Plumbing leaking radiator valve.

Discussion in 'Misc DIY' started by Bazzer Smith, Feb 25, 2009.

  1. Bazzer Smith

    Bazzer Smith Guest

    Hi,
    Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top of
    the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for off,
    fairly basic stuff).


    I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?

    Or is it just a washer?

    Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

    Any help or advice appreciated.
    Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it sets in
    ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with the inner tube
    thing?

    Looks disconcertingly like one of these-

    http://www.screwfix.com/prods/85665...iator Valve Chrome 15mm Pack of 10&source=aw#
    Bazzer Smith, Feb 25, 2009
    #1
  2. Bazzer Smith

    Bob Minchin Guest

    Bazzer Smith wrote:
    > Hi,
    > Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top of
    > the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for off,
    > fairly basic stuff).
    >
    >
    > I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    > valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >
    > Or is it just a washer?
    >
    > Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    > hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    > Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    > Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >
    > Any help or advice appreciated.
    > Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    > I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    > innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    > the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    > I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it sets in
    > ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with the inner tube
    > thing?
    >
    > Looks disconcertingly like one of these-
    >
    > http://www.screwfix.com/prods/85665...iator Valve Chrome 15mm Pack of 10&source=aw#
    >
    >

    Try tightening the gland nut. this is the small hex nut under the
    plastic knob.
    Bob Minchin, Feb 25, 2009
    #2
  3. Bazzer Smith

    Roger Mills Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Bazzer Smith <> wrote:

    > Hi,
    > Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
    > of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
    > off, fairly basic stuff).
    >
    >
    > I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    > valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >


    It will be a 15mm pipe.


    > Or is it just a washer?
    >
    > Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    > hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    > Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    > Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >
    > Any help or advice appreciated.
    > Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    > I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    > innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    > the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    > I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
    > sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
    > the inner tube thing?
    >

    A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
    cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
    there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle? If so,
    under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to form a
    seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may be
    sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off and
    then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle and
    replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
    tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

    If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
    you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that is
    the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be drained.
    Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your questions
    suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which case it may be
    safer to pay a plumber to do it.
    --
    Cheers,
    Roger
    ______
    Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
    monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
    PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
    Roger Mills, Feb 25, 2009
    #3
  4. Bazzer Smith

    Bazzer Smith Guest

    "Roger Mills" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    > Bazzer Smith <> wrote:
    >
    >> Hi,
    >> Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
    >> of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
    >> off, fairly basic stuff).
    >>
    >>
    >> I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    >> valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >>

    >
    > It will be a 15mm pipe.
    >
    >
    >> Or is it just a washer?
    >>
    >> Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    >> hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    >> Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    >> Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >>
    >> Any help or advice appreciated.
    >> Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    >> I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    >> innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    >> the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    >> I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
    >> sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
    >> the inner tube thing?
    >>

    > A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
    > cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
    > there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle?


    Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
    seemed
    fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper spanner
    or I will
    bugger the nut.

    > If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
    > form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may
    > be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off
    > and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle
    > and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
    > tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.


    I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking into
    a bowl
    upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine untill
    then.
    Thanks for your help.

    >
    > If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
    > you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that
    > is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be
    > drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
    > questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
    > case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.


    I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs myself
    before.
    Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.

    > --
    > Cheers,
    > Roger
    > ______
    > Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
    > monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
    > PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
    >
    Bazzer Smith, Feb 25, 2009
    #4
  5. Bazzer Smith

    John Guest

    "Bazzer Smith" <> wrote in message
    news:A9jpl.24571$2...
    >
    > "Roger Mills" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    >> Bazzer Smith <> wrote:
    >>
    >>> Hi,
    >>> Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
    >>> of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
    >>> off, fairly basic stuff).
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    >>> valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >>>

    >>
    >> It will be a 15mm pipe.
    >>
    >>
    >>> Or is it just a washer?
    >>>
    >>> Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    >>> hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    >>> Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    >>> Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >>>
    >>> Any help or advice appreciated.
    >>> Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    >>> I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    >>> innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    >>> the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    >>> I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
    >>> sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
    >>> the inner tube thing?
    >>>

    >> A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
    >> cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off,
    >> is there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle?

    >
    > Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
    > seemed
    > fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper spanner
    > or I will
    > bugger the nut.
    >
    >> If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
    >> form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit
    >> may be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve
    >> off and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the
    >> spindle and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's
    >> housing, and tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

    >
    > I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking
    > into a bowl
    > upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine
    > untill then.
    > Thanks for your help.
    >
    >>
    >> If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland
    >> nuts - you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced.
    >> If that is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to
    >> be drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
    >> questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
    >> case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.

