installing flush valve


M

MikeL

I had a toilet tank that needed a new flush valve, so I picked one up
at Lowes, a universal plumb pak....no matter what I did, everytime I
put the tank back on, a small leak happened around the nut of the
flush valve on the bottom of the tank. I even filled it at the kitchen
sink and watched to see if it would leak, but when installed, a few
hours later it was leaking on the floor. I had another tank just like
the first and put a new flush valve on it and lo and behold, a few
hours later, it leaked also...for the life of me I really don't know
what I was doing wrong. These were toilets in a mobile home...a 'oso'
model(?) Don't know if I was tightening the nut too tight or didn't
have it tight enough...any thoughts?
I finally purchased a new tank and put it on, no problems, as of right
now.

BTW...on the tank to bowl gasket, does the gasket have to fit over the
threads and the nut? or just the threads only?
thanks, Mike
 
M

Michael B

With that plastic nut on plastic threads of the valve, I use
teflon tape on the threads so I can comfortably snug it up
more than I would have been able to do otherwise.
Never had one to leak. For all I know, the teflon tape
may be having the secondary effect of sealing the leak
instead of just letting me tighten it up.
 
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L

LSMFT

MikeL said:
I had a toilet tank that needed a new flush valve, so I picked one up
at Lowes, a universal plumb pak....no matter what I did, everytime I
put the tank back on, a small leak happened around the nut of the
flush valve on the bottom of the tank. I even filled it at the kitchen
sink and watched to see if it would leak, but when installed, a few
hours later it was leaking on the floor. I had another tank just like
the first and put a new flush valve on it and lo and behold, a few
hours later, it leaked also...for the life of me I really don't know
what I was doing wrong. These were toilets in a mobile home...a 'oso'
model(?) Don't know if I was tightening the nut too tight or didn't
have it tight enough...any thoughts?
I finally purchased a new tank and put it on, no problems, as of right
now.

BTW...on the tank to bowl gasket, does the gasket have to fit over the
threads and the nut? or just the threads only?
thanks, Mike
In the first place you don't remove the tank to replace a flush valve.
 
H

hallerb

In the first place you don't remove the tank to replace a flush valve.

--
LSMFT

Simple job, assist the assistant of the physicist.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
i use silicone seal on all the leak areas if i take the tank off......
 
M

Michael B

i use silicone seal on all the leak areas if i take the tank off......
There should not be any leak areas.
And feel free to give me your full name so that I can have
a name to curse as the idiot that used silicone when good
workmanship would have been adequate and appropriate.

BTW, a lot of people put the tank on wrong and cause their
own problems.
 
M

Molly Brown

I had a toilet tank that needed a new flush valve, so I picked one up
at Lowes, a universal plumb pak....no matter what I did, everytime I
put the tank back on, a small leak happened around the nut of the
flush valve on the bottom of the tank. I even filled it at the kitchen
sink and watched to see if it would leak, but when installed, a few
hours later it was leaking on the floor. I had another tank just like
the first and put a new flush valve on it and lo and behold, a few
hours later, it leaked also...for the life of me I really don't know
what I was doing wrong. These were toilets in a mobile home...a 'oso'
model(?)  Don't know if I was tightening the nut too tight or didn't
have it tight enough...any thoughts?
I finally purchased a new tank and put it on, no problems, as of right
now.

BTW...on the tank to bowl gasket, does the gasket have to fit over the
threads and the nut? or just the threads only?
thanks, Mike
Was it leaking from around the flush valve nut or the tank to bowl
gasket?
Was there a gasket on the flush valve (not the tank to bowl gasket but
the other one) and did you install it and if so did you tighten the
nut too tight to cause it to squeeze out from under the flush valve?
Did you check the porcelain around the flush valve nut to make sure
there were no nicks or cracks since porcelain isn’t always cast
perfectly?
Did you slightly tilt the tank after installation that caused the tank
to bowl gasket to bind which would leave a gap and cause a leak?
Could the leak be coming from around the tank bolts and did you use a
flashlight to make sure?
Did you thoroughly clean the bolt threads so that they do not bind?
 
