How to fit letter box

Discussion in 'UK Home Improvement' started by Ken, Nov 13, 2008.

  1. Ken

    Ken Guest

    Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy but
    here I go.

    Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front door, but
    not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to remove and put in
    a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited DIY but will have a go
    at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it is smooth and accurate. I
    will need to buy whatever tools needed so would prefer not to have to buy
    stuff that would cost as much as getting a joiner in.

    Any tips would be useful?

    Ken
     
    Ken, Nov 13, 2008
    #1
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  2. Ken

    Ken Guest

    "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >
    > "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    > news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy but
    >> here I go.
    >>
    >> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front door,
    >> but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to remove and
    >> put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited DIY but will
    >> have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it is smooth and
    >> accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so would prefer not to
    >> have to buy stuff that would cost as much as getting a joiner in.
    >>
    >> Any tips would be useful?
    >>

    >
    > The hole won't be visible, therefore doesn't need to be all that smooth
    > and accurate, you just need to avoid falling into the trap of not leaving
    > enough material round where the screws are going to go. Get one with a
    > flap or brushes etc on the inside to keep draughts down and it will hide a
    > multitude of sins.
    >
    > Mark on the door the hole you're about to cut and make sure you mark the
    > screw holes, to stay away from them when cutting. Is the door wooden or
    > PVC? If the latter, it may be a complex shaped extrusion, or there may be
    > a steel bracer inside, either of which will complicate matters.
    >
    > Steve


    http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is wooden
    and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my Stanley knife as I
    don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work cutting but I will have
    a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the door in the middle and not just
    empty voids!!!!
    Ken
     
    Ken, Nov 13, 2008
    #2
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  3. Ken

    On Web Guest

    "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >
    > "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    > news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >>
    >> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >> news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >>> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy but
    >>> here I go.
    >>>
    >>> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front door,
    >>> but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to remove
    >>> and put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited DIY but
    >>> will have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it is smooth
    >>> and accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so would prefer
    >>> not to have to buy stuff that would cost as much as getting a joiner in.
    >>>
    >>> Any tips would be useful?
    >>>

    >>
    >> The hole won't be visible, therefore doesn't need to be all that smooth
    >> and accurate, you just need to avoid falling into the trap of not leaving
    >> enough material round where the screws are going to go. Get one with a
    >> flap or brushes etc on the inside to keep draughts down and it will hide
    >> a multitude of sins.
    >>
    >> Mark on the door the hole you're about to cut and make sure you mark the
    >> screw holes, to stay away from them when cutting. Is the door wooden or
    >> PVC? If the latter, it may be a complex shaped extrusion, or there may be
    >> a steel bracer inside, either of which will complicate matters.
    >>
    >> Steve

    >
    > http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    > Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is
    > wooden and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my Stanley
    > knife as I don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work cutting but
    > I will have a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the door in the middle
    > and not just empty voids!!!!
    > Ken



    Borrow a jigsaw and a drill from a friend/neighbour. It'll all be finished
    in 15 minutes.
     
    On Web, Nov 14, 2008
    #3
  4. Ken

    Ken Guest

    "John Whitworth" <sexyjw@g_EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE_mail.com> wrote in message
    news:491c99cf$0$24465$...
    >
    > "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    > news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >>
    >> http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    >> Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is
    >> wooden and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my Stanley
    >> knife as I don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work cutting
    >> but I will have a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the door in the
    >> middle and not just empty voids!!!!
    >> Ken

    > That's your keep fit sorted for the next few days then! ;-)


    Its only one of loads of jobs so may keep me fitter than I have been.
    Trouble is working makes me hungry :)
     
