Dripping toilet


G

GoogaICQ

I posted about a dripping toilet more than half a year ago.
It spontaneously fixed itself.

Now it has come back once again.

Can anyone suggest how I can fix this drip?
I have posted a YouTube clip of it so you can see/hear it.

The drip coming off the white part is not the main sound that is
heard. You will notice this as you watch the clip.
I can't see where the main drip is coming from (limited access to the
basin due to a counter top).

TIA
 
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T

Tony Hwang

GoogaICQ said:
I posted about a dripping toilet more than half a year ago.
It spontaneously fixed itself.

Now it has come back once again.

Can anyone suggest how I can fix this drip?
I have posted a YouTube clip of it so you can see/hear it.

The drip coming off the white part is not the main sound that is
heard. You will notice this as you watch the clip.
I can't see where the main drip is coming from (limited access to the
basin due to a counter top).

TIA
Hi,
Replace that fill valve which is old style. It cost ~10.00 for new
better one. Internal leaking is what I think. I had same problem out
at my 4 season cabin. Good luck.
 
K

krw

I posted about a dripping toilet more than half a year ago.
It spontaneously fixed itself.

Now it has come back once again.

Can anyone suggest how I can fix this drip?
I have posted a YouTube clip of it so you can see/hear it.
Replace the valve. It'll cost about $10 to replace the entire thing.
The drip coming off the white part is not the main sound that is
heard. You will notice this as you watch the clip.
I can't see where the main drip is coming from (limited access to the
basin due to a counter top).
Is the sound coming from the water dripping down the overflow? At times the
sound of the drip is synced pretty well with the drip from the valve. Water
entering the water closet has to also exit.
 
R

recyclebinned

I posted about a dripping toilet more than half a year ago.
It spontaneously fixed itself.

Now it has come back once again.

Can anyone suggest how I can fix this drip?
I have posted a YouTube clip of it so you can see/hear it.

The drip coming off the white part is not the main sound that is
heard. You will notice this as you watch the clip.
I can't see where the main drip is coming from (limited access to the
basin due to a counter top).

TIA
Open the ballcock, remove the washer from the stem, turn it around and re-insert it into the stem with the used side facing away from you. It will cost you nothing and you will be good for another thousand flushes.
 
D

Dave M.

My guess is a leaking ballcock valve. Drain the tank and look for maker's
marks. Go to their web-site and find your valve's model number. Your local
hardware store will have the parts to fix the valve. Usually instructions
are included with the parts kit. Lousy access on your video but this is an
easy jub.

Dave M.
 
G

GoogaICQ

Open the ballcock, remove the washer from the stem, turn it around and re-insert it into the stem with the used side facing away from you. It will cost you nothing and you will be good for another thousand flushes.
Thanks for helping out!
Dave is also focusing on the ballcock (but suggesting a new one).

I have some simple questions.
As you could see in the video, the builder of my home came up with a
nifty design for my bathroom.
The lid of the toilet tank can be slid off (just barely) but access to
the tank is essentially non-existent due to a shelf that sits directly
above the tank.

The only way I can see gaining access to the ballcock would be to
disassemble to toilet completely (detach from the floor etc., remove
all plumbing etc.).

Can I remove the washer from the stem and turn it around without
needing to go in through the top of the tank?

Also how can I stop that second dripping? The one you can see (but not
hear much of) in the video?

Thanks! :)
 
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R

recyclebinned

On Jul 22, 6:09 pm, (e-mail address removed) wrote:
> On Sunday, July 22, 2012 12:57:10 PM UTC-7, GoogaICQ wrote:
> > I posted about a dripping toilet more than half a year ago.
> > It spontaneously fixed itself.
>
> > Now it has come back once again.
>
> > Can anyone suggest how I can fix this drip?
> > I have posted a YouTube clip of it so you can see/hear it.
> >
>
> > The drip coming off the white part is not the main sound that is
> > heard. You will notice this as you watch the clip.
> > I can't see where the main drip is coming from (limitedaccess to the
> > basin due to a counter top).
>
> > TIA
>
> Open the ballcock, remove the washer from the stem, turn it around and re-insert it into the stem with the used side facing away from you. It will cost you nothing and you will be good for another thousand flushes.

