Filling a large gap in wood?

[T i m]

Hi All,

For reasons I won't go into now I've been left to try to deal with a
bathroom floor and to make it ready to have some vinyl laid (round
'Mum's').

A 6mm ply sheet has been laid but is a <insert varying distance here
(averaging 20 mm probably)> gap from the wall / skirting [1] and I'm
either going to have to take it all up and replace with a sheet that's
actually cut to fir that actual bathroom (?) or try to fill said gap
(so ~20mm x 6mm by ~8m) between the edge of the ply and the wall /
tiles with something?

As it is such a narrow (and varying width) strip I'. thinking of
applying some sort of liquid 'filler' (rather than an infill strip of
some sort) and it probably needs to be sufficiently stable /
stuck_to_the_floorboards so it doesn't lift when the flooring is stuck
down?

I was thinking something along the lines of Gripfill but I know the
real (solvent) stuff might be a bugger to get flat, and smooth and
something like a cement, might not be strong enough in that thickness
to stay down / together?

So, I'm really keen to know if there is anything that would be ideal
for this purpose please as I really don't want to be taking the new
toilet and hand basin up again (but actually want to).

Cheers, T i m

[1] I'm going to take the one length of conventional skirting that has
been 'fitted' away and carry the tiles down to the floor on the two
walls that are tiled. I was thinking of using some uPVC (5mm x
~60mm?) as a trim round the bottom of the shower tray (to hide the
concrete base) and carrying it round as a mini skirting on the walls?

https://www.angelplastics.co.uk/Images/Images_Large/60mm arch ww.jpg

(or in black to match her cabinet work top).

 

[Andy Dingley]

A 6mm ply sheet has been laid but is a <insert varying distance here
(averaging 20 mm probably)>  gap from the wall

Assuming I had matching spare ply to hand, I'd saw a strip to fill the
gap.

Quite possibly I'd saw the existing piece _narrower_, such that my
infill was about 2" wide. That's easier to work with than a really
narrow strip, especially if it's tapering.

I wouldn't mess with gripfill or liquids. I'd buy more ply than do
that.

Another way is to just buy more ply and do it again. I can always find
a use for a large piece of the mis-cut plywood somewhere in the
workshop.

 

[stuart noble]

Assuming I had matching spare ply to hand, I'd saw a strip to fill the
gap.

Quite possibly I'd saw the existing piece _narrower_, such that my
infill was about 2" wide. That's easier to work with than a really
narrow strip, especially if it's tapering.

I wouldn't mess with gripfill or liquids. I'd buy more ply than do
that.

Another way is to just buy more ply and do it again. I can always find
a use for a large piece of the mis-cut plywood somewhere in the
workshop.

Polyfilla. It's what the pros use and presumably nobody's going to be
tip toeing along the edges. Gripfil would make a fine old mess.

That Toolstation Deep Fill stuff in a tub dries really quickly if that's
important

 

[newshound]

Assuming I had matching spare ply to hand, I'd saw a strip to fill the
gap.

Quite possibly I'd saw the existing piece _narrower_, such that my
infill was about 2" wide. That's easier to work with than a really
narrow strip, especially if it's tapering.

I wouldn't mess with gripfill or liquids. I'd buy more ply than do
that.

Another way is to just buy more ply and do it again. I can always find
a use for a large piece of the mis-cut plywood somewhere in the
workshop.

Agreed.

First question is whether the joists are perpendicular to the wall, or
parallel. If perpendicular:

Don't take up the old piece yet. Get your strip (actually I would
probably work with 4 - 6 inches) and scribe it to fit the wavy wall.
Ideally, have the side opposite the wall as an original edge, so it will
be dead straight. Cut to fit with a jigsaw. Then lay it in position
against the wall, and mark the "overlap" line on the existing board.
Now, you only have to cut a straight line along the existing ply and
remove the unwanted bit. You may be able to do this without removing the
existing sheet using a circular saw set to the exact depth, as long as
you are sure there are 1) no nails or screws and 2) no wires or pipes
which you are likely to hit.

If parallel, it may be a bit more awkward. There is probably a joist
fairly close to the wall. It may be worth screwing a piece of (say) 2 x
2 alongside it, so that you have a bearing area about twice as wide as
normal. Then you can still use an "insert" as described above, but you
want the join line to run along the middle of the joist, and have the
overhanging piece screwed down firmly. If the gap between the joist and
the wall is only an inch or two you should get away with the overhang
although there is still a bit of a risk if (say) a chair is placed with
legs up against the wall. One "fix" in this case is to add another
support along the wall attached to the studding or brickwork. Another is
to make your inserted board start at the next joist away from the wall.

6 mm is a bit on the thin side for floorboard although you can get away
with it if bridging an unloaded gap (for example behind a loo or
wash-basin).

