Metal paint for rusty fire escape

Discussion in 'Misc DIY' started by Steve Firth, Aug 14, 2004.

  1. Steve Firth

    Steve Firth Guest

    John Smith <> wrote:

    > Anyhow, I think it is in danger of rusting through so I am going to get a
    > drill and a rust attachment on it in the next few days


    YOu would be better advised to get an angle grinder and wire brush. Much
    faster and more thorough than an electric drill. If you choose this
    route, the andle grinders are fairly cheap - can be as cheap as £10 to
    buy. You will also need leather gloves and goggles, probably hearing
    protectors as well.

    It's the only decent way to prepare metal for painting.

    Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
    outdoor paint is as good as anything.

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    Steve Firth, Aug 14, 2004
    #1
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  2. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    Hi,

    I have a rusty rear fire escape which I have refused to paint for about 10
    years... i.e. it was galvanised metal and my Mum, God bless her, insisted on
    painting it wit the end result it needed to be painted on a regular basis...

    Anyhow, I think it is in danger of rusting through so I am going to get a
    drill and a rust attachment on it in the next few days and then I will have
    to paint it. I am looking for tips for metal painter/primer/rust treatment
    for it. I am considering Hammerite's straight to rust treatment which comes
    in colours, comes in big tins and apparently you can thin it and use it with
    a spray gun (I have never used a spray gun before)

    So, any advice on which paint to get and from where? Are there online
    stockists that I can use as my local DIY store seem to deal in very small
    tins only? Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these
    cheap/expensive tools to buy?

    Thanks,


    John.
     
    John Smith, Aug 14, 2004
    #2
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  3. On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 16:37:59 GMT, John Smith wrote:

    > I am looking for tips for metal painter/primer/rust treatment
    > for it. I am considering Hammerite's straight to rust treatment...


    I've used black smooth hammerite on heavy garden/field gate hinges.
    Works well has survived our weather or a good couple of years without
    obvious signs of degredation. Same can't be said for the galvanised
    screws which are rusting nicely. Try not to create tiny bubbles which
    form pinholes later, you do really need two coats to overcome this and
    note that the second needs to be applied fairly quickly after the
    first or you have to wait weeks...

    > Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these cheap/expensive
    > tools to buy?


    My thoughts about a spray gun outside are that 5% of the paint will
    end up on the intended object, 95% all over the neighbourhood.

    --
    Cheers
    Dave. pam is missing e-mail
     
    Dave Liquorice, Aug 14, 2004
    #3
  4. In article <HdrTc.212$>,
    John Smith <> wrote:
    > So, any advice on which paint to get and from where? Are there online
    > stockists that I can use as my local DIY store seem to deal in very small
    > tins only? Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these
    > cheap/expensive tools to buy?


    Spraying is a way of getting a good finish with suitable paint on a large
    surface away from any draught. Ie, in a purpose made spray booth, or
    somewhere where spray scatter doesn't matter. For anything else, pointless.

    --
    *24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

    Dave Plowman London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.
     
    Dave Plowman (News), Aug 14, 2004
    #4
  5. In article <WntTc.642$>,
    John Smith <> wrote:
    > Thanks both - hammerite it is then. Any one know an online supplier of
    > it in the UK? My local B&Q has 1 one large tin in black... be nice to
    > get the silver grey.


    Halfords? Dunno about prices.

    --
    *Forget about World Peace...Visualize using your turn signal.

    Dave Plowman London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.
     
    Dave Plowman (News), Aug 14, 2004
    #5
  6. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    Thanks both - hammerite it is then. Any one know an online supplier of it in
    the UK? My local B&Q has 1 one large tin in black... be nice to get the
    silver grey.

    John.
     
    John Smith, Aug 14, 2004
    #6
  7. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    "John Smith" <> wrote in message
    news:WntTc.642$...
    > Thanks both - hammerite it is then. Any one know an online supplier of it

    in
    > the UK? My local B&Q has 1 one large tin in black... be nice to get the
    > silver grey.
    >
    > John.


    Found a place that sells it online for about £35 - B&Q were a touch under
    £50. Any views on the hammered versus satin versus smooth finishes for an
    outside metal fire escape?


    John.
    >
     
    John Smith, Aug 14, 2004
    #7
  8. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    John Smith, Aug 14, 2004
    #8
  9. In article <1giiqy6.1rip35nedkizgN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk>,
    Steve Firth <> wrote:
    > Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
    > outdoor paint is as good as anything.


    Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.

    --
    *Forget about World Peace...Visualize using your turn signal.

    Dave Plowman London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.
     
    Dave Plowman (News), Aug 14, 2004
    #9
  10. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    "Steve Firth" <> wrote in message
    news:1giiqy6.1rip35nedkizgN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
    > John Smith <> wrote:
    >
    > > Anyhow, I think it is in danger of rusting through so I am going to get

    a
    > > drill and a rust attachment on it in the next few days

    >
    > YOu would be better advised to get an angle grinder and wire brush. Much
    > faster and more thorough than an electric drill. If you choose this
    > route, the andle grinders are fairly cheap - can be as cheap as £10 to
    > buy. You will also need leather gloves and goggles, probably hearing
    > protectors as well.
    >


    Thanks Steve,

    Within about 5 minutes of trying the drill option today I more or less
    concluded that it was the wrong tool. I took a look at angle grinders today
    and wondered whether they woudl be a better tool - not sure what type 'disc'
    to use with one though? Can you suggest one?

    Thanks,

    John.
     
