Band Saw

[Kevin Rayner]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set up the
blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade wanders off at an angle
when cutting. I have set it up incorrectly. The tension in the blade seems
ok. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Kevin

 

[John]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set up
the blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade wanders off
at an angle when cutting.

I have set it up incorrectly.

This is probably the reason then! No seriously you're not forcing the work
through the saw are you? I do not have a bandsaw myself but remember
similar problems during my apprenticeship, trying to get your bit cut
quicker so you could have a longer tea/smoke break!

John

 

[BigWallop]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set up the
blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade wanders off at an angle
when cutting. I have set it up incorrectly. The tension in the blade seems
ok. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Kevin

Pressing to hard against the blade when you're cutting. With a band saw you need to
allow the blade to cut gently so you don't need to push anything against it to hard.
You also get slight wandering if the material you're cutting is thin and the blade is
wobbling around above it. To prevent this from happening you get an extension rubbing
block on an arm that swings down from the top and straddles the blade just above the
thing you're going to cut. The arm is slide adjustable on a finger bolt so that you
get a full range for thicknesses.

Is the tension OK ? The tension needs to be pulling the blade until the point when
you ping the band it rings like a crystal glass and doesn't sound like a thud. I've
had a band saw blade singing in top C before. )


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[Simon]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set up the
blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade wanders off at an angle
when cutting. I have set it up incorrectly. The tension in the blade seems
ok. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Kevin

you need a new blade ..... the blade has become blunt on one side for some
reason ..... this problem is caused when one side cuts faster than the other
side

 

[Andy Dingley]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws.

This is below the point at which bandsaws really become usable.

the blade wanders off at an angle when cutting.

If the saw is set up correctly and it still does this, then it's
called drift and you have to live with it (all bandsaws do it, some
just do more than others). There's no reason why a bandsaw should cut
in a line exactly at right angles to the face of the wheel.

Measure the drift angle, then set the fence up to be parallel to this
angle (a decent fence is adjustable for this). It may well change with
different blades.

You can measure the drift angle by taking a thin piece of stock with a
straight edge, setting it up parallel to the 0° datum fence position,
then letting the saw cut freely in the direction it wants to. Then
either measure the angle, or use this wedge as a jig to set up the
fence.

I strongly recommend
Mark Duginske's "Bandsaw Handbook"
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0806963980/codesmiths

Also buy a good range of decent blades. Using the right blade is half
the battle.

 

[Andrew Mawson]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set up the
blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade wanders off at an angle
when cutting. I have set it up incorrectly. The tension in the blade seems
ok. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Kevin

Kevin,

You are probably forcing the cut too fast, or have too long a length of
blade 'exposed' (drop the top guide so it just clears the work) or the blade
'set' is insufficient for the work that you are cutting. (each tooth should
be set over alternating left and right so that the kerf cut is wider than
the actual blade material)

Andrew Mawson

 

[Tony Williams]

I have just bought one of the Draper diy bandsaws. I have set
up the blade bearings and the rubbing blocks but the blade
wanders off at an angle when cutting. I have set it up
incorrectly. The tension in the blade seems ok. What am I doing
wrong?

My old B&D bandsaw, when new, could cut a perfect
straight line down a 6ft length of 17mm Conti,
running against the guide fence. 20 years later
it will not cut any sort of straight line, even
with a new blade, and precisely set up. I have
been told that this is due to age/slackness in
the bearings of the top and bottom front wheels.

Might be worth checking those bearings on your
brand new bandsaw.

 

[Kevin Rayner]

Pressing to hard against the blade when you're cutting. With a band saw you need to
allow the blade to cut gently so you don't need to push anything against it to hard.
You also get slight wandering if the material you're cutting is thin and the blade is
wobbling around above it. To prevent this from happening you get an extension rubbing
block on an arm that swings down from the top and straddles the blade just above the
thing you're going to cut. The arm is slide adjustable on a finger bolt so that you
get a full range for thicknesses.

Is the tension OK ? The tension needs to be pulling the blade until the point when
you ping the band it rings like a crystal glass and doesn't sound like a thud. I've
had a band saw blade singing in top C before. )


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I have noted the other posts but was wondering one thing. The instructions
said adjust the rubbing block 1.5mm behind the teeth but didn't say whether
this was the root of the tooth or the tip of the teeth. I set them about
1.5mm from the root of the tooth. Should these blocks be nearer the tip of
the teeth?
Kevin

 

[BigWallop]

I have noted the other posts but was wondering one thing. The instructions
said adjust the rubbing block 1.5mm behind the teeth but didn't say whether
this was the root of the tooth or the tip of the teeth. I set them about
1.5mm from the root of the tooth. Should these blocks be nearer the tip of
the teeth?
Kevin

The measure of 1.5 millimetres is about right because the blade actually moves in
toward the block when you begin to the cut. But the most important point is the
thickness of the material you're cutting and the top block. If you leave the blade
with a huge free space above the material the blade will begin to wobble around and
run way off the cutting line. So if you're cutting something 50 mm thick on the table
then the top block needs to be set at 60 mm from the table to keep the blade straight
at it point you need it to start the cut.

Remember too that the type of blade of blade is important for different materials.
Wood needs a blade with splade teeth to make clearance around the cut and help to keep
the blade from heating to much and expanding and going slack. Things like plastics
need a fine toothed blade so that they stay on track and don't cause chipping to the
edges of the materials.


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[Andrew Mawson]

just
above the
I have noted the other posts but was wondering one thing. The instructions
said adjust the rubbing block 1.5mm behind the teeth but didn't say whether
this was the root of the tooth or the tip of the teeth. I set them about
1.5mm from the root of the tooth. Should these blocks be nearer the tip of
the teeth?
Kevin

Kevin,

They need to be fully behind the teeth so the entire toothform is exposed,
or they will iron out the set on the blade if they are tight enough together
to guide the blade.

Andrew Mawson