Buying items on eBay


R

RBM

I'm a contractor and I use a lot of tools. If you want used tools, go to
garage sales where you can at least try them before buying them. If you want
new tools, select a make and model, then search retailers and etailers for
the lowest price including shipping and tax. On Ebay, I've seen people bid
for things for more money than they could buy them at reputable retailers.
On ebay, you pay first, then wait for the seller to be so inclined to send
the items... or not. When things go horribly wrong, you have practically no
recourse
 
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E

Edwin Pawlowski

Cindi said:
I am interested in buying a cordless circular saw I saw on ebay (
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030231795&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)
but keep getting outbid. What is the maximum amount I should pay?

Also, Is $5 a good price for this drill
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030233141&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)

Cheers
Just curious, are you somehow related to the seller?

The saw is brand new. I have to wonder if it is just part of a kit, or if
it was stolen merchandise from a job site. I'd rather not bid myself. .
 
B

bill allemann

Unless you are local to where the seller is, and can try out and pick up the
units (NO advance payment), I wouldn't bid on these at all. Stick to local
stuff that you can have a look at. See if there's a craigslist.com for your
locale.
I buy a fair amount on ebay, and this seller is not who you do business
with.

I realize you may actually be spamming for your own ebay ads. If so, you
need to rethink trying to be an ebay seller.

Bill
 
Z

zxcvbob

when on e-bay unless you are a pro e-bayer your best shot is to decide
what it's worth to you before you ever bid and never look at the
auction after you put that amount in. sure it might go for .01C over
you bid, but who's to say the next guy wouldn't have gone way higher if
he had too. I have met people that got realy realy good deals on e-bay
and met people that well didn't do so well.

Empressess #124457


I decide the maximum I would be willing to spend on an item, then I wait
until 5 seconds before the auction is over and I bid that amount. (I
don't want to tip my hand early.) Sometimes I win, sometimes I don't.
Sometimes I forget to set my alarm clock and the item gets away from me,
cheap. Sometimes I get outbid by someone who places /their/ maximum bid
2 seconds before the auction is over; but that's OK because I bid my
maximum and I don't want to get caught up in a bidding war.

That's my system, it might not work for you.

Best regards,
Bob
 
S

Steve B

I have been ebaying for 5.5 years. I am a PowerSeller, and buy lots of
stuff, too. 1,605 transactions

This is what I do.

1. I prefer to use a snipe service. I use bidnapper. It keeps the price
from going up early. I set it and forget it. I don't have to sit up and
watch the auction to be there at 2AM because some moron listed it at 2AM
while suffering from insomnia.

2. Before that, I would put in a proxy, but only a couple of minutes before
the end of the auction, again to keep the price from ratcheting up early. I
got many items for less than I would have paid if I had sent the proxy in
early. When you send in a proxy, BID THE ABSOLUTE MOST YOU WILL PAY. If
you get beat, you get beat, and there will be another along soon. But
again, you have to physically be at a computer when the item comes off, and
if you're not, you miss out. Proxying early will just drive up the price
because mainly clueless newbies will bid and rebid, and don't have a clue
about late proxies or snipe services. If you proxy early, you will just
help drive the price up. I once got a mighty fine belt buckle for $6 that
was worth about $50 new. If I had bid early, the price would surely have
gone up.

3. Don't bid over the course of the auction. Take all your action in the
last minute, whether you proxy, snipe or just send in a bid. Trouble is, if
you don't proxy or snipe, you get one shot, and even if you'll pay $100 for
an item and the current price is $20, you can't enter a bid for $100, but
only $20 plus the bid increment. You won't have time for a second bid.

4. Always remember there will be another item along like it soon. Set your
Favorite Searches to notify you by e mail when your item is listed. If you
just have to have it and have it now, do the high proxy thing.

5. Do your homework. Go to Completed Items and see what you want has been
selling for. That will give you a price guideline. No sense paying $40 for
something that's been selling for $20 for the past month.

Proxy like you mean it, and proxy late, or you will probably lose or end up
paying too much.

