220 saw & dust collector wiring question


T

Tom

I have a Grizzly G0444Z table saw and a G1029Z dust collector. Both run on
220. The saw cord has a green wire which is ground and a red and black which
are both hot and the dust collector cord has the same. Both draw 15 to 20
amps. I have 12/2 with ground
romex cable (white, black and bare ground wires). I was told by Grizzly to
use a 20 amp/220 double breakers on both and 12/2WG and color the white wire
as black or red. I think they said each motor has capacitors, what ever that
means. What confuses me is in the past when I wired a 220 circuit I always
used 12/3WG ( red, black, and white with a bare ground wire). Have any of
you wired your saw or other machinery like Grizzly told me to? In addition
to grounding my dust collector vacuum lines I was thinking that I would go a
head and run a ground wire on each unit to the cold water pipe for added
protection. I would appreciate any advice you could offer me. Thanks a lot.
 
Ad

Advertisements

Z

zxcvbob

Tom said:
I have a Grizzly G0444Z table saw and a G1029Z dust collector. Both run on
220. The saw cord has a green wire which is ground and a red and black which
are both hot and the dust collector cord has the same. Both draw 15 to 20
amps. I have 12/2 with ground
romex cable (white, black and bare ground wires). I was told by Grizzly to
use a 20 amp/220 double breakers on both and 12/2WG and color the white wire
as black or red. I think they said each motor has capacitors, what ever that
means. What confuses me is in the past when I wired a 220 circuit I always
used 12/3WG ( red, black, and white with a bare ground wire). Have any of
you wired your saw or other machinery like Grizzly told me to? In addition
to grounding my dust collector vacuum lines I was thinking that I would go a
head and run a ground wire on each unit to the cold water pipe for added
protection. I would appreciate any advice you could offer me. Thanks a lot.

If you were using conduit and seperate conductors, you would use 3
wires: black, red (or a 2nd black) and green (or bare). Since you are
using a 12/2 cable, you can use the white wire for one of the "hot"
conductors if you wrap black, red, or blue tape around the ends of the
insulation or paint with some red nail polish.

The ground wire in the cable should be adequate; don't mess with the
water pipes.

If you are using plastic pipe for the vacuum lines, run a bare wire (it
doesn't matter what size) inside the lines from end-to-end and ground to
the metal housing somewhere to dissipate static.

HTH :)

-Bob
 
T

toller

All things being equal, it is better to use 12/3. You have no use for the
neutral (the white wire) now, but some day you might, and it is no harder to
run 12/3 than 12/2. It gives you the option of having 120v for a light or
something if you need it. I ran 12/2 and regret it.

However, if you run 12/2, Grizzly is correct. Just use the two insulated
conductors as your hots, no neutral needed.

I haven't grounded my "vacuum" lines, but some people do.

Are you sure the tools take 20a at 240v? What are they, 4hp?!
 
T

Terry

Tom said:
I have a Grizzly G0444Z table saw and a G1029Z dust collector. Both run on
220. The saw cord has a green wire which is ground and a red and black which
are both hot and the dust collector cord has the same. Both draw 15 to 20
amps. I have 12/2 with ground
romex cable (white, black and bare ground wires). I was told by Grizzly to
use a 20 amp/220 double breakers on both and 12/2WG and color the white wire
as black or red. I think they said each motor has capacitors, what ever that
means. What confuses me is in the past when I wired a 220 circuit I always
used 12/3WG ( red, black, and white with a bare ground wire). Have any of
you wired your saw or other machinery like Grizzly told me to? In addition
to grounding my dust collector vacuum lines I was thinking that I would go a
head and run a ground wire on each unit to the cold water pipe for added
protection. I would appreciate any advice you could offer me. Thanks a lot.
If the dust collector is also 220 volt then could be wired same Red/Black
and a ground, same as the 220v. saw.
AIUI Various electrical codes allow one to use White/Black instead of
Red/Black.
But if white is used as 'one side/leg' of 220 then it should be
taped/sleeved and/or colour coded to clearly show that wire is being used
instead of a red wire.
In other words if you don't need to wire a neutral you don't.
Typically our 220 volt hot water tank does not use a neutral, neither does
our 220 volt dryer; so the white wire is left disconnected. Our 230 volt
stove DOES use the white neutral.
Our 220 volt bench saw, which can be mover around a little, has a heavy
White/Black flex with a green ground. White is one 'side' and black the
other of the 220 volts.
 
Ad

Advertisements

T

Terry

"
Don't do this. You could be creating a dangerous situation. In many
homes the cold water pipe is not a suitable ground and some errors could
cause them to go live. Unlikely but possible. Just use the ground provided
by the circuit.
I agree with the Irish tiger. Don't.
If bonding to cold water or other services is required my understanding also
is that it is done once at the main service entrance panel. Not random
connections to piping that may or may not be contiguous through the house
plumbing back to a cold water supply system that itself may or may not be a
good electrical ground.
AIUI this is not the same thing as a requirements, in some countries, to
electrically 'bond' together certain metal pipes etc. within say a bathroom
where there are electrical appliances, to avoid voltage differences, in the
event of a fault within that area.
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Top