Concrete repair ("fix" bad concrete)


W

William M. Jones

Two years ago in September, I poured a raised patio approximately 2000 sq.ft.
in size. Five months later, I got called back because the surface was
spalling 1/16" to 3/32" thickness. The de-icer they had used said not to
use it on concrete less than a year old. I assumed that was the problem,
and charged them to repair it. The products used were Top 'n Bond (which
had been used on other projects sucessfully) and then a tinted concrete
sealer (H&C). This year the surface is doing the same thing. I found out
that the batch plant where I had gotten the concrete had a problem with
quality (I don't know if it was the aggregate or the portland).

The only thing I can think of to try is grinding the surface down about
3/16", apply a hardener, tint and an industrial sealer. Two problems with
that are (1) the grinding will leave too smooth a surface (needs to be
non-slip) and (2) if I already have poor concrete, I still have nothing
to bond to.

I am familiar with products from Sika, MasterBuilder, and Sonneborn, and
have the expertise and tools to use them properly.

If anyone can help with this problem, please post or respond directly.
Thank you for your time. Bill ([email protected])
 
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R

Ray

Two years ago in September, I poured a raised patio approximately 2000 sq.ft.
in size. Five months later, I got called back because the surface was
spalling 1/16" to 3/32" thickness. The de-icer they had used said not to
use it on concrete less than a year old. I assumed that was the problem,
and charged them to repair it. The products used were Top 'n Bond (which
had been used on other projects sucessfully) and then a tinted concrete
sealer (H&C). This year the surface is doing the same thing. I found out
that the batch plant where I had gotten the concrete had a problem with
quality (I don't know if it was the aggregate or the portland).

The only thing I can think of to try is grinding the surface down about
3/16", apply a hardener, tint and an industrial sealer. Two problems with
that are (1) the grinding will leave too smooth a surface (needs to be
non-slip) and (2) if I already have poor concrete, I still have nothing
to bond to.

I am familiar with products from Sika, MasterBuilder, and Sonneborn, and
have the expertise and tools to use them properly.

If anyone can help with this problem, please post or respond directly.
Thank you for your time. Bill ([email protected])
I,m not a pro, but common sense says
I think you need to find out what's wrong before you try to fix it.
Grinding the surface down 3/16 of an inch is out.
What did you do to prepare the surface when you made the first repair?

You need either of one of two things, but a rough surface in either case.
One that will not chip/spall when hit with a hammer.
One that is thick enough (2" minimum) to be mechanically bonded
using mesh and anchors.
 
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