Re: re felting a shed roof

Discussion in 'Misc DIY' started by BigWallop, Nov 22, 2008.

  1. BigWallop

    BigWallop Guest

    "Dave" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    > felting blown off.
    >
    > My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is this
    > good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing before?
    >
    > Plus, any tips on doing the job
    >
    > Dave
    >


    Start at the eaves and work up to the top. Apply felt adhesive, or liquid
    felt, liberally all over the roof. Apply the first row of felt over the
    eaves. Leave a few inches over the edges to form tucks so the rain drips
    away from the walls of the shed. Leave a couple of inches on overlaps so
    the water runs onto and not under the previous row of felt.

    Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or so inches along all the
    edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on top of all
    joints. Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. All mineral crumbs can
    be collected to cover the nail heads and camouflage them.

    The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt adhesive and then
    nailed to make it stronger and last longer.
     
    BigWallop, Nov 22, 2008
    #1
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  2. BigWallop

    Tim Lamb Guest

    In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    <> writes
    >
    >"Dave" <> wrote in message
    >news:...
    >> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    >> felting blown off.
    >>
    >> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is this
    >> good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing before?
    >>
    >> Plus, any tips on doing the job
    >>
    >> Dave
    >>

    >
    >Start at the eaves and work up to the top. Apply felt adhesive, or liquid
    >felt, liberally all over the roof. Apply the first row of felt over the
    >eaves. Leave a few inches over the edges to form tucks so the rain drips
    >away from the walls of the shed. Leave a couple of inches on overlaps so
    >the water runs onto and not under the previous row of felt.
    >
    >Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or so inches along all the
    >edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on top of all
    >joints. Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. All mineral crumbs can
    >be collected to cover the nail heads and camouflage them.
    >
    >The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt adhesive and then
    >nailed to make it stronger and last longer.


    All above and....

    Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart, up and down the
    slope to stop wind lift.

    By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    form a strong edge/drip.

    regards
    >
    >
    >


    --
    Tim Lamb
     
    Tim Lamb, Nov 22, 2008
    #2
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  3. BigWallop

    Cash Guest

    Tim Lamb wrote:
    > In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    > <> writes
    >>
    >> "Dave" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    >>> felting blown off.
    >>>
    >>> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is
    >>> this good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing
    >>> before? Plus, any tips on doing the job
    >>>
    >>> Dave
    >>>

    >>
    >> Start at the eaves and work up to the top. Apply felt adhesive, or
    >> liquid felt, liberally all over the roof. Apply the first row of
    >> felt over the eaves. Leave a few inches over the edges to form
    >> tucks so the rain drips away from the walls of the shed. Leave a
    >> couple of inches on overlaps so the water runs onto and not under
    >> the previous row of felt. Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or
    >> so inches along all
    >> the edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on
    >> top of all joints. Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. All
    >> mineral crumbs can be collected to cover the nail heads and
    >> camouflage them. The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt
    >> adhesive and
    >> then nailed to make it stronger and last longer.

    >
    > All above and....
    >
    > Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart, up and down the
    > slope to stop wind lift.
    >
    > By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    > form a strong edge/drip.
    >
    > regards


    "strong edge/drip" - its called a welted drip and if you are using the green
    mineralised felt, it is sensible to lightly heat this with a blow torch on
    the actual 'bend' to avoid cracking during the 'turn-over' operation.
     
    Cash, Nov 22, 2008
    #3
  4. BigWallop

    robgraham Guest

    On 22 Nov, 19:52, Dave <> wrote:
    > Tim Lamb wrote:
    > > In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    > > <> writes

    >
    > >> "Dave" <> wrote in message
    > >>news:...
    > >>> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    > >>> felting blown off.

    >
    > >>> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is this
    > >>> good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing before?

    >
    > >>> Plus, any tips on doing the job

    >
    > >>> Dave

    >
    > >> Start at the eaves and work up to the top.  Apply felt adhesive, or
    > >> liquid
    > >> felt, liberally all over the roof.  Apply the first row of felt overthe
    > >> eaves.  Leave a few inches over the edges to form tucks so the rain drips
    > >> away from the walls of the shed.  Leave a couple of inches on overlaps so
    > >> the water runs onto and not under the previous row of felt.

    >
    > >> Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or so inches along all the
    > >> edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on top of
    > >> all
    > >> joints.  Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush.  All mineral
    > >> crumbs can
    > >> be collected to cover the nail heads and camouflage them.

    >
    > >> The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt adhesive and then
    > >> nailed to make it stronger and last longer.

    >
    > > All above and....

    >
    > > Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart,  up and down the
    > > slope to stop wind lift.

    >
    > > By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    > > form a strong edge/drip.