 

[GB]

Polyfilla. It's what the pros use and presumably nobody's going to be
tip toeing along the edges. Gripfil would make a fine old mess.

Would the vinyl just bridge over that gap? As you say, nobody will be
walking on that bit. Having said that, I used polyfilla once in quite a
high traffic area - it worked a treat.

 

[Jonathan]

Would the vinyl just bridge over that gap? As you say, nobody will be
walking on that bit. Having said that, I used polyfilla once in quite a
high traffic area - it worked a treat.

I have to replace some vinyl tiles where the small gap (in high
traffic area) has made the tiles crack. I was thinking of using car
body filler. Would Polyfilla work there?

Jonathan

 

[Roger Mills]

I was thinking something along the lines of Gripfill but I know the
real (solvent) stuff might be a bugger to get flat, and smooth and
something like a cement, might not be strong enough in that thickness
to stay down / together?

So, I'm really keen to know if there is anything that would be ideal
for this purpose please as I really don't want to be taking the new
toilet and hand basin up again (but actually want to).

Have you considered resin-based fillers, as used to repair car bodywork?
You can buy small quantities as Plastic Padding or Isopon (can you still
get that?) - but for larger quantities you need to buy resin and powder
separately, and mix your own.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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[T i m]

Firstly, can I just that everyone for their prompt and informative
replies. Lots of ideas there! I'll try to comment on all the idea vi a
reply here.

Agreed.

Agreed as well. However. The toilet is currently set on a 'plinth' of
Gripfill and I'd rather not do that again unless I really have to.

First question is whether the joists are perpendicular to the wall, or
parallel.

Both. The area in question so far is one narrow end of the bath room
and the one with the WC, basin and a bit of skirting board (now
removed).

If perpendicular:

Right, so the joists run the length of the room so this would apply to
(left to right) the length of wall covering the airing cupboard,
rectangular shower tray and some small floor standing cabinets
(cabinets about 1.2m wide total and 200 mm short of the shower) and
the main / blank / to_be_painted wall opposite.

Don't take up the old piece yet. Get your strip (actually I would
probably work with 4 - 6 inches) and scribe it to fit the wavy wall.
Ideally, have the side opposite the wall as an original edge, so it will
be dead straight. Cut to fit with a jigsaw. Then lay it in position
against the wall, and mark the "overlap" line on the existing board.

Understood. I believe I've done similar with carpet tiles.

Now, you only have to cut a straight line along the existing ply and
remove the unwanted bit.

Understood. Question here if I may. Would it be 'better' to cut this
joint at 45 Deg (beveled), like an expansion joint on a railway track?
Not so easy to do unless you cater for the length difference before
cutting (moving the new bit away from the wall by the length of the
overlap)? If this would be considered to be 'overkill, do you normally
have such panels touching or would you leave a gap (and if so, how
big)?

You may be able to do this without removing the
existing sheet using a circular saw set to the exact depth, as long as
you are sure there are 1) no nails or screws and 2) no wires or pipes
which you are likely to hit.

I could cut the new on top of the old with the same cut?

If parallel, it may be a bit more awkward. There is probably a joist
fairly close to the wall. It may be worth screwing a piece of (say) 2 x
2 alongside it, so that you have a bearing area about twice as wide as
normal. Then you can still use an "insert" as described above, but you
want the join line to run along the middle of the joist, and have the
overhanging piece screwed down firmly.

Understood. One of these parallel sides was under the bath and many of
the floorboards stop quite a bit short of the wall (joggled and
probably 1 in 3 and by no more than 20mm worse case). Whist most of
this area will be under said cupboards, this is the area I'm most like
to see covered with at least this 6mm ply.

If the gap between the joist and
the wall is only an inch or two you should get away with the overhang
although there is still a bit of a risk if (say) a chair is placed with
legs up against the wall.

Understood. I may need to make things clear here. This 6mm exterior
ply is only being used to provide a 'flat' surface for the vinyl
covering. The floorboards are old fashioned real wood planks, firmly
cut_nailed or screwed to some pretty substantial joists. Apart from
the 'holes' mentioned above, this ply is regularly screwed to the
floorboards (to but not through).

One "fix" in this case is to add another
support along the wall attached to the studding or brickwork. Another is
to make your inserted board start at the next joist away from the wall.

Understood. There is a section on the long / clear wall where the (3?)
floorboards have been cut away from a joist and I'll be supporting
that before the floorboards there are replaced. The boards themselves
probably still span 3 - 4 joists.

6 mm is a bit on the thin side for floorboard although you can get away
with it if bridging an unloaded gap (for example behind a loo or
wash-basin).

I may have explained that better above.