Steve
 
K

krw

I decide the maximum I would be willing to spend on an item, then I wait
until 5 seconds before the auction is over and I bid that amount. (I
don't want to tip my hand early.) Sometimes I win, sometimes I don't.
Sometimes I forget to set my alarm clock and the item gets away from me,
cheap. Sometimes I get outbid by someone who places /their/ maximum bid
2 seconds before the auction is over; but that's OK because I bid my
maximum and I don't want to get caught up in a bidding war.
That's pretty much my system too. Though if it's something I
really want and I won't be around I post the amount I want to pay
earlier. If I don't get the item there is always tomorrow.
That's my system, it might not work for you.
It has for me, though my number of transactions transactions is in
the high teens. I've been quite happy with the widgets I've bought
too.

On Topic Alert: About six months ago I bought a Bostitch siding
nailer on Ebay for $80. I just got around to trying it out
(couldn't find nails locally); works fine.
 
M

mm

I am interested in buying a cordless circular saw I saw on ebay (
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030231795&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)
but keep getting outbid. What is the maximum amount I should pay?

Also, Is $5 a good price for this drill
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030233141&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)
You're looking at it the wrong way. You have to ask, is it worth
15.95, because that's what it costs with shipping. 19.95 if you want
the case.

I have 3 drills, and I keep on in the original box with several drill
bits and a center punch and the box is useful. OTOH, the box in the
pictutre is much bigger than the drill. That means it will hold more,
but if your place is really crowded, the wasted space inside can be
problem.

From the 15.95 or 1995, you can back out your local 5% sales tax if
you want a better comparison, but you should also remmeber that if you
buy at a store, you can return it easily if it doesn't work and even
if you don't like it when you get it home. Drills are cheap these
days. Have you looked at a store.

My cordless drill was good because it was light and no cord when I was
2 stories up reattaching my gutters, but at ground level, I have more
than enough extension cords to go anywhere, and I don't find it
inconvenient to use one. And the AC has endless power, and more power
thasn a battery drill. So I think corded drills are very good.


Oh, yeah, yard sales and Pennysaver ads. Although around here, one
can go months without seeing tools at a yard sale. Just baby clothes.

At a police auction in Chicago, I once saw someone pay more for a
bicycle than it cost new.
 
M

mm

I decide the maximum I would be willing to spend on an item, then I wait
until 5 seconds before the auction is over and I bid that amount. (I
don't want to tip my hand early.)
How does bidding early tip your hand? They've thought about that,
and it only shows from you the minimum incremental bid to surpass the
previous bidder.
 
H

hallerb

i see people pay over retail on e bay all the time. my feedback is 150
the vast majority of buyers and sellers are fine. a few like everything
are rip offs, and i have been hit too.

know what your buying, purchase only from hose with good feedback,
consider shipping costs:( dont expect everything to be a great
deal.........
 
Z

zxcvbob

Steve said:
3. Don't bid over the course of the auction. Take all your action in the
last minute, whether you proxy, snipe or just send in a bid. Trouble is, if
you don't proxy or snipe, you get one shot, and even if you'll pay $100 for
an item and the current price is $20, you can't enter a bid for $100, but
only $20 plus the bid increment. You won't have time for a second bid.

This doesn't make sense. If there's one minute left and the current
price is $20, of course you can bid $100. Maybe the current high bidder
actually bid $75, but the next-to-high bidder was at $19.50. You need
to bid at least $75.01 to be a contender, you just don't know it because
the high bidder's maximum stays hidden. Bid $100 and you'll be the high
bidder at about $76 until another late bidder drives the price up or
snatches it from you by bidding $100+.

It's the same proxy system that works early on in the auction.

There are some auction sites (I think gunbroker.com is one of them)
where any last-minute bid extends the auction for 10 minutes. This
prevents sniping.

Bob
 
S

Steve B

zxcvbob said:
This doesn't make sense. If there's one minute left and the current price
is $20, of course you can bid $100. Maybe the current high bidder
actually bid $75, but the next-to-high bidder was at $19.50. You need to
bid at least $75.01 to be a contender, you just don't know it because the
high bidder's maximum stays hidden. Bid $100 and you'll be the high
bidder at about $76 until another late bidder drives the price up or
snatches it from you by bidding $100+.

It's the same proxy system that works early on in the auction.

There are some auction sites (I think gunbroker.com is one of them) where
any last-minute bid extends the auction for 10 minutes. This prevents
sniping.