    >
    > Thanks for the additional info.
    >
    > Dave


    Dave
    I'm not accusing those who have replied of not having done a re-
    felting job in winter, but having done a similar repair situation some
    years ago and had to work all day and well into dark (7pm on a cold
    winter's night !!), I would strongly recommend that you consider
    avoiding using felt. You are going to be faced with trying to apply
    an adhesive that is very temperature sensitive in terms of its
    capacity to flow and hence be painted on, and will need to be warmed
    considerably to be useable.

    You will find that if you go to any of the Sheds you can get sheets of
    Onduline. The accumulative price is not going to be that much
    different from using felt properly, and the effort to install it is
    minimal which is critical at this time of year. If you haven't done
    felting before, avoid it under these circumstances and go with the
    corrugated material - not much different in price and so much easier
    to put on. I've just done a 5m x 3m roof with it and it took a short
    afternoon.

    Rob
     
    robgraham, Nov 22, 2008
    #4
  5. BigWallop

    Guest

    robgraham wrote:
    > On 22 Nov, 19:52, Dave <> wrote:
    > > Tim Lamb wrote:
    > > > In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    > > > <> writes

    > >
    > > >> "Dave" <> wrote in message
    > > >>news:...
    > > >>> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    > > >>> felting blown off.

    > >
    > > >>> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is this
    > > >>> good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing before?

    > >
    > > >>> Plus, any tips on doing the job

    > >
    > > >>> Dave

    > >
    > > >> Start at the eaves and work up to the top. �Apply felt adhesive, or
    > > >> liquid
    > > >> felt, liberally all over the roof. �Apply the first row of felt over the
    > > >> eaves. �Leave a few inches over the edges to form tucks so the rain drips
    > > >> away from the walls of the shed. �Leave a couple of inches on overlaps so
    > > >> the water runs onto and not under the previous row of felt.

    > >
    > > >> Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or so inches along all the
    > > >> edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on top of
    > > >> all
    > > >> joints. �Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. �All mineral
    > > >> crumbs can
    > > >> be collected to cover the nail heads and camouflage them.

    > >
    > > >> The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt adhesive and then
    > > >> nailed to make it stronger and last longer.

    > >
    > > > All above and....

    > >
    > > > Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart, �up anddown the
    > > > slope to stop wind lift.

    > >
    > > > By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    > > > form a strong edge/drip.

    > >
    > > Thanks for the additional info.
    > >
    > > Dave

    >
    > Dave
    > I'm not accusing those who have replied of not having done a re-
    > felting job in winter, but having done a similar repair situation some
    > years ago and had to work all day and well into dark (7pm on a cold
    > winter's night !!), I would strongly recommend that you consider
    > avoiding using felt. You are going to be faced with trying to apply
    > an adhesive that is very temperature sensitive in terms of its
    > capacity to flow and hence be painted on, and will need to be warmed
    > considerably to be useable.
    >
    > You will find that if you go to any of the Sheds you can get sheets of
    > Onduline. The accumulative price is not going to be that much
    > different from using felt properly, and the effort to install it is
    > minimal which is critical at this time of year. If you haven't done
    > felting before, avoid it under these circumstances and go with the
    > corrugated material - not much different in price and so much easier
    > to put on. I've just done a 5m x 3m roof with it and it took a short
    > afternoon.
    >
    > Rob


    If the gloop goes stiff, it can be thinned with a lttle paraffin.
    Ultimately it can just be wiped on solid if necessary, just press down
    hard to stick.

    Go for a modern felt, trad felts stiffen right up in cold weather.


    NT
     
    , Nov 22, 2008
    #5
  6. BigWallop

    BigWallop Guest

    "Cash" <.............\\@...............//.com> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Tim Lamb wrote:
    > > In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    > > <> writes
    > >>
    > >> "Dave" <> wrote in message
    > >> news:...
    > >>> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    > >>> felting blown off.
    > >>>
    > >>> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is
    > >>> this good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing
    > >>> before? Plus, any tips on doing the job
    > >>>
    > >>> Dave
    > >>>
    > >>
    > >> Start at the eaves and work up to the top. Apply felt adhesive, or
    > >> liquid felt, liberally all over the roof. Apply the first row of
    > >> felt over the eaves. Leave a few inches over the edges to form
    > >> tucks so the rain drips away from the walls of the shed. Leave a
    > >> couple of inches on overlaps so the water runs onto and not under
    > >> the previous row of felt. Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6

    or
    > >> so inches along all
    > >> the edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on
    > >> top of all joints. Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. All
    > >> mineral crumbs can be collected to cover the nail heads and
    > >> camouflage them. The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt
    > >> adhesive and
    > >> then nailed to make it stronger and last longer.

