leaking pipe to outside tap

Discussion in 'Home Repair' started by web, Apr 21, 2006.

  1. web

    web Guest

    I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
    froze over the winter.
    It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
    configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
    adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is this
    possible? How can I approach this?
    I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
    http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
    thanx
    web, Apr 21, 2006
    #1
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  2. web

    Guest

    someone used that threaded nut as a union and soldered it in place.
    i would heat the nut with propane and pull it apart or just cut it off
    just left of the nut ,,discard everthing to the right of the nut .get a
    new peice of straight copper and a union and reassemble by soldering
    back together...guys at the hardware store can help if you take the old
    parts in..

    http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
    , Apr 21, 2006
    #2
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  3. web

    Guest

    web wrote:
    > I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
    > froze over the winter.
    > It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
    > configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
    > adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is this
    > possible? How can I approach this?
    > I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
    > http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
    > thanx



    That looks like a freeze proof sill cock soldered onto a 1/2 inch
    copper water pipe. Since you said it was an outdoor faucet, that makes
    sense. I'll bet you left a hose connected to it so it could not drain,
    so it froze? And the part that is leaking is between the solder joint
    and the outside wall?

    If that's the case, then what you need to do is turn off the water,
    open the leaking faucet, and then find a lower drain valve, faucet,
    etc, somewhere in the water system. Open that and let water drain out
    of the system. You need to get the water out of the solder joint area
    so that you can heat it.

    Using a torch, unsolder the joint. Having someone else to help pull
    slash/rotate the sill cock will help. While the end of the 1/2" pipe
    is still hot, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth to remove the
    excess solder. Buy a new sill cock of the correct length and solder
    it in.

    If it's impossible to drain the water easily, or hard to get at the
    solder joint, etc., another approach is to cut off the 1/2 pipe with a
    tubing cutter somewhere aft of the solder joint. Then use a coupling
    and a new short piece of copper pipe to replumb it back in with the
    sill cock.
    , Apr 21, 2006
    #3
  4. web

    Guest

    Joseph Meehan wrote:
    > web wrote:
    > >I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet
    > > and froze over the winter.
    > > It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how
    > > the configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into
    > > the 1/2 adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't
    > > soldered. Is this possible? How can I approach this?
    > > I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
    > > http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
    > > thanx

    >
    > Get a new freeze proof hydrant and attach it to the good pipe. I think
    > I would just cut the supply line and solder the new hydrant or and extension
    > attached to the new hydrant on. If you don't like the idea of solder work,
    > you can try unscrewing the hydrant and hope the solder joint does not crack
    > in the process.
    >
    > --


    He can't unscrew the sill cock, because it's soldered on. If you look
    at the pics, you will see male threads on the outside that are unused.
    These come with male threads on the outside and a solder fitting on
    the inside, so they can be used either way. This one is soldered in.





    > Joseph Meehan
    >
    > Dia duit
    , Apr 21, 2006
    #4
  5. web

    web Guest

    I was late getting the hose off this year andit froze in december.
    I am correct to say that the fitting wasn't put on propery? can i use a a
    sill cock that scews into the current one or do i need to sillcock fittings?
    thanx
    <> wrote in message
    news:...
    >
    > web wrote:
    >> I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
    >> froze over the winter.
    >> It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
    >> configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
    >> adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is
    >> this
    >> possible? How can I approach this?
    >> I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
    >> http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
    >> thanx

    >
    >
    > That looks like a freeze proof sill cock soldered onto a 1/2 inch
    > copper water pipe. Since you said it was an outdoor faucet, that makes
    > sense. I'll bet you left a hose connected to it so it could not drain,
    > so it froze? And the part that is leaking is between the solder joint
    > and the outside wall?
    >
    > If that's the case, then what you need to do is turn off the water,
    > open the leaking faucet, and then find a lower drain valve, faucet,
    > etc, somewhere in the water system. Open that and let water drain out
    > of the system. You need to get the water out of the solder joint area
    > so that you can heat it.
    >
    > Using a torch, unsolder the joint. Having someone else to help pull
    > slash/rotate the sill cock will help. While the end of the 1/2" pipe
    > is still hot, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth to remove the
    > excess solder. Buy a new sill cock of the correct length and solder
    > it in.
    >
    > If it's impossible to drain the water easily, or hard to get at the
    > solder joint, etc., another approach is to cut off the 1/2 pipe with a
    > tubing cutter somewhere aft of the solder joint. Then use a coupling
    > and a new short piece of copper pipe to replumb it back in with the
    > sill cock.
    >
    web, Apr 21, 2006
    #5
  6. "web" <sjwNOSPAMatripnet.com> wrote in message
    news:444938ee$0$24120$...
    >I was late getting the hose off this year andit froze in december.
    > I am correct to say that the fitting wasn't put on propery? can i use a a
    > sill cock that scews into the current one or do i need to sillcock
    > fittings?
    > thanx
    > <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >>


    It was installed correctly. As others have said, the sillcock is a
    universal type with sweat and pipe thread options. You can locate another
    sillcock of the same design and and size and solder it in place as the
    original or solder a female adapter to the end of the copper and install the
    sillcock as you would any other threaded pipe, allowing for clearance and
    the slight gain in length from using the female adapter.

    Bill
    Bill Kitterman, Apr 23, 2006
    #6
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