    Ken, Nov 14, 2008
    #4
  5. Ken

    Ken Guest

    "Muddymike" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    >
    > "On Web" <> wrote in message
    > news:0VaTk.61320$2...
    >> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >> news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >>>
    >>> "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >>>>
    >>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>> news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >>>>> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy
    >>>>> but here I go.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front
    >>>>> door, but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to
    >>>>> remove and put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited
    >>>>> DIY but will have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it
    >>>>> is smooth and accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so
    >>>>> would prefer not to have to buy stuff that would cost as much as
    >>>>> getting a joiner in.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Any tips would be useful?
    >>>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> The hole won't be visible, therefore doesn't need to be all that smooth
    >>>> and accurate, you just need to avoid falling into the trap of not
    >>>> leaving enough material round where the screws are going to go. Get one
    >>>> with a flap or brushes etc on the inside to keep draughts down and it
    >>>> will hide a multitude of sins.
    >>>>
    >>>> Mark on the door the hole you're about to cut and make sure you mark
    >>>> the screw holes, to stay away from them when cutting. Is the door
    >>>> wooden or PVC? If the latter, it may be a complex shaped extrusion, or
    >>>> there may be a steel bracer inside, either of which will complicate
    >>>> matters.
    >>>>
    >>>> Steve
    >>>
    >>> http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    >>> Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is
    >>> wooden and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my Stanley
    >>> knife as I don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work cutting
    >>> but I will have a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the door in the
    >>> middle and not just empty voids!!!!
    >>> Ken

    >>
    >>
    >> Borrow a jigsaw and a drill from a friend/neighbour. It'll all be
    >> finished in 15 minutes.

    >
    > Having tried to do this a few years ago with a Bocsh jigsaw I would say
    > you are better off with a nice stiff padsaw blade and plenty of time. The
    > problem I found was that the jigsaw blade bends too much in thick material
    > like a door. The side you are working from may be nice and straight but
    > the other side will be all over the place as the blade bends making for a
    > very wavy line.
    >
    > Just drill (making sure you keep the drill square to the door) each corner
    > of the hole with a bit large enough to get the padsaw blade through, then
    > cut between the holes. This leaves a neat hole with nice round corners.
    >
    > Mike


    My past experience was not good with a jigsaw. Perhaps I needed a more
    expensive one or different blades but!!!!!!
     
    Ken, Nov 14, 2008
    #5
  6. Ken

    On Web Guest

    "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    news:491d6a99$0$10544$...
    >
    > "Muddymike" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >>
    >> "On Web" <> wrote in message
    >> news:0VaTk.61320$2...
    >>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>> news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >>>>
    >>>> "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    >>>> news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >>>>>
    >>>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>>> news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >>>>>> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy
    >>>>>> but here I go.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front
    >>>>>> door, but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to
    >>>>>> remove and put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited
    >>>>>> DIY but will have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it
    >>>>>> is smooth and accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so
    >>>>>> would prefer not to have to buy stuff that would cost as much as
    >>>>>> getting a joiner in.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> Any tips would be useful?
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>> The hole won't be visible, therefore doesn't need to be all that
    >>>>> smooth and accurate, you just need to avoid falling into the trap of
    >>>>> not leaving enough material round where the screws are going to go.
    >>>>> Get one with a flap or brushes etc on the inside to keep draughts down
    >>>>> and it will hide a multitude of sins.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Mark on the door the hole you're about to cut and make sure you mark
    >>>>> the screw holes, to stay away from them when cutting. Is the door
    >>>>> wooden or PVC? If the latter, it may be a complex shaped extrusion, or
    >>>>> there may be a steel bracer inside, either of which will complicate
    >>>>> matters.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Steve
    >>>>
    >>>> http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    >>>> Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is
    >>>> wooden and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my
    >>>> Stanley knife as I don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work
    >>>> cutting but I will have a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the
    >>>> door in the middle and not just empty voids!!!!
    >>>> Ken
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> Borrow a jigsaw and a drill from a friend/neighbour. It'll all be
    >>> finished in 15 minutes.

    >>
    >> Having tried to do this a few years ago with a Bocsh jigsaw I would say
    >> you are better off with a nice stiff padsaw blade and plenty of time. The
    >> problem I found was that the jigsaw blade bends too much in thick
    >> material like a door. The side you are working from may be nice and
    >> straight but the other side will be all over the place as the blade bends
    >> making for a very wavy line.
    >>
    >> Just drill (making sure you keep the drill square to the door) each
    >> corner of the hole with a bit large enough to get the padsaw blade
    >> through, then cut between the holes. This leaves a neat hole with nice
    >> round corners.
    >>
    >> Mike

    >
    > My past experience was not good with a jigsaw. Perhaps I needed a more
    > expensive one or different blades but!!!!!!


