2
21blackswan
is there anyway to access the garage door,
from the front driveway,
without having the garage door opener?
marc
from the front driveway,
without having the garage door opener?
marc
D
Danny D.
There are videos out there for how to release the safety
pull tab by sticking something thin inside at the top.
It's easier if the garage door has glass windows at
the top.
Why do you ask? Are you planning a few burglaries?
If so, I get 10% ...
2
21blackswan
thanks,
I was wondering about my [own] garage/house security
I also wondered how important it was to lock
the door in the garage, going into the house,
which I do at night only [don't tell anyone]
no glass windows on my garage door
marc
O
Oren
_Would-be thief gets head trapped under garage door_
Nine (9) hours :-\
<http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7413256n>
2
21blackswan
good point,
there are many windows more vulnerable, than the garage
marc
T
Tony Hwang
Hi,
I wonder if it is possible to reverse install the latch assembly
B4 opener goes up in place. Then they can't unlatch it that easily like
in the Video.
U
Unquestionably Confused
With an attached garage, you pretty much have to view the interior door
(locked or unlocked) as secondary security. Once the garage has been
entered, how hard is it for a burglar to close the garage door and beat
the living daylights out of that interior access door?
Hardening your garage door (equipped with an opener) is very easy to do.
The lightest weight nylon wire tie you can find will make it all but
impossible for a thief to enter the garage using that vulnerability
shown on the videos offered in this thread while at the same time
allowing you to snap the tie easily by using the pull cord release in
the manner intended by the manufacturer.
We reside in the country and have neighbors (we all watch out for each
other) but our detached garage & shop is always locked, tied in to the
home's burglar/fire alarm. Regardless, I used the nylon tie and when we
go on an extended trip away from home, I always "lock out" the garage
door remote control. The keypad function is NOT disabled and the steel
access door with a "hardened" frame and latch area is secured ALWAYS by
a deadbolt with digital keypad.
The best you can hope for is to make it difficult. You cannot make it
impossible<g>
U
Unquestionably Confused
Why bother? Just get the lightest weight nylon wire tie you can find
and loop it through the latch. Latch will work perfectly as intended
with just a slightly harder pull on the hand cord but there's no way
they will get it sprung using a coat hanger, etc. unless you have a
window in the door panel in which case they are probably going to be
able to foil just about ANY countermeasure short of welding the release
and making it totally inoperable.
When I first saw one of those videos I was surprised that it was that
easy. When I got home I reached into my supply of nylon ties and cured
the problem in 1 minute.
T
Tony Hwang
Hi.Unquestionably said:
Our interior door is steel with dead lock bolt(per fire code) and
alarmed. We have a big dog in the back yard. I tried to gimmick the
opener latch like that in the video but our garage door would not yield
enough gap to shove in the coat hanger wire hook.
I agree, make it difficult. Best we can do.
U
Unquestionably Confused
Good point. Our door is high and a short radius which make it difficult
to gain enough room to get a stiff wire in there but not impossible.
Thinking about it, you can pretty much prevent it altogether if you
adjust the closing force "correctly" i.e. have that arm holding - with
great force - the top panel of the door hard against the door header.
Unless you really have it tightened down as above, you can slip/pound a
wedge in between the top panel and header and get a bit of work room for
the wire.
G
gregz
On my separate garage, I don't think there is any space on top. No flexibleDanny D. said:
moulding. But, my regular door is unlocked, so anyone can go right in.
Greg
U
Unquestionably Confused
LOL! Guess this thread is not for you then.
Kinda like the guy running around like a chicken with his head cut off
trying to figure out how to get back into his car as he's locked himself
out.
He's really panic stricken and it's way out of proportion to a simple
thing like locking his keys in the car.
Finally somebody calls him on it: "Settle down, it's no big deal.
Worst case we'll call a locksmith and while it may take some time for
him to get here and cost you some money, he'll get you in with no damage
to the car!"
But you don't understand! It's about to rain and the top is down on my
convertible!