    >
    > I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs myself
    > before.
    > Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.
    >
    >> --
    >> Cheers,
    >> Roger
    >> ______
    >> Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
    >> monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
    >> PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
    >>

    >
    >


    If it won't tighten then follow the previous instructions about using string
    (although I would prefer twisted PTFE tape).
    John, Feb 25, 2009
    #5
  6. Bazzer Smith

    Bazzer Smith Guest

    "John" <> wrote in message
    news:nAjpl.19338$2...
    >
    > "Bazzer Smith" <> wrote in message
    > news:A9jpl.24571$2...
    >>
    >> "Roger Mills" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    >>> Bazzer Smith <> wrote:
    >>>
    >>>> Hi,
    >>>> Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
    >>>> of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
    >>>> off, fairly basic stuff).
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    >>>> valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>> It will be a 15mm pipe.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>> Or is it just a washer?
    >>>>
    >>>> Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    >>>> hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    >>>> Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    >>>> Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >>>>
    >>>> Any help or advice appreciated.
    >>>> Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    >>>> I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    >>>> innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    >>>> the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    >>>> I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
    >>>> sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
    >>>> the inner tube thing?
    >>>>
    >>> A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the
    >>> white cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and
    >>> off, is there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the
    >>> spindle?

    >>
    >> Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
    >> seemed
    >> fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper
    >> spanner or I will
    >> bugger the nut.
    >>
    >>> If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
    >>> form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit
    >>> may be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve
    >>> off and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the
    >>> spindle and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's
    >>> housing, and tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

    >>
    >> I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking
    >> into a bowl
    >> upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine
    >> untill then.
    >> Thanks for your help.
    >>
    >>>
    >>> If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland
    >>> nuts - you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced.
    >>> If that is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to
    >>> be drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
    >>> questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
    >>> case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.

    >>
    >> I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs
    >> myself before.
    >> Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.
    >>
    >>> --
    >>> Cheers,
    >>> Roger
    >>> ______
    >>> Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
    >>> monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
    >>> PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
    >>>

    >>
    >>

    >
    > If it won't tighten then follow the previous instructions about using
    > string (although I would prefer twisted PTFE tape).


    Well I decided to 'bite the bullet and have a look at it tonight.
    I had left the valve open which I decided was a bad idea so I need
    to remove my cycle innertube and string bandage anyway.
    I though I would have a go at loosening that nut as I now had the right
    spanner, I figured I would be OK not draining the system with the valve
    closed so there was not too much water.
    Anyway I got it off and had a look at it as it was seeping water.
    Fortunately I remembered my brother had left me some PTFE tape!
    I had never used the stuff before so it was a but weird, not sticky
    as I expected but anyway I wrapped it around the spindle a bit as instructed
    and put the nut back on and tightened it up. Much to my relief it stopped
    leaking!! Seems as dry as a bone now and there is no leak in the kitched.
    I have left the valve closed for now I will try opening it tomorrow I
    hope/expect it will be OK. I'm lucky the weather is a bit better as I can
    leave
    the radiator off for now.
    Magic stuff that ptfe tape! Saved me a trip to B&Q I hope!

    Thanks very much to everyone for their help, much appreciated!!




    >
    Bazzer Smith, Feb 25, 2009
    #6
  7. Bazzer Smith

    Bazzer Smith Guest

    "Roger Mills" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    > Bazzer Smith <> wrote:
    >
    >> Hi,
    >> Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
    >> of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
    >> off, fairly basic stuff).
    >>
    >>
    >> I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
    >> valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?
    >>

    >
    > It will be a 15mm pipe.
    >
    >
    >> Or is it just a washer?
    >>
    >> Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
    >> hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
    >> Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
    >> Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.
    >>
    >> Any help or advice appreciated.
    >> Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
    >> I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
    >> innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
    >> the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
    >> I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
    >> sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
    >> the inner tube thing?
    >>

    > A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
    > cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
    > there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle? If
    > so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to form
    > a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may be
    > sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off and
    > then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle and
    > replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
    > tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.
    >
    > If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
    > you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that
    > is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be
    > drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
    > questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
    > case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.




    Thanks very much for your help it seems to be sorted now as explained
    in my my reply to John. I did have some PTFE tape and it seems to have
    done the trick!!

    > --
    > Cheers,
    > Roger
    > ______
    > Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
    > monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
    > PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
    >
    Bazzer Smith, Feb 25, 2009
    #7

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