    Precise accuracy is not required for the hole. The fittings will leave a
    good margin for error and the actual hole and cut need never be seen -
    covered either by a flap or brushes. I think a jigsaw should be OK provided
    only light pressure is applied to the blade.

    Anyway good luck!

    Paul
     
    On Web, Nov 14, 2008
    #6
  7. Ken

    Palindrome Guest

    On Web wrote:
    > "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    > news:491d6a99$0$10544$...
    >> "Muddymike" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> "On Web" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:0VaTk.61320$2...
    >>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>> news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >>>>> "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    >>>>> news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >>>>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>>>> news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >>>>>>> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy
    >>>>>>> but here I go.
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front
    >>>>>>> door, but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to
    >>>>>>> remove and put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited
    >>>>>>> DIY but will have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it
    >>>>>>> is smooth and accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so
    >>>>>>> would prefer not to have to buy stuff that would cost as much as
    >>>>>>> getting a joiner in.
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> Any tips would be useful?
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>> The hole won't be visible, therefore doesn't need to be all that
    >>>>>> smooth and accurate, you just need to avoid falling into the trap of
    >>>>>> not leaving enough material round where the screws are going to go.
    >>>>>> Get one with a flap or brushes etc on the inside to keep draughts down
    >>>>>> and it will hide a multitude of sins.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> Mark on the door the hole you're about to cut and make sure you mark
    >>>>>> the screw holes, to stay away from them when cutting. Is the door
    >>>>>> wooden or PVC? If the latter, it may be a complex shaped extrusion, or
    >>>>>> there may be a steel bracer inside, either of which will complicate
    >>>>>> matters.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> Steve
    >>>>> http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fit-a-letter-box
    >>>>> Thanks for the tips and just found this video on a Google. My door is
    >>>>> wooden and also just found a padsaw blade that will attach to my
    >>>>> Stanley knife as I don't have a jigsaw. I guess it will be harder work
    >>>>> cutting but I will have a go. Hope I can find the solid bits of the
    >>>>> door in the middle and not just empty voids!!!!
    >>>>> Ken
    >>>>
    >>>> Borrow a jigsaw and a drill from a friend/neighbour. It'll all be
    >>>> finished in 15 minutes.
    >>> Having tried to do this a few years ago with a Bocsh jigsaw I would say
    >>> you are better off with a nice stiff padsaw blade and plenty of time. The
    >>> problem I found was that the jigsaw blade bends too much in thick
    >>> material like a door. The side you are working from may be nice and
    >>> straight but the other side will be all over the place as the blade bends
    >>> making for a very wavy line.
    >>>
    >>> Just drill (making sure you keep the drill square to the door) each
    >>> corner of the hole with a bit large enough to get the padsaw blade
    >>> through, then cut between the holes. This leaves a neat hole with nice
    >>> round corners.
    >>>
    >>> Mike

    >> My past experience was not good with a jigsaw. Perhaps I needed a more
    >> expensive one or different blades but!!!!!!

    >
    > Precise accuracy is not required for the hole. The fittings will leave a
    > good margin for error and the actual hole and cut need never be seen -
    > covered either by a flap or brushes. I think a jigsaw should be OK provided
    > only light pressure is applied to the blade.
    >
    > Anyway good luck!
    >

    Especially if it is a hardwood door, then, IMHO, the door needs to come
    off, a template made and that and a router used. But no way would I
    recommend using a router with a cutting bit, to anyone who might try
    using it without a template guide.

    If the OP wasn't used to using a router, I'd still suggest using one but
    with a large-shank 1/8" drill bit used to plunge dozens of holes into
    centre-popped marks around the outline. The holes will then all be at
    right angles to the wood and can be joined up with a pad saw without a
    lot of effort.


    Argos has a plunge router for £29.99. I use routers for loads of tasks -
    I don't know how people can manage without one :)


    If I had to use a jigsaw, I'd still take the door off and use a couple
    of guide rails to hold the saw on track for each of the cuts. Plus use a
    new *high quality* blades of the right type - so that there would be a
    chance of it cutting straight. As you suggest, light pressure is
    essential. But a high quality blade, with no bias to one side, makes a
    lot of difference.