Thanks for helping out!
Dave is also focusing on the ballcock (but suggesting a new one).

I have some simple questions.
As you could see in the video, the builder of my home came up with a
nifty design for my bathroom.
The lid of the toilet tank can be slid off (just barely) but access to
the tank is essentially non-existent due to a shelf that sits directly
above the tank.

The only way I can see gaining access to the ballcock would be to
disassemble to toilet completely (detach from the floor etc., remove
all plumbing etc.).

Can I remove the washer from the stem and turn it around without
needing to go in through the top of the tank?

Also how can I stop that second dripping? The one you can see (but not
hear much of) in the video?

Thanks! :)
You got enough room there to take off the top of the ballcock, reverse the washer and re-assemble it. You will need practice doing it before you attempt it however. Go to the hardware store, find a ballcock as close to the one that you have which may be a Coast and practice taking it apart.
 
D

Dave M.

Looked like enough room to get your hands in there. If not find smaller
hands. Got kids? A wife? I did not recommend replacing the ballcock since I
believe it can be rebuilt.
Eventually you will need to get access to the top of the tank. I'd
consider removing the countertop for this rather than removing the toilet.
Hopefully it's not tiled in place. I'd think about building another
countertop, too

Dave M.
 
G

GoogaICQ

You got enough room there to take off the top of the ballcock, reverse the washer and re-assemble it. You will need practice doing it before you attempt it however. Go to the hardware store, find a ballcock as close to the one that you have which may be a Coast and practice taking it apart.
I've pretty much been consumed with my mice in the attic problem for
the past few weeks, but am ready to start tackling the dripping toilet
now.

I was at a hardware store this evening asking for some tips.
The guy told me to first turn off the water supply to the toilet.

Well there is a knob near the floor that controls water flow.
It could only turn clockwise. I turned it and water started to leak
out onto the floor, bigtime! WTF?

Is there another way to cut the water supply to the toilet?

I tried to get into the ballcock yesterday but met resistance.
Then I noticed a plastic pin that was connecting the cap to the body.
I removed the pin but still couldn't twist the cap off.
The float seemed to move to the side as I turned the cap and it hit
the closet side.
The guy at the store told me to first remove the float. Is this right?
Any other tips to getting into the ballcock?

There are two screws at the ballcock. One on top of it. One on the arm
of the float and a white plastic piece (I have no idea what its
function is).

TIA
 
D

Dan Espen

GoogaICQ said:
I've pretty much been consumed with my mice in the attic problem for
the past few weeks, but am ready to start tackling the dripping toilet
now.

I was at a hardware store this evening asking for some tips.
The guy told me to first turn off the water supply to the toilet.

Well there is a knob near the floor that controls water flow.
It could only turn clockwise. I turned it and water started to leak
out onto the floor, bigtime! WTF?
Let me guess, old plumbing?
Is there another way to cut the water supply to the toilet?
Sure, main supply cut off.
I tried to get into the ballcock yesterday but met resistance.
In my opinion, you should be fixing the leaking cut off first.
Then I noticed a plastic pin that was connecting the cap to the body.
I removed the pin but still couldn't twist the cap off.
The float seemed to move to the side as I turned the cap and it hit
the closet side.
The guy at the store told me to first remove the float. Is this right?
Any other tips to getting into the ballcock?

There are two screws at the ballcock. One on top of it. One on the arm
of the float and a white plastic piece (I have no idea what its
function is).
Generally, you don't disassemble and service the filler assembly.
You take it out and put in a new one.
 
G

GoogaICQ

Thanks for helping out Dan.
Let me guess, old plumbing?
Well, if 14 years is old, then I guess it's old. :)
The house was built 14 years ago. I don't consider my house old yet.
Sure, main supply cut off.
OK.


In my opinion, you should be fixing the leaking cut off first.
OK. Well I never knew I had a problem with my cut off until today.
I never touched it the 14 years I've been here.
I just found it strange that when I turned it clockwise to shut it, it
started to leak big time. When I opened it all the way, the leaking
stopped.
Is there an easy way to fix this?