So, I think I may end up using a mix_an_match of the suggestions
offered. I note one floorboard (that was under the tap end of the
bath) that looks to be slightly soft / rotten so I'll cut the ply back
as suggested, replace the floorboard (probably 3-4 joist spaces long
with only a 1 joist spacing looking bad).

I'll do the same with the section to be under the cupboards and up to
the shower (a 200mm length will be visible and currently sports a
floorboards with 200mm 'gap' against the wall. Visible because the ply
is 25mm short of the wall at that point).

Around the shower tray and the more awkward bits behind the WC and
basin / pedestal (minus the section to do the bad floorboard) I might
use a filler (Toolstation 'deep' stuff?).

I might do the trim and insert back along the clear wall as I can get
to all of it fairly easily and it's the bit most likely to take a
chair / steps leg one day.

As only half the room had been done, hopefully *I* can do the rest
without any gaps. ;-)

It looks like I might also be doing the rest of the laminate flooring
down the hall (kitchen already done) but that is another story! ;-)

Thanks again all who replied!

Cheers, T i m

 

[Theo Markettos]

Would the vinyl just bridge over that gap? As you say, nobody will be
walking on that bit. Having said that, I used polyfilla once in quite a
high traffic area - it worked a treat.

I have an access panel under the shower tray with a similar kind of gap (a
favourite residence of spiders, which some people aren't keen on). I was
thinking of using silicone on a bit of plastic (ice cream tub) for support -
easy to cut through. Wondering whether acrylic or similar filler might do
instead (have a pot of it, from Aldi I think). Is it easy to get out should
access be needed?

Theo

 

[george - dicegeorge]

Firstly, can I just that everyone for their prompt and informative
replies. Lots of ideas there! I'll try to comment on all the idea vi a
reply here.


Agreed as well. However. The toilet is currently set on a 'plinth' of
Gripfill and I'd rather not do that again unless I really have to.


Both. The area in question so far is one narrow end of the bath room
and the one with the WC, basin and a bit of skirting board (now
removed).


Right, so the joists run the length of the room so this would apply to
(left to right) the length of wall covering the airing cupboard,
rectangular shower tray and some small floor standing cabinets
(cabinets about 1.2m wide total and 200 mm short of the shower) and
the main / blank / to_be_painted wall opposite.

Understood. I believe I've done similar with carpet tiles.


Understood. Question here if I may. Would it be 'better' to cut this
joint at 45 Deg (beveled), like an expansion joint on a railway track?
Not so easy to do unless you cater for the length difference before
cutting (moving the new bit away from the wall by the length of the
overlap)? If this would be considered to be 'overkill, do you normally
have such panels touching or would you leave a gap (and if so, how
big)?


I could cut the new on top of the old with the same cut?

Understood. One of these parallel sides was under the bath and many of
the floorboards stop quite a bit short of the wall (joggled and
probably 1 in 3 and by no more than 20mm worse case). Whist most of
this area will be under said cupboards, this is the area I'm most like
to see covered with at least this 6mm ply.


Understood. I may need to make things clear here. This 6mm exterior
ply is only being used to provide a 'flat' surface for the vinyl
covering. The floorboards are old fashioned real wood planks, firmly
cut_nailed or screwed to some pretty substantial joists. Apart from
the 'holes' mentioned above, this ply is regularly screwed to the
floorboards (to but not through).


Understood. There is a section on the long / clear wall where the (3?)
floorboards have been cut away from a joist and I'll be supporting
that before the floorboards there are replaced. The boards themselves
probably still span 3 - 4 joists.

I may have explained that better above.

So, I think I may end up using a mix_an_match of the suggestions
offered. I note one floorboard (that was under the tap end of the
bath) that looks to be slightly soft / rotten so I'll cut the ply back
as suggested, replace the floorboard (probably 3-4 joist spaces long
with only a 1 joist spacing looking bad).

I'll do the same with the section to be under the cupboards and up to
the shower (a 200mm length will be visible and currently sports a
floorboards with 200mm 'gap' against the wall. Visible because the ply
is 25mm short of the wall at that point).

Around the shower tray and the more awkward bits behind the WC and
basin / pedestal (minus the section to do the bad floorboard) I might
use a filler (Toolstation 'deep' stuff?).

I might do the trim and insert back along the clear wall as I can get
to all of it fairly easily and it's the bit most likely to take a
chair / steps leg one day.

As only half the room had been done, hopefully *I* can do the rest
without any gaps. ;-)

It looks like I might also be doing the rest of the laminate flooring
down the hall (kitchen already done) but that is another story! ;-)

Thanks again all who replied!

Cheers, T i m

using car body filler you could have it curving slightly up,
so that the vinyl covering curves up at the edges,
and any water spillage doesnt seep down the edge...

im thinking of doing this,
is it a good idea?

[g]