    --
    Sue
     
    Palindrome, Nov 14, 2008
    #7
  8. Ken

    Abbot Guest

    "Palindrome" <> wrote in message
    news:WojTk.178000$...
    > On Web wrote:
    >> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >> news:491d6a99$0$10544$...
    >>> "Muddymike" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:...
    >>>> "On Web" <> wrote in message
    >>>> news:0VaTk.61320$2...
    >>>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>>> news:491c6127$0$2529$...
    >>>>>> "shazzbat" <> wrote in message
    >>>>>> news:gfgr4h$3uh$...
    >>>>>>> "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    >>>>>>> news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    >>>>>>>> Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so
    >>>>>>>> easy but here I go.
    >>>>>>>>
    >>>>>>>> Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front
    >>>>>>>> door, but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need
    >>>>>>>> to remove and put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do
    >>>>>>>> limited DIY but will have a go at things and wonder how to cut the
    >>>>>>>> hole so it is smooth and accurate. I will need to buy whatever
    >>>>>>>> tools needed so would prefer not to have to buy stuff that would
    >>>>>>>> cost as much as getting a joiner in.

    ===========
    > If I had to use a jigsaw, I'd still take the door off and use a couple of
    > guide rails to hold the saw on track for each of the cuts. Plus use a new
    > *high quality* blades of the right type - so that there would be a chance
    > of it cutting straight. As you suggest, light pressure is essential. But a
    > high quality blade, with no bias to one side, makes a lot of difference.
    >
    > --
    > Sue
    >

    I find that once the wood gets beyond about 1" thick no matter how slow I
    run the jiggle saw or how slow the feed, the blades always seem to bend &
    give sloping sides.
    Toolstation
    (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Blades/Sabre Jigsaw Blades/d120/sd2581),
    and others
    (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24387...rpose-Jigsaw-Blades-Bayonet-T101BRF-Pack-of-5),
    do reverse cut blades (part numbers end in 'R') that do the business on the
    up stroke and give me a squarer cut.
    All depends on how 'slow' is defined I suppose.
    Regards,
    A
     
    Abbot, Nov 15, 2008
    #8
  9. Ken

    Palindrome Guest

    Abbot wrote:
    <snip>
    > I find that once the wood gets beyond about 1" thick no matter how slow I
    > run the jiggle saw or how slow the feed, the blades always seem to bend &
    > give sloping sides.


    Do you find that the blade bends when cutting thick MDF/chipboard worktops?

    If so, then I would strongly suggest try screwing a guide rail either
    side of the saw - so it cannot rotate at all. Then try again. I find
    that, using new quality blades, gives consistently good results. Using
    just one guide doesn't - at least IME.

    If not, but it bends when working on real wood - does it always bend to
    the same side, even if you reverse the direction of cut?

    With real wood, the blade will want to bend away from knots and will
    want to find the path of least resistance - only cutting very very
    slowly will produce a decent job if there are knots to encounter, or you
    are cutting /almost/ along the grain.

    If I try and use a jigsaw freehand, the results are bloody awful..:(

    Of course, YMMV.

    --
    Sue
     
    Palindrome, Nov 15, 2008
    #9
  10. Ken

    Abbot Guest

    "Palindrome" <> wrote in message
    news:CXGTk.79963$...
    > Abbot wrote:
    > <snip>
    >> I find that once the wood gets beyond about 1" thick no matter how slow I
    >> run the jiggle saw or how slow the feed, the blades always seem to bend &
    >> give sloping sides.

    >
    > Do you find that the blade bends when cutting thick MDF/chipboard
    > worktops?


    Yes!
    I think it is down to technique, once the blade has gone the slightest bit
    off vertical my only solution is to drill another hole & start cutting
    again.

    > If so, then I would strongly suggest try screwing a guide rail either side
    > of the saw - so it cannot rotate at all. Then try again. I find that,
    > using new quality blades, gives consistently good results. Using just one
    > guide doesn't - at least IME.


    Looks like this old dog has been taught a new trick! Never thought of using
    2 guides. If I can clamp 2 guides parallel enough so as the jiggle saw
    doesn't bind things should look up for the next sawdust creation excercise.

    > If not, but it bends when working on real wood - does it always bend to
    > the same side, even if you reverse the direction of cut?


    Real wood! On a pension! I don't think the trees at the end of the garden
    will be ready for my ministrations in the foreseeable future.

