installing flush valve

Discussion in 'Home Repair' started by MikeL, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. MikeL

    MikeL Guest

    I had a toilet tank that needed a new flush valve, so I picked one up
    at Lowes, a universal plumb pak....no matter what I did, everytime I
    put the tank back on, a small leak happened around the nut of the
    flush valve on the bottom of the tank. I even filled it at the kitchen
    sink and watched to see if it would leak, but when installed, a few
    hours later it was leaking on the floor. I had another tank just like
    the first and put a new flush valve on it and lo and behold, a few
    hours later, it leaked also...for the life of me I really don't know
    what I was doing wrong. These were toilets in a mobile home...a 'oso'
    model(?) Don't know if I was tightening the nut too tight or didn't
    have it tight enough...any thoughts?
    I finally purchased a new tank and put it on, no problems, as of right
    now.

    BTW...on the tank to bowl gasket, does the gasket have to fit over the
    threads and the nut? or just the threads only?
    thanks, Mike
     
    MikeL, Jan 16, 2011
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. MikeL

    Michael B Guest

    With that plastic nut on plastic threads of the valve, I use
    teflon tape on the threads so I can comfortably snug it up
    more than I would have been able to do otherwise.
    Never had one to leak. For all I know, the teflon tape
    may be having the secondary effect of sealing the leak
    instead of just letting me tighten it up.
     
    Michael B, Jan 16, 2011
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. MikeL

    LSMFT Guest

    In the first place you don't remove the tank to replace a flush valve.
     
    LSMFT, Jan 16, 2011
    #3
  4. MikeL

    hallerb Guest

    i use silicone seal on all the leak areas if i take the tank off......
     
    hallerb, Jan 16, 2011
    #4
  5. MikeL

    Michael B Guest

    There should not be any leak areas.
    And feel free to give me your full name so that I can have
    a name to curse as the idiot that used silicone when good
    workmanship would have been adequate and appropriate.

    BTW, a lot of people put the tank on wrong and cause their
    own problems.
     
    Michael B, Jan 16, 2011
    #5
  6. MikeL

    Molly Brown Guest

    Was it leaking from around the flush valve nut or the tank to bowl
    gasket?
    Was there a gasket on the flush valve (not the tank to bowl gasket but
    the other one) and did you install it and if so did you tighten the
    nut too tight to cause it to squeeze out from under the flush valve?
    Did you check the porcelain around the flush valve nut to make sure
    there were no nicks or cracks since porcelain isn’t always cast
    perfectly?
    Did you slightly tilt the tank after installation that caused the tank
    to bowl gasket to bind which would leave a gap and cause a leak?
    Could the leak be coming from around the tank bolts and did you use a
    flashlight to make sure?
    Did you thoroughly clean the bolt threads so that they do not bind?
     
    Molly Brown, Jan 16, 2011
    #6
  7. MikeL

    Michael B Guest

    In my opinion, this is not something that needs to be checked
    with a flashlight.
    Proper way of starting the process is to have the flapper valve
    installed, as well as the flush valve. Then it's time to put in the
    tank bolts.
    For each bolt, first a metal washer, then a rubber washer.
    The bolt goes through the hole. Then a rubber washer, and
    another metal one. Then the narrow nut that is included.
    This means that the two rubber washers can be tightened
    up seriously tight without being concerned about breaking the
    porcelain.
    And then the tank can be set on a couple of bricks and filled
    with water.
    And sit a while.
    If the flapper is going to leak, you can see that.
    If the fill valve is going to leak, you can see it.
    And if the bolts are going to leak, which is very unlikely, you
    can correct it.

    If a person wanted to, they could carry the filled tank around
    before putting it into place.

    Then set it into position, snug up the wing nuts onto the
    tank bolts after putting on the last metal washers and it's
    ready to be connected to the water supply after already
    knowing that it's not going to leak.

    Doesn't everyone do it this way? As a matter of fact, no.

    Too bad for them.
     
    Michael B, Jan 16, 2011
    #7
  8. MikeL

    MikeL Guest

    you must be thinking of the 'fluidmaster' or the ballcock...no need to
    remove tank for that replacement
     
    MikeL, Jan 16, 2011
    #8
  9. MikeL

    Tony Miklos Guest

    I'm picturing the big gasket under the big nut. Lots of situations like
    this tell you to put the paper gasket on top on the rubber gasket. The
    paper/cardboard gasket slips and keeps the nut from twisting the rubber
    gasket and making it leak. Not sure how well you can picture that, but
    if there was a shiny piece of paper the same size as the rubber gasket,
    put it on before the nut.
     
    Tony Miklos, Jan 16, 2011
    #9
  10. MikeL

    clare Guest

    If you are replacing the entire flush valve on an American Standard
    throne you DEFINITELY need to remove the tank, as the nut that holds
    it on is between the tank and the bowl.
    If you are only replacing the water control unit, or the flapper
    portion of the flush valve you can do it while assembled.
     
    clare, Jan 16, 2011
    #10
  11. MikeL

    clare Guest

    A lot of people have no idea what the printed paper that comes in the
    box is for, either. Or they don't know how to read or interpret the
    instructions printed on them. You wouldn't believe how many WRONG ways
    people can discover to install something as simple as a flush-contro
    valve kit!!
     
    clare, Jan 16, 2011
    #11
  12. MikeL

    Red Green Guest

    wrote in
    Doesn't even matter sometimes. Like:

    Instructions: "Hand tighten plastic nut."
    DIY'r thought: [That's for idiots that have no tools. I have tools...that
    even say "pro" on them] <creak creak creak>. Ahhh, one more turn.]
     
    Red Green, Jan 16, 2011
    #12
  13. MikeL

    hallerb Guest

    well blame a pro plumber who I called, since i couldnt get the leak
    stopped. he siliconed it and charged me 150 bucks.

    silicone seal comes off easy, so its no big problem
     
    hallerb, Jan 16, 2011
    #13
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.