M

Michael B

Could the leak be coming from around the tank bolts and did you use a
flashlight to make sure?
In my opinion, this is not something that needs to be checked
with a flashlight.
Proper way of starting the process is to have the flapper valve
installed, as well as the flush valve. Then it's time to put in the
tank bolts.
For each bolt, first a metal washer, then a rubber washer.
The bolt goes through the hole. Then a rubber washer, and
another metal one. Then the narrow nut that is included.
This means that the two rubber washers can be tightened
up seriously tight without being concerned about breaking the
porcelain.
And then the tank can be set on a couple of bricks and filled
with water.
And sit a while.
If the flapper is going to leak, you can see that.
If the fill valve is going to leak, you can see it.
And if the bolts are going to leak, which is very unlikely, you
can correct it.

If a person wanted to, they could carry the filled tank around
before putting it into place.

Then set it into position, snug up the wing nuts onto the
tank bolts after putting on the last metal washers and it's
ready to be connected to the water supply after already
knowing that it's not going to leak.

Doesn't everyone do it this way? As a matter of fact, no.

Too bad for them.
 
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M

MikeL

In the first place you don't remove the tank to replace a flush valve.
you must be thinking of the 'fluidmaster' or the ballcock...no need to
remove tank for that replacement
 
T

Tony Miklos

I had a toilet tank that needed a new flush valve, so I picked one up
at Lowes, a universal plumb pak....no matter what I did, everytime I
put the tank back on, a small leak happened around the nut of the
flush valve on the bottom of the tank. I even filled it at the kitchen
sink and watched to see if it would leak, but when installed, a few
hours later it was leaking on the floor. I had another tank just like
the first and put a new flush valve on it and lo and behold, a few
hours later, it leaked also...for the life of me I really don't know
what I was doing wrong. These were toilets in a mobile home...a 'oso'
model(?) Don't know if I was tightening the nut too tight or didn't
have it tight enough...any thoughts?
I finally purchased a new tank and put it on, no problems, as of right
now.

BTW...on the tank to bowl gasket, does the gasket have to fit over the
threads and the nut? or just the threads only?
thanks, Mike
I'm picturing the big gasket under the big nut. Lots of situations like
this tell you to put the paper gasket on top on the rubber gasket. The
paper/cardboard gasket slips and keeps the nut from twisting the rubber
gasket and making it leak. Not sure how well you can picture that, but
if there was a shiny piece of paper the same size as the rubber gasket,
put it on before the nut.
 
C

clare

In the first place you don't remove the tank to replace a flush valve.
If you are replacing the entire flush valve on an American Standard
throne you DEFINITELY need to remove the tank, as the nut that holds
it on is between the tank and the bowl.
If you are only replacing the water control unit, or the flapper
portion of the flush valve you can do it while assembled.
 
C

clare

There should not be any leak areas.
And feel free to give me your full name so that I can have
a name to curse as the idiot that used silicone when good
workmanship would have been adequate and appropriate.

BTW, a lot of people put the tank on wrong and cause their
own problems.
A lot of people have no idea what the printed paper that comes in the
box is for, either. Or they don't know how to read or interpret the
instructions printed on them. You wouldn't believe how many WRONG ways
people can discover to install something as simple as a flush-contro
valve kit!!
 
R

Red Green

(e-mail address removed) wrote in
A lot of people have no idea what the printed paper that comes in the
box is for, either. Or they don't know how to read or interpret the
instructions printed on them. You wouldn't believe how many WRONG ways
people can discover to install something as simple as a flush-contro
valve kit!!
Doesn't even matter sometimes. Like:

Instructions: "Hand tighten plastic nut."
DIY'r thought: [That's for idiots that have no tools. I have tools...that
even say "pro" on them] <creak creak creak>. Ahhh, one more turn.]
 
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H

hallerb

There should not be any leak areas.
And feel free to give me your full name so that I can have
a name to curse as the idiot that used silicone when good
workmanship would have been adequate and appropriate.

BTW, a lot of people put the tank on wrong and cause their
own problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
well blame a pro plumber who I called, since i couldnt get the leak
stopped. he siliconed it and charged me 150 bucks.

silicone seal comes off easy, so its no big problem
 

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