Generally, you don't disassemble and service the filler assembly.
You take it out and put in a new one.
Right. A couple of fellows above were suggesting the washer in the
ballcock assembly was starting to go. One guy suggested I try flipping
the washer over and re-assembling the ballcock. That's what I am
aiming for.
If that doesn't work, I'll buy a new assembly.
Either way, I need to figure out how to:

1. Stop the water to the tank
2. Disassemble the ballcock assembly.
 
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D

Dan Espen

GoogaICQ said:
Thanks for helping out Dan.


Well, if 14 years is old, then I guess it's old. :)
The house was built 14 years ago. I don't consider my house old yet.
Well, definitely not old.
Surprised.
OK. Well I never knew I had a problem with my cut off until today.
I never touched it the 14 years I've been here.
I just found it strange that when I turned it clockwise to shut it, it
started to leak big time. When I opened it all the way, the leaking
stopped.
Is there an easy way to fix this?
Leaking at the halfway point might be fixed by tightening
the nut behind the handle.

If not, replace.
Most likely cut off valve is soldered on.
There are instructions online.
Right. A couple of fellows above were suggesting the washer in the
ballcock assembly was starting to go. One guy suggested I try flipping
the washer over and re-assembling the ballcock. That's what I am
aiming for.
If that doesn't work, I'll buy a new assembly.
Either way, I need to figure out how to:

1. Stop the water to the tank
Fix cutoff.
2. Disassemble the ballcock assembly.
You won't need to disassemble the ballcock.
Take it out and put in a new one.

I used to mess with washers and the like when I had
solid brass fittings in the tank.

Now this stuff is plastic, not meant to be repaired as far as I know.
 
P

Paul Drahn

Thanks for helping out Dan.


Well, if 14 years is old, then I guess it's old. :)
The house was built 14 years ago. I don't consider my house old yet.


OK. Well I never knew I had a problem with my cut off until today.
I never touched it the 14 years I've been here.
I just found it strange that when I turned it clockwise to shut it, it
started to leak big time. When I opened it all the way, the leaking
stopped.
Is there an easy way to fix this?
A common problem. I had several shut off valve leaks a year ago in our
rental property. Toilet, bathroom sink, etc.

Shut off the main water supply. Put a pan or something under the
shutoff, if you can. Or use a bath towel, etc. to catch the water. Turn
the valve a turn or so to off, then remove the handle and then the hex
top of the valve. Now you can see the rubber washer, just like any other
water faucet. Replace the washer with a good one and reassemble.

Some newer shutoff valves are mostly plastic and operate with just a
quarter turn. The ones in our mfg home are that way, as are the new ones
at my place of business.

At 14 years, you house is telling you to take better care of my valves!

Paul
 
G

GoogaICQ

Leaking at the halfway point might be fixed by tightening
the nut behind the handle.
OK thanks.
If not, replace.
Most likely cut off valve is soldered on.
There are instructions online.
OK.


You won't need to disassemble the ballcock.
Take it out and put in a new one.

I used to mess with washers and the like when I had
solid brass fittings in the tank.

Now this stuff is plastic, not meant to be repaired as far as I know.
OK. But the problem is that if I replace the ballcock, it means I
need to also buy a new float and attach it to the ballcock.

I don't know if you saw the initial photos I posted? Due to the crazy
builder design, there is a shelf on top of the toilet basin, leaving
only a few inches of access to the basin.

I won't be able to get the float out without disassembling the entire
toilet.
That is something I definitely do not want to take up!

I'm not sure where to go from here.
 
D

DerbyDad03

Thanks for helping out!
Dave is also focusing on the ballcock (but suggesting a new one).

I have some simple questions.
As you could see in the video, the builder of my home came up with a
nifty design for my bathroom.
The lid of the toilet tank can be slid off (just barely) but access to
the tank is essentially non-existent due to a shelf that sits directly
above the tank.

The only way I can see gaining access to the ballcock would be to
disassemble to toilet completely (detach from the floor etc., remove
all plumbing etc.).