    John Smith, Aug 14, 2004
    #10
  11. Steve Firth

    Steve Firth Guest

    Dave Plowman (News) <> wrote:

    > In article <1giiqy6.1rip35nedkizgN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk>,
    > Steve Firth <> wrote:
    > > Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
    > > outdoor paint is as good as anything.

    >
    > Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.


    I'm not sure it's a con, but it is extremely brittle. So it chips easily
    and then it's no use at all.

    --
    Having problems understanding usenet? Or do you simply need help but
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    Steve Firth, Aug 14, 2004
    #11
  12. Steve Firth

    Steve Firth Guest

    John Smith <> wrote:

    > Within about 5 minutes of trying the drill option today I more or less
    > concluded that it was the wrong tool. I took a look at angle grinders today
    > and wondered whether they woudl be a better tool - not sure what type 'disc'
    > to use with one though? Can you suggest one?


    Don't use a disk. Angle grinder discs are for cuttting and grinding not
    cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
    radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
    are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
    (that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
    brush onto the spindle.

    You must wear goggles and gloves. At the speed a grinder operates the
    small particles that break off the wire brush and the particles of paint
    can go right through skin and will make a real mess of your eye. Ear
    defenders a good idea as well.

    --
    Having problems understanding usenet? Or do you simply need help but
    are getting unhelpful answers? Subscribe to: uk.net.beginners for
    friendly advice in a flame-free environment.
     
    Steve Firth, Aug 15, 2004
    #12
  13. On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 20:41:25 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

    >> Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
    >> outdoor paint is as good as anything.

    >
    > Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.


    Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable quantites and price he
    could try and track down the stuff that vehical restorers rave about
    for use on subframes/chassis etc. I think it (or one of them) may have
    been mentioned in the last month in here.

    --
    Cheers
    Dave. pam is missing e-mail
     
    Dave Liquorice, Aug 15, 2004
    #13
  14. Steve Firth

    John Rumm Guest

    raden wrote:

    > Well, really you need a full kevlar suit


    A leather apron does as well ;-)

    Also get a flap wheel since these are a little less aggressive than the
    wire brush. Note also that hammerite can be painted straight onto the
    rust without much preparation other than brushing off the loose stuff.

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
    |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
    \=================================================================/
     
    John Rumm, Aug 15, 2004
    #14
  15. In article <1gij8gz.1m4oz3w12oxh2wN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk>,
    Steve Firth <> wrote:
    > Don't use a disk. Angle grinder discs are for cuttting and grinding not
    > cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
    > radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
    > are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
    > (that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
    > brush onto the spindle.


    Those impregnated plastic thingies are a bit safer than a wire brush, IMHO.

    --
    *It's o.k. to laugh during sexŒ.Œ.just don't point!

    Dave Plowman London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.
     
    Dave Plowman (News), Aug 15, 2004
    #15
  16. On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 01:28:29 GMT, raden wrote:

    >> Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable
    >> quantites and price..

    >
    > Can't find it ?
    >
    > Distributors all over the place, website etc,
    > you can hardly miss it


    Not the word after "and".

    --
    Cheers
    Dave. pam is missing e-mail
     
    Dave Liquorice, Aug 15, 2004
    #16
  17. Steve Firth

    John Smith Guest

    "Steve Firth" <> wrote in message
    news:1gij8gz.1m4oz3w12oxh2wN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
    > John Smith <> wrote:
    >


    > Don't use a disk. Angle grinder discs are for cuttting and grinding not
    > cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
    > radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
    > are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
    > (that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
    > brush onto the spindle.


    I purchased the cup type yesterday but assumed it was for use on a drill. I
    just took a look at the B&D website and buried deep in it is a pic of an
    angle grinder using the cup disk. I assume it can be used, as I did, on a
    drill anyhow?

    John.
     
    John Smith, Aug 15, 2004
    #17
  18. On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 00:10:12 +0100, (Steve Firth) wrote:

    >One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
    >are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
    >(that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
    >brush onto the spindle.


    The kind of brush where the wires are twisted into thick ropes (tufts? "tufted
    brush", something like that) last longer, IMO. Come in both radial and cup,
    ISTR.

    >You must wear goggles and gloves. At the speed a grinder operates the
    >small particles that break off the wire brush and the particles of paint
    >can go right through skin and will make a real mess of your eye. Ear
    >defenders a good idea as well.


    One standard procedure for removing bits of metal wire and bits of metal spark
    from the eyeball is to use a dentists drill, and just remove the middle of the
    rust spot with that.

    *That* convinced me to keep a dedicated set of goggles with the grinder, just so
    I'd never be tempted to not use one.


    Thomas Prufer
     
    Thomas Prufer, Aug 15, 2004
    #18
  19. Steve Firth

    Andy Dingley Guest

    On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 02:25:48 +0100, John Rumm
    <> wrote:

    >> Well, really you need a full kevlar suit

    >
    >A leather apron does as well ;-)


    I have both - for stopping "porcupine gut", you need the leather apron
    or welding jacket. Kevlar is too loosely woven and the bristles stick
    right through it.

    Good quality brushes and using the twisted knot sort make a big
    difference.

    --
    Smert' spamionam
     
    Andy Dingley, Aug 16, 2004
    #19
  20. Steve Firth

    Andy Dingley Guest

    On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 19:07:37 GMT, "John Smith"
    <> wrote:

    >Any views on the hammered versus satin versus smooth finishes for an
    >outside metal fire escape?


    They're both disastrous (search the ng), but the hammered is worse.

    Brushing Hammerite, especially in hot weather, is just asking for
    trouble.

    --
    Smert' spamionam
     
    Andy Dingley, Aug 16, 2004
    #20
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