Bob

Hey, do it whatever way works for you.

Steve
 
B

Bill Kitterman

Cindi said:
I am interested in buying a cordless circular saw I saw on ebay (
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030231795&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)
but keep getting outbid. What is the maximum amount I should pay?

Also, Is $5 a good price for this drill
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290030233141&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=019)

Cheers
Your saw is one piece out of a five piece set. I've seen the whole set on
sale in hardware stores for less than $30.00 so I wouldn't bid higher than
$5.00. After all, there is shipping, finding a compatible battery and a
charger. The other piece isn't a treasure either in my opinion.

Bill
 
K

Kirby

"Cindi" wrote
I am interested in buying a cordless circular saw I saw on ebay (
but keep getting outbid. What is the maximum amount I should pay?
Spamming a NG with your items will get you in trouble.

For one, you are a liar. No one has bid on this item more than once.
Another thing is, it hasn't even met reserve, so it's not going to sell
until it does.


Also, Is $5 a good price for this drill
For sale by the same seller. Quit spamming your items.

You're posting from Shelton Conn . Items located in Bloomfield Conn.
 
H

hallerb

The best deals result from bidding at LAST moment so as to not drive
prices up over time.......

I do this a LOT, and have gotten great deals.

I bottom shop ;looking for underpriced stuff thats about to sell.
Occasionally I will just bid whats its worth.

Working the system is like haggling at a flea market. I enjoy that
too:)

I suspect sometimes sellers use shell accounts to bid stuff up but
theres o way to prove it
 
R

ronnyknight

I am interested in buying a cordless circular saw I saw on ebay (
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
but keep getting outbid. What is the maximum amount I should pay?

Also, Is $5 a good price for this drill
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Cheers
You are most likely spamming these things, but if you really want to
buy them, you DO NOT want to buy them on ebay. Never buy ANY power
tools or other electrical items on ebay. You will likely get a broken
piece of junk. I learned this the hard way, buying power tools on
ebay. Go to your nearest building supply or hardware store and get
your tools. You will likely pay the same amount or even less by the
time you pay the outrageous shipping fees they charge on ebay.
And on ebay, you cant return it when it breaks....
Ebay is ok for buying books, cds, dvds and trinkets, but NEVER buy
electrical things.
 
R

ronnyknight

I have been ebaying for 5.5 years. I am a PowerSeller, and buy lots of
stuff, too. 1,605 transactions

This is what I do.

1. I prefer to use a snipe service. I use bidnapper. It keeps the price
from going up early. I set it and forget it. I don't have to sit up and
watch the auction to be there at 2AM because some moron listed it at 2AM
while suffering from insomnia.
It's exactly because of snipe software and or services like this that
I cancelled my ebay account. I used to bid at the last moment
(manually). Sometimes I won, other times not. But at least I was
being honest and fair to others. Sure, it was a battle, myself
against other bidders, but it was a challenge and it was exciting to
try to send my bid thru at the last second. Now those of us who do it
manually have no chance to win, and it's not even fun anymore.
Obviously software can do the job most accurately and know precisely
what second to send the bid based on ebay time rather than actual
time. And for that matter, the prices and shipping on ebay are
already too high, often higher than retail. So now you are going to
pay this bidding service yet more money...... NOT !!!!

Years ago, when ebay first started it was fun. Sort of a giant garage
sale. Not no more !!!!
Now its a big ripoff.....
 
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R

ronnyknight

i see people pay over retail on e bay all the time. my feedback is 150
the vast majority of buyers and sellers are fine. a few like everything
are rip offs, and i have been hit too.

know what your buying, purchase only from hose with good feedback,
consider shipping costs:( dont expect everything to be a great
deal.........
I once bid on a book that was currently in print and available in any
bookstore. Not an antique or anything special. I just wanted the
book, and thought I might get it for half the price of new. The book
sold for $29 retail, so with sales tax I figured half price would be
$15 (with S+H). The S+H was $5, so I figured the most I'd bid was
$10. I actually bid $10.25 just to get the edge over $10.

When the sale ended, the book sold for $48.50. Add the S+H and this
idiot paid $53.50 for a USED book he could have bought NEW in any
bookstore for about $30 with sales tax.

How can anyone be so stupid?

Ron
 

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