P
Peter
The standard lines from pool builders is that 90% of the heat loss
from a pool is via the surface, only 10% into the ground.
It turns out this originates from some website in Florida, and is
probably true in Florida if you have a pool at +30C and totally open,
no cover.
The rest of the time it is bollocks and is propagated by pool builders
who are too thick and lazy to bother with insulation. The whole UK
pool business works on the principle of the rolls royce buyer: if you
need to know the mpg you obviously cannot afford one.
So they stick a 40kW boiler in there and waste your money.
I have been operating two outdoor pools over 10 years, and done some
very careful measurements. They are quite an eye opener.
Case 1:
12x5m concrete pool, depth from 1m to 2.5m
NO insulation anywhere.
Cover is 6mm air-bubble PVC (standard £400 sort of thing).
Heat loss is around 10kW for a 20C water-air difference, and about 2/3
of this is into the ground, through the pool sides and bottom and the
pipes which are traditionally buried directly in the ground. The
air/ground loss split was determined by laying heavy insulation on top
of the surface (2 layers of industrial 1/2" thick bubblepack) and
seeing how much difference this makes - not a lot.
This pool is expensive to heat... you would spend £5000/year at
current gas prices heating it all year round, and that is assuming you
have one of those inflatable domes on it for much of the year.
Case 2:
10x4m concrete pool, depth from 1m to 1.7m
Insulated with 50mm Sellotex around sides, no insulation underneath
(there doesn't appear to be a suitable material which would carry the
weight). One idiot pool builder walked off the job because he didn't
want to be bothered. Most others wouldn't even quote. Eventually I
found one. It's really easy of course.
Cover is a 'solar' slatted cover (£13000).
Heat loss is around 2kW for a 20C water-air difference, and about 3/4
of this is into the ground.
The division of this loss is interesting.
There are 4 pipes coming out of the pool, and one going back in. All
were insulated with fibreglass wool but only crudely. For half their
run they are bare but laying in an air-filled buried duct. So not
directly in soil anywhere. But the pipes are exposed in the plant
room, where the ambient is just that (due to big vents for a heat
pump).
About 1/2 of the loss is via the pipes! IOW, if I stop the filtration
pump at night, the total heat lost from the pool is halved. One
achieves significant savings by closing all but one of the outlet
pipes.
Of course the expensive solar cover makes a hugh contribution; around
15-20kW from the 40m2 area in any sunlight. But one pays for that in
the purchase price.
The thing is that insulation costs only a few hundred quid on the
purchase price... for that you could insulate ALL the pipework with
100mm Armaflex too.
from a pool is via the surface, only 10% into the ground.
It turns out this originates from some website in Florida, and is
probably true in Florida if you have a pool at +30C and totally open,
no cover.
The rest of the time it is bollocks and is propagated by pool builders
who are too thick and lazy to bother with insulation. The whole UK
pool business works on the principle of the rolls royce buyer: if you
need to know the mpg you obviously cannot afford one.
So they stick a 40kW boiler in there and waste your money.
I have been operating two outdoor pools over 10 years, and done some
very careful measurements. They are quite an eye opener.
Case 1:
12x5m concrete pool, depth from 1m to 2.5m
NO insulation anywhere.
Cover is 6mm air-bubble PVC (standard £400 sort of thing).
Heat loss is around 10kW for a 20C water-air difference, and about 2/3
of this is into the ground, through the pool sides and bottom and the
pipes which are traditionally buried directly in the ground. The
air/ground loss split was determined by laying heavy insulation on top
of the surface (2 layers of industrial 1/2" thick bubblepack) and
seeing how much difference this makes - not a lot.
This pool is expensive to heat... you would spend £5000/year at
current gas prices heating it all year round, and that is assuming you
have one of those inflatable domes on it for much of the year.
Case 2:
10x4m concrete pool, depth from 1m to 1.7m
Insulated with 50mm Sellotex around sides, no insulation underneath
(there doesn't appear to be a suitable material which would carry the
weight). One idiot pool builder walked off the job because he didn't
want to be bothered. Most others wouldn't even quote. Eventually I
found one. It's really easy of course.
Cover is a 'solar' slatted cover (£13000).
Heat loss is around 2kW for a 20C water-air difference, and about 3/4
of this is into the ground.
The division of this loss is interesting.
There are 4 pipes coming out of the pool, and one going back in. All
were insulated with fibreglass wool but only crudely. For half their
run they are bare but laying in an air-filled buried duct. So not
directly in soil anywhere. But the pipes are exposed in the plant
room, where the ambient is just that (due to big vents for a heat
pump).
About 1/2 of the loss is via the pipes! IOW, if I stop the filtration
pump at night, the total heat lost from the pool is halved. One
achieves significant savings by closing all but one of the outlet
pipes.
Of course the expensive solar cover makes a hugh contribution; around
15-20kW from the 40m2 area in any sunlight. But one pays for that in
the purchase price.
The thing is that insulation costs only a few hundred quid on the
purchase price... for that you could insulate ALL the pipework with
100mm Armaflex too.