4"block v 4" thermolite


A

Alan J

What are the pros + cons, besides the price, Its for a single skin garage
/workshop.
tia
Alan
 
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G

Grunff

Alan said:
What are the pros + cons, besides the price, Its for a single skin garage
/workshop.
I've built garage-type outbuildings in both concrete blocks and
thermalites.

Block is harder, cheaper (40p versus ~80p/block) and results in
a more solid feeling wall.

Thermalites are much lighter (1/3 the weight), much easier to
cut, a lot less hard work to lay, and more insulating.

The last building we did was thermalites, and the next one will
certainly also be thermalites.

While you're at it, consider using thin-join techniques (read up
on the thermalite website). Really speeds things up.
 
T

The Natural Philosopher

Alan said:
What are the pros + cons, besides the price, Its for a single skin garage
/workshop.
tia
Alan
Not much,. Thermalite is warmer and easier to drill

Its lighter to lay, but needs rendering. It soaks up water from mortatr
badly.


Concrete is tougher, and can be painted or just left.
 
G

Grunff

The said:
Its lighter to lay, but needs rendering. It soaks up water from mortatr
badly.

Concrete is tougher, and can be painted or just left.
IME they both soak up water pretty badly. Rendering helps a bit,
but not all that much. We've taken the approach of 3 coats of
textured masonry paint straight onto the block, which works
really well.
 
G

Grunff

Mark said:
Soak up water in what way?
Like any porous material does.

When you are laying them or afterwards when raining etc.
Both. It's not problematic until you've finished the garage and
you have really wet walls, which result in a very humid interior.

Asking as I've the same to do sometime in the future and was going to
start aquiring blocks or bricks in advance.
Personally, I'd never use bricks in place of blocks - life's too
short. A couple of good coats of masonry paint on the outside
completely waterproofs the block.
 
M

Mark S.

IME they both soak up water pretty badly. Rendering helps a bit,
but not all that much. We've taken the approach of 3 coats of
textured masonry paint straight onto the block, which works
really well.
Soak up water in what way?

When you are laying them or afterwards when raining etc.

Asking as I've the same to do sometime in the future and was going to
start aquiring blocks or bricks in advance.

Mark S.
 
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A

Alan J

Thanks for your input folks. Thermalite sounds good to me.
Rgds
Alan
 
D

David Hemmings

Like any porous material does.



Both. It's not problematic until you've finished the garage and
you have really wet walls, which result in a very humid interior.



Personally, I'd never use bricks in place of blocks - life's too
short. A couple of good coats of masonry paint on the outside
completely waterproofs the block.
And that applies to thermalites/durox ? i was on the verge of asking
something like this.

I have been in a quandry over using thermalites or heavy concrete,
heavy concrete as it wouldn't need rendering vs thermalites for their
lightness, ease of cutting to size, and good insulating properties.
But if a few coats of masonary paint and maybe a liberal coat of
silicone will do the trick i think that steals it.

I am still working on the garage i was rambling on about march 2002, a
close family illness effectively stopped my work (and everything else)
for the best part of a year. But i have about one day left of digging
my footings (6.3m2 base 1200mm x 600mm), done the soakaway hole that
is failing to empty out copmpletely (possible high water table
possibly clay stopping drainage) i was thinking of using a plastic
pre-cast chamber from http://www.polypipecivils.co.uk/ but the lazy
buggers didn't reply to my email yet.

The concrete i am planning to mix myself onsite, one of the local
planing staff have said that i can cast the footings in legs
(obviously not terminating in the corners). Breaking the job down
into 4 parts will make quite manageable. Me + brother have mixed a
few 4 tonne batches for shoring up in about 2.5h a time. Will be a
great saving over readymix + pump hire.

Hopefully be reporting back good progress soon ....
 
G

Grunff

David said:
And that applies to thermalites/durox ? i was on the verge of asking
something like this.
Yes. If you're not going to render, buy smooth faced
thermalites. They take the paint very nicely.

I have been in a quandry over using thermalites or heavy concrete,
heavy concrete as it wouldn't need rendering vs thermalites for their
lightness, ease of cutting to size, and good insulating properties.
But if a few coats of masonary paint and maybe a liberal coat of
silicone will do the trick i think that steals it.
Worked well for us on a garage and a hay shed.

The concrete i am planning to mix myself onsite, one of the local
planing staff have said that i can cast the footings in legs
(obviously not terminating in the corners). Breaking the job down
into 4 parts will make quite manageable. Me + brother have mixed a
few 4 tonne batches for shoring up in about 2.5h a time. Will be a
great saving over readymix + pump hire.
How very energetic of you ;-) I went for the easy premixed route.
 
I

IMM

Grunff said:
Yes. If you're not going to render, buy smooth faced
thermalites. They take the paint very nicely.



Worked well for us on a garage and a hay shed.



How very energetic of you ;-) I went for the easy premixed route.
"Very" light weight Thermally blocks are available in double thickness. You
will have well insulated structure then, that keeps heat in and cold out.
Have an insulated sealed garage door.
 
D

David Hemmings

Yes. If you're not going to render, buy smooth faced
thermalites. They take the paint very nicely.



Worked well for us on a garage and a hay shed.



How very energetic of you ;-) I went for the easy premixed route.
Damn, i cannot believe the last chance i had to have a look here was
the 12th, almost another month gone. Still filling skips with the
dirt dug from the trench and soakway pit.

Also been busy finishing off those stupid small irritating snags you
always get at the end of jobs. the frequency of ear bashing by the
SWMBO has reduced in line with these being completed. Now onto more
esoteric things like why do the rear surround speakers have to be so
large, do we need to amplifiers. basically the whole AV setup is under
dispute, after much discuassion i have been given carte blanche to get
more expensive 'tidier' components.

Also just finished off the hallway last night at about 10pm, the other
half very pleased.. when i got in this evening one of the normally
nice cats had shredded, by the looks of it, a baby song/missile thrush
all over the hallway
 
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I am new to this building material and i have a question i have been looking in to making my house as much energy efficient as possible and i was looking into building my hole house out pf 6" thermalite bricks but i have been reading defferent forums and don't really now if i should go foword and use thermalite or regular bricks
 

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