    > With real wood, the blade will want to bend away from knots and will want
    > to find the path of least resistance


    and follow the grain. Why are trees so awkward?

    > - only cutting very very slowly will produce a decent job if there are
    > knots to encounter, or you are cutting /almost/ along the grain.
    >
    > If I try and use a jigsaw freehand, the results are bloody awful..:(
    >

    as long as it is undersized a goodly bit of chiseling cures most things.

    > Of course, YMMV.
    >
    > --
    > Sue

    Cheers,
    A
     
    Abbot, Nov 15, 2008
    #10
  11. Ken

    ARWadsworth Guest

    "Abbot" <> wrote in message
    news:C0JTk.77233$2...
    >
    > "Palindrome" <> wrote in message
    > news:CXGTk.79963$...
    > > Abbot wrote:
    > > <snip>
    > >> I find that once the wood gets beyond about 1" thick no matter how slow

    I
    > >> run the jiggle saw or how slow the feed, the blades always seem to bend

    &
    > >> give sloping sides.

    > >
    > > Do you find that the blade bends when cutting thick MDF/chipboard
    > > worktops?

    >
    > Yes!
    > I think it is down to technique, once the blade has gone the slightest bit
    > off vertical my only solution is to drill another hole & start cutting
    > again.
    >
    > > If so, then I would strongly suggest try screwing a guide rail either

    side
    > > of the saw - so it cannot rotate at all. Then try again. I find that,
    > > using new quality blades, gives consistently good results. Using just

    one
    > > guide doesn't - at least IME.

    >
    > Looks like this old dog has been taught a new trick! Never thought of

    using
    > 2 guides. If I can clamp 2 guides parallel enough so as the jiggle saw
    > doesn't bind things should look up for the next sawdust creation

    excercise.
    >
    > > If not, but it bends when working on real wood - does it always bend to
    > > the same side, even if you reverse the direction of cut?

    >
    > Real wood! On a pension! I don't think the trees at the end of the garden
    > will be ready for my ministrations in the foreseeable future.
    >
    > > With real wood, the blade will want to bend away from knots and will

    want
    > > to find the path of least resistance

    >
    > and follow the grain. Why are trees so awkward?
    >
    > > - only cutting very very slowly will produce a decent job if there are
    > > knots to encounter, or you are cutting /almost/ along the grain.
    > >
    > > If I try and use a jigsaw freehand, the results are bloody awful..:(
    > >

    > as long as it is undersized a goodly bit of chiseling cures most things.
    >
    > > Of course, YMMV.
    > >
    > > --
    > > Sue

    > Cheers,
    > A
    >
    >
     
    ARWadsworth, Nov 16, 2008
    #11
  12. Ken

    Ken Guest

    "Ken" <Reply to NG only> wrote in message
    news:491bec3f$0$24469$...
    > Sorry as even I feel this looks stupid question as it seems so easy but
    > here I go.
    >
    > Moved to a house with silly small post box, on wall next to front door,
    > but not big enough for larger items of mail. Hence the need to remove and
    > put in a conventional letter box in the door. I do limited DIY but will
    > have a go at things and wonder how to cut the hole so it is smooth and
    > accurate. I will need to buy whatever tools needed so would prefer not to
    > have to buy stuff that would cost as much as getting a joiner in.
    >
    > Any tips would be useful?
    >
    > Ken


    Well I have fitted my letter box and --- well!!!!

    Used a padsaw - hard going and veered off the straight but no jigsaw and no
    friends or neighbours who had one!

    Then used rasp to get the hole neater then coarse, medium and smooth
    sandpaper.

    The two bolts from the brass letter plate were 1cm different from point they
    screwed in letter plate to the end where the bolts fitted so required some
    persuasion to line up better.

    Then I thought why the hell are the holes for the bolts so close to the
    edges of the main hole - needing great care so as not to get the hole
    drilling skewed.

    Last problem is the prat in the DIY shop sold me the white back plate which
    was not the right one it was in fact a front of door letter plate.
    Sodetermined to get the job don in one go I used my hacksaw to modify it so
    it is now a back plate.

    What sounded simple job turned out to be a bigger pain in the asre but done
    thank God and thanks for all your tips.

    Now my next job is..........

    Ken
     
    Ken, Nov 27, 2008
    #12
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