Can I remove the washer from the stem and turn it around without
needing to go in through the top of the tank?

Also how can I stop that second dripping? The one you can see (but not
hear much of) in the video?

Thanks!  :)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
How is the shelf attached to the wall?

Could you be lucky enough that it's a hidden bracket design similar to
what is shown here?


That is what I have above my toilet. The shelf just pulls straight out
and off, although there may be a set screw underneath.
 
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D

Dan Espen

GoogaICQ said:
OK thanks.


OK. But the problem is that if I replace the ballcock, it means I
need to also buy a new float and attach it to the ballcock.

I don't know if you saw the initial photos I posted? Due to the crazy
builder design, there is a shelf on top of the toilet basin, leaving
only a few inches of access to the basin.

I won't be able to get the float out without disassembling the entire
toilet.
That is something I definitely do not want to take up!
I took a look at the video.

Hard to tell, but you detach the filler assembly, turn it on it's side
and take it out. 4 inches of clearance is more than enough.
 
B

bob haller

pulling the toilet requires lifting it over the top of the flange mounting bolts, one day you will have no choice but to remove the shelf......

another issue that bit me once big time:( I closed the main water shut off valve at the meter, added a T and a water line for a outside outlet. had one fitting left to solder and decided to flush the line, as my mom had complained of off water taste and odors probably from the solder and flux... from previous work a week earlier

so i opened the valve a bit, flushed the new line, and closed the main valve which was bad, it wouldnt shut:(

ended up with water everywhere, had to call the water company who had a heck of a time finding the curb valve, as the community had repaved the street and raised the ground level burying the curb access cover, worse the filldirt had lots of metal in it so the water comanys metal detector found htseverywhere.

While waiting on the water company guy it was a saturday and the fellow didnt arrive right away.

so i went to the hardware store for a new main valve, and was so distractedabout what was happening i walked out without stopping at the register. fortunately i was friends with the owner:) he reported as I walked out i leftwet footprints and my shoes went squish squish squish........

before doing plumbing find your curb cock, ideally have a tool to shut off the main valve, and start early in morning in case things go bad.....

its a rather amusing memory after all these years, my mom long dead.....

wierd stuff comes up when i do plumbing.....

i much prefer wiring
 
G

GoogaICQ

pulling the toilet requires lifting it over the top of the flange mounting bolts, one day you will have no choice but to remove the shelf......

another issue that bit me once big time:( I closed the main water shut off valve at the meter, added a T and a water line for a outside outlet. had one fitting left to solder and decided to flush the line, as my mom had complained of off water taste and odors probably from the solder and flux... from previous work a week earlier

so i opened the valve a bit, flushed the new line, and closed the main valve which was bad, it wouldnt shut:(

ended up with water everywhere, had to call the water  company who had a heck of a time finding the curb valve, as the community had repaved the street and raised the ground level burying the curb access cover, worse the fill dirt had lots of metal in it so the water comanys metal detector foundhts everywhere.

While waiting on the water company guy it was a saturday and the fellow didnt arrive right away.

so i went to the hardware store for a new main valve, and was so distracted about what was happening i walked out without stopping at the register. fortunately i was friends with the owner:) he reported as I walked out i left wet footprints and my shoes went squish squish squish........

before doing plumbing find your curb cock, ideally have a tool to shut off the main valve, and start early in morning in case things go bad.....

its a rather amusing memory after all these years, my mom long dead.....

wierd stuff comes up when i do plumbing.....

i much prefer wiring
Crazy story there bob! I hope I never come close to that one. :)
Yes, I think I will have to cut off that shelf at some point, you are
right.
Such a stupid design.
 
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G

GoogaICQ

How is the shelf attached to the wall?

Could you be lucky enough that it's a hidden bracket design similar to
what is shown here?
Unfortunately not.
Mine is a one piece top that goes from the sink area on the left, to
the toilet area on the right. The whole piece is fastened securely to
the wall and siliconed.
I will eventually need to cut the shelf over the toilet and detach it
from the wall (its only support there).
 

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