    > >
    > > All above and....
    > >
    > > Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart, up and down the
    > > slope to stop wind lift.
    > >
    > > By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    > > form a strong edge/drip.
    > >
    > > regards

    >
    > "strong edge/drip" - its called a welted drip and if you are using the

    green
    > mineralised felt, it is sensible to lightly heat this with a blow torch on
    > the actual 'bend' to avoid cracking during the 'turn-over' operation.
    >

    A Welted Edge. That's it. I was going to call it a Welp. :) Isn't it
    luck a red face only lasts for a second. lol
     
    BigWallop, Nov 22, 2008
    #6
  7. BigWallop

    BigWallop Guest

    "Dave" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Tim Lamb wrote:
    > > In message <dFYVk.91393$>, BigWallop
    > > <> writes
    > >>
    > >> "Dave" <> wrote in message
    > >> news:...
    > >>> In the winds last week, our little wooden shed had part of its roof
    > >>> felting blown off.
    > >>>
    > >>> My local building suppliers have mentioned using felt adhesive. Is

    this
    > >>> good advice for some one who has never done this sort of thing before?
    > >>>
    > >>> Plus, any tips on doing the job
    > >>>
    > >>> Dave
    > >>>
    > >>
    > >> Start at the eaves and work up to the top. Apply felt adhesive, or
    > >> liquid
    > >> felt, liberally all over the roof. Apply the first row of felt over

    the
    > >> eaves. Leave a few inches over the edges to form tucks so the rain

    drips
    > >> away from the walls of the shed. Leave a couple of inches on overlaps

    so
    > >> the water runs onto and not under the previous row of felt.
    > >>
    > >> Use large head felt (roofing) nails every 6 or so inches along all the
    > >> edges, and try to use liquid felt or felt adhesive under and on top of
    > >> all
    > >> joints. Apply liquid felt with an old paint brush. All mineral
    > >> crumbs can
    > >> be collected to cover the nail heads and camouflage them.
    > >>
    > >> The top ridge felt covering should be stuck with felt adhesive and then
    > >> nailed to make it stronger and last longer.

    > >
    > > All above and....
    > >
    > > Use mineralised felt and fit thin battens, 18" apart, up and down the
    > > slope to stop wind lift.
    > >
    > > By tucks, I think BW meant to say double the felt back under itself to
    > > form a strong edge/drip.
    > >
    > > regards

    >
    > Not having been able to look at the lee ward side today to see how the
    > original was done, I suspect that it was just overlapped to the down
    > side and left a bit longer than the batten that held it in place. Would
    > this do the job, considering the weather is so cold? Or I could leave it
    > long, hope the wind left it that way and roll it in spring.
    >
    > Dave
    >


    Try bending the felt cold to see how much radius it will allow. Leave that
    much over and bend it round to get a drip form. In the warmer weather you
    can tidy it up a bit more. Even in these cold conditions, the felt should
    bend through quite a tight radius without cracking.
     
    BigWallop, Nov 23, 2008
    #7
  8. BigWallop

    Tim Lamb Guest

    In message <XlkWk.91943$>, BigWallop
    <> writes
    >>
    >> Not having been able to look at the lee ward side today to see how the
    >> original was done, I suspect that it was just overlapped to the down
    >> side and left a bit longer than the batten that held it in place. Would
    >> this do the job, considering the weather is so cold? Or I could leave it
    >> long, hope the wind left it that way and roll it in spring.
    >>
    >> Dave
    >>

    >
    >Try bending the felt cold to see how much radius it will allow. Leave that
    >much over and bend it round to get a drip form. In the warmer weather you
    >can tidy it up a bit more. Even in these cold conditions, the felt should
    >bend through quite a tight radius without cracking.


    I have a B&D hot air paint stripper which has little effect on paint but
    works wonders on bending plastics and unfreezing pipes.

    Try bending an offcut and see how it goes.

    Wait till she is out and borrow the hair drier:)

    regards
    >
    >
    >


    --
    Tim Lamb
     
    Tim Lamb, Nov 23, 2008
    #8
  9. BigWallop

    Tim Lamb Guest

    In message <>, Dave
    <> writes
    >
    >> I have a B&D hot air paint stripper which has little effect on paint
    >>but works wonders on bending plastics and unfreezing pipes.
    >> Try bending an offcut and see how it goes.
    >> Wait till she is out and borrow the hair drier:)

    >
    >Paint stripper gets hotter than that. Any idea how much heat felt can
    >take? I wont be doing the job till next year anyway, I'm not well
    >enough to be outside all the time it will take.


    Very much depends on the felt you are using. As others have said, some
    are designed to have the contact side *melted* by contact with a large
    direct flame from a torch.

    Simply bending should not need much more than warm. You will have to
    experiment. Working off the ground, applying heat to a narrow but long
    strip really needs a hand portable heat source. I have not tried but a
    plumbers soldering torch with a diffuse flame, kept moving, might do.

    regards

    --
    Tim Lamb
     
    Tim Lamb, Nov 25, 2008
    #9
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