to be cleaned - which in this case will LIKELY
require removaland dissassembly. You MIGHT get away with putting some
SeaFoam treatment in the gas, letting it sit for a while, and then
coaxing it to run with the primer until it finally draws gas through
the jets - but it is LIKELY a waste of time and effort (as well as
SeaFoam) in this case. If you can remove the float bowl and clean it
out, as well as the jet that is part of the "bolt", THEN running sea
foam through it when it starts and runs poorly will probably finish
the job and this is easier than disconnecting all the governor
linkages etc and getting everything back together properly if you are
not really familliar with the setup.

It almost definitely will NOT have a fuel filter - and it is almost
certainly a carburetor problem.
 
C

clare

This is a long shot, but I once had a lawn mower that did that. Somehow, I
think the air filter was completely clogged with dirt so the air intake
wasn't working correctly. I removed the air filter and would start and
continue to run, unlike before I took out the filter. I then cleaned the
air filter and it worked okay.
Good thing to check anyway - but generally in THAT situation, the
primer won't make it run because it's already too rich.
 
C

clare

Before you go into working on the mower engine, try some starting
fluid. Remove the air filter and spray the throat tube of the carb. It
may be just something sticking -- choke butterfly or something small.

I did this for a neighbor and things worked out well.

The best spray is: Valvoline® Extra Strength Starting Fluid from the
auto parts supply. Just a few dollars...

<http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57>

Follow instructions on the can. It may take a few tries.

The Seafoam product mentioned is a good idea for the fuel tank...

YMMV...
Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.
 
H

Hank

 Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-
I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank <~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"
 
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C

clare

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank <~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.
 
H

Hank

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.
Mechanics don't prevent problems, they fix and advise about problems.
Preventing carb problems is the users responsibilty by keeping dirt
out and keeping fresh gas running thru it. When properly maintained,
no one should need Sea Foam. So, why pay the additional expense?

Hank <~~~~ anybody on the internet can call themselves a mechanic
 
C

clare

Mechanics don't prevent problems, they fix and advise about problems.
Preventing carb problems is the users responsibilty by keeping dirt
out and keeping fresh gas running thru it. When properly maintained,
no one should need Sea Foam. So, why pay the additional expense?

Hank <~~~~ anybody on the internet can call themselves a mechanic
Like the Fram commercial used to say - "you can pay me now, or you
can pay me tater". If you have an engine that is prone to carburetor
trouble - as many on this list have indicated (by the fact of HAVING
problems), running Sea Foam or an equivalent on a regular (not
necessarily constant) basis makes a LOT of sense. To me as the
mechanic as well as the owner.
Fixing crapped up carbs is NOT an easy way to make money. Not as easy
as selling the customer a new carb (which many shops do,) because if
they "fix" the carb now, and 6 months later it screws up again it's
THEIR problem, according to the customer. If they replace the Briggs
carb and it goes bad, it's Briggs' problem - Good luck.

If, as a mechanic, I clean the carb and tell the customer to use Sea
Foam in every second tank, and the customer does not, and the carb
goes bad - guess what??? It's the CUSTOMER's problem - not mine.
If he uses it, the chance of having another problem goes WAYYYYY down.
 
H

Hank

 Like the Fram commercial used to say - "you can pay me now, or you
can pay me tater".  If you have an engine that is prone to carburetor
trouble - as many on this list have indicated (by the fact of HAVING
problems), running Sea Foam or an equivalent on a regular (not
necessarily constant) basis makes a LOT of sense. To me as the
mechanic as well as the owner.
Fixing crapped up carbs is NOT an easy way to make money. Not as easy
as selling the customer a new carb (which many shops do,) because if
they "fix" the carb now, and 6 months later it screws up again it's
THEIR problem, according to the customer. If they replace the Briggs
carb and it goes bad, it's Briggs' problem - Good luck.

If, as a mechanic, I clean the carb and tell the customer to use Sea
Foam in every second tank, and the customer does not, and the carb
goes bad - guess what??? It's the CUSTOMER's problem - not mine.
If he uses it, the chance of having another problem goes WAYYYYY down.-
I can't remember the last time I replaced a carb. The mechanic still
has to remove the carb to replace it and then wait for the new one ot
come in. It is less time consuming to just clean the old one. Time is
money. When cleaned properly, they should be as good as new. When
maintained properly, they should last way more than 6 months without
any additives.

If Seafoam is such a good thing, why don't the manufacturers
reccommend it?

Hank <~~~~ not a parts changer
 
H

Hank

My engines just keep going and going, and I've never used such a product.If I
run engines dry before storage, I never have a problem.-
I've never had a problem either. It amazes me how many cars sit around
on car lots for months and never seem to need any additives. Do you
think it is because they start them up and move them occasionally? :)

Hank
 
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L

LouB

Hank said:
I've never had a problem either. It amazes me how many cars sit around
on car lots for months and never seem to need any additives. Do you
think it is because they start them up and move them occasionally? :)

Hank
Yes, many (most) lots start cars regularly.
 
J

jamesgangnc

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
You must have stock in seafoam. I never use it Small engines were
designed to work fine on just gas.

Since it starts by priming it the gas is fine.

The carb is messed up. Most B&S use a conventional float bowl style
carb. Either the gas is not able to enter the venturi via the jets
from the float bowl or the float valve is preventing the gas from
filling the float bowl. You might be able to pull the float bowl and
clean it out without removing the carb. The float and it's needle
valve may be removable with just the bowl off. You can spray some
carb cleaner up the jets if the bowl comes off. Also you can check
and see that gas comes out when the float is down. Otherwise I'd take
the carb off. Occasionally you can unstick a stuck float by banging a
bit on the side of the carb with something like a small piece of wood
or the handle of a tool so I'll try that on no gas situations.
 
C

clare

I've never had a problem either. It amazes me how many cars sit around
on car lots for months and never seem to need any additives. Do you
think it is because they start them up and move them occasionally? :)

Hank
No, it is because automotive fuel systems are SEALED, and fuel
injection systems very effectively limit the contact between fuel and
air.

There is NO evaporation, NO moisture attraction, and NO oxidation in
an emission controlled, fuel injected, automobile.



All cars built in the last 25 years are also built with E10 fuel in
consideration - no parts that are not compatible with E10 are used.
 
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C

clare

Yes, many (most) lots start cars regularly.
But that's not the main reason. See my previous post re: emmission
controlled fuel injected vehicles.
 

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