D
DerbyDad03
The success of this method may depend on how the door is installed.Danny D. said:
I just tried this at my house and there does not appear to be a way to get
the correct angle on the hanger to reach the release. When my garage door
is closed, the top overlaps the bottom of the header by almost 2 inches.
When you push the hanger past the weather stripping it is forced straight
up towards the ceiling.
I even went inside and manually hooked the hanger onto the release, bending
the hanger into the correct shape. I went back outside and pulled the
release to open the door. That worked fine. But then, leaving the hanger
bent at the correct angle, I wasn't able to get it to reach the release
when I tried it fresh from the outside. It kept just going straight up.
I even tried going in sort of sideways and spinning to hanger towards the
release but I still couldn't get the angle right. For that method to even
have worked, the hanger would already have to have been bent exactly right.
Perhaps via trial and error a burglar could make it work, but it wouldn't
be done in 6 seconds like the video showed.
C
clare
They would have to find mine first. It's not in the center of the
door
C
clare
A small battery operated drill solves the problem of the direction of
the hanger.
D
DerbyDad03
As would a hammer applied to one of the windows. I was merely pointing out the very simple, very quick, very quiet method showed in the video might not work with certain door installations.
just tried this at my house and there does not appear to be a way to get
the correct angle on the hanger to reach the release. When my garage door
is closed, the top overlaps the bottom of the header by almost 2 inches.
When you push the hanger past the weather stripping it is forced straight
up towards the ceiling.
I even went inside and manually hooked the hanger onto the release, bending
the hanger into the correct shape. I went back outside and pulled the
release to open the door. That worked fine. But then, leaving the hanger
bent at the correct angle, I wasn't able to get it to reach the release
when I tried it fresh from the outside. It kept just going straight up.
I even tried going in sort of sideways and spinning to hanger towards the
release but I still couldn't get the angle right. For that method to even
have worked, the hanger would already have to have been bent exactly right.
Perhaps via trial and error a burglar could make it work, but it wouldn't
be done in 6 seconds like the video showed. Finaly I decided to invest in Dako Windows.
the correct angle on the hanger to reach the release. When my garage door
is closed, the top overlaps the bottom of the header by almost 2 inches.
When you push the hanger past the weather stripping it is forced straight
up towards the ceiling.
I even went inside and manually hooked the hanger onto the release, bending
the hanger into the correct shape. I went back outside and pulled the
release to open the door. That worked fine. But then, leaving the hanger
bent at the correct angle, I wasn't able to get it to reach the release
when I tried it fresh from the outside. It kept just going straight up.
I even tried going in sort of sideways and spinning to hanger towards the
release but I still couldn't get the angle right. For that method to even
have worked, the hanger would already have to have been bent exactly right.
Perhaps via trial and error a burglar could make it work, but it wouldn't
be done in 6 seconds like the video showed. Finaly I decided to invest in Dako Windows.
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- Country
I've been working on o/h doors for many years now. The "wire" thing won't work.
You've one of 2 choices:
1) Two 48" pry bars and two 48" long by 2" angle iron. Use the angle on the bottom edge to prevent point load onto the bottom panel, pry up to force the brake to slip. Pry up (x2) at even thirds across the horizontal axis of the door, that is, at approx 4' and 12'.
2) Cut the bottom panel enough to get in, call door company to replace bottom panel.
Sounds bad, I know. Perhaps smashing a window in the garage is cheaper than the door's bottom panel....I don't know.....you'd have to price it.
You've one of 2 choices:
1) Two 48" pry bars and two 48" long by 2" angle iron. Use the angle on the bottom edge to prevent point load onto the bottom panel, pry up to force the brake to slip. Pry up (x2) at even thirds across the horizontal axis of the door, that is, at approx 4' and 12'.
2) Cut the bottom panel enough to get in, call door company to replace bottom panel.
Sounds bad, I know. Perhaps smashing a window in the garage is cheaper than the door's bottom panel....I don't know.....you'd have to price it.