Read this advice before re-roofing and rain gutter installation.

Discussion in 'Home Repair' started by Molly Brown, Dec 25, 2010.

  1. Molly Brown

    Molly Brown Guest

    If you’re going to install or replace rain gutters or going to re-
    roof I strongly recommend using gutter hangers that have a strap. Try
    to avoid using the other types of hangers as much as possible. Here is
    an image link to the types of rain gutter hangers:

    http://images.oldhouseweb.com/stories/bitmaps/10162/fig5678.gif

    All types of hangers that do not have straps will eventually sag and
    leak from the weight of the water in the gutter and the fact that they
    are fastened to the edge of the eave which is the area most
    susceptible to wood rot and deterioration. The strapped hangers are
    secured to the top of the eave and not the edge. Since the straps have
    to be secured to the top of the eave it is a good idea to have the
    straps installed when ever replacing your roof especially if you’re
    having a tile roof put on so that they are not visible. You should
    have straps installed even if you’re not going to replace your rain
    gutters so that one day if you do they will be ready.
     
    Molly Brown, Dec 25, 2010
    #1
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  2. Molly Brown

    mm Guest

    On Fri, 24 Dec 2010 17:26:35 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
    <> wrote:

    >If you’re going to install or replace rain gutters or going to re-
    >roof I strongly recommend using gutter hangers that have a strap. Try
    >to avoid using the other types of hangers as much as possible. Here is
    >an image link to the types of rain gutter hangers:
    >
    >http://images.oldhouseweb.com/stories/bitmaps/10162/fig5678.gif
    >
    >All types of hangers that do not have straps will eventually sag and
    >leak from the weight of the water in the gutter and the fact that they
    >are fastened to the edge of the eave which is the area most
    >susceptible to wood rot and deterioration. The strapped hangers are
    >secured to the top of the eave and not the edge. Since the straps have
    >to be secured to the top of the eave it is a good idea to have the
    >straps installed when ever replacing your roof especially if you’re
    >having a tile roof put on so that they are not visible. You should
    >have straps installed even if you’re not going to replace your rain
    >gutters so that one day if you do they will be ready.


    Good advice, I think.

    Do they come already in brown?

    If the roof doesn't need new shingles, wouldn't it be possible to
    shorten the strap to an inch or two under the shingles, then lift the
    shingle (if it's not yet too brittle) to put a nail in, top with a
    metal plate and hammer on the shingle/plate/nail, using the plate to
    keep from breaking the shingle.

    Even one nail only an inch from the edge ought to be enough to hold
    the gutter up for 10 or 20 years, no? Since the force on the nail
    will be perpendicular to it, parallel to the roof.

    I've done a lot of weirdo things like that and they usually work.

    I went 25 years on my first shingles and asked the roofer to hammer in
    the gutter spikes when he was up there, but he didn't' suggest these
    strapped hangers. He did everything else I asked, but without having
    watched, I can't tell if he did this. It wouldn't have mattered
    because soon after the spikes on the south side of the house were lose
    and I replaced them all with gutter screws. They held well, but there
    may be sagging again 6 years later. The gutters on the north side of
    the house are fine, I think. I looked at them to replace the spikes
    with screws, and I don't remember if I did it or not, but if so, they
    were pretty tight already and I figured screws are bound to be better
    than nails.
     
    mm, Dec 25, 2010
    #2
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