heating not working but hot water is

Discussion in 'UK Home Improvement' started by p.mc, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    p.mc, Nov 29, 2011
    #1
    1. Advertising

  2. p.mc

    Woody Guest

    "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    news:jb1oib$m8o$...
    > Hi all
    >
    > I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >
    > http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >
    > The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >
    > Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could
    > someone give us a clue how to sort it?
    >
    > Thanks in advance.
    >
    >
    > Regards
    > p.mc




    Not knowing anything about this beast, but such systems usually
    have a thermostat on the side of the tank which, when it gets hot
    enough switches over and operates a valve that turns and runs the
    water through the CH system. The boiler merely looks at the water
    temp and fires up when necessary.

    If the boiler is heating the water correctly then either the tank
    stat is not working or is wrongly set, or it is working but the
    divert valve isn't - or of course the pump may have failed. One
    thing to check is the default setting of the divert valve: does
    it switch the water to the CH and relax to the tank or vice
    versa? It should switch to the tank and relax to CH in most
    systems.


    --
    Woody

    harrogate three at ntlworld dot com
     
    Woody, Nov 29, 2011
    #2
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  3. p.mc

    Bod Guest

    On 29/11/2011 08:14, Woody wrote:
    > "p.mc"<> wrote in message
    > news:jb1oib$m8o$...
    >> Hi all
    >>
    >> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>
    >> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>
    >> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>
    >> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could
    >> someone give us a clue how to sort it?
    >>
    >> Thanks in advance.
    >>
    >>
    >> Regards
    >> p.mc

    >
    >
    >
    > Not knowing anything about this beast, but such systems usually
    > have a thermostat on the side of the tank which, when it gets hot
    > enough switches over and operates a valve that turns and runs the
    > water through the CH system. The boiler merely looks at the water
    > temp and fires up when necessary.
    >
    > If the boiler is heating the water correctly then either the tank
    > stat is not working or is wrongly set, or it is working but the
    > divert valve isn't - or of course the pump may have failed. One
    > thing to check is the default setting of the divert valve: does
    > it switch the water to the CH and relax to the tank or vice
    > versa? It should switch to the tank and relax to CH in most
    > systems.
    >
    >

    Combi boilers don't have or need tanks.

    --
    Bod
     
    Bod, Nov 29, 2011
    #3
  4. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    "Bod" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > On 29/11/2011 08:14, Woody wrote:
    >> "p.mc"<> wrote in message
    >> news:jb1oib$m8o$...
    >>> Hi all
    >>>
    >>> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>>
    >>> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>>
    >>> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>>
    >>> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could
    >>> someone give us a clue how to sort it?
    >>>
    >>> Thanks in advance.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> Regards
    >>> p.mc

    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> Not knowing anything about this beast, but such systems usually
    >> have a thermostat on the side of the tank which, when it gets hot
    >> enough switches over and operates a valve that turns and runs the
    >> water through the CH system. The boiler merely looks at the water
    >> temp and fires up when necessary.
    >>
    >> If the boiler is heating the water correctly then either the tank
    >> stat is not working or is wrongly set, or it is working but the
    >> divert valve isn't - or of course the pump may have failed. One
    >> thing to check is the default setting of the divert valve: does
    >> it switch the water to the CH and relax to the tank or vice
    >> versa? It should switch to the tank and relax to CH in most
    >> systems.
    >>
    >>

    > Combi boilers don't have or need tanks.
    >
    > --
    > Bod


    No there's no tank, it just heats on demand. But thanks anyway for the
    reply.

    Any other ideas anyone?
     
    p.mc, Nov 29, 2011
    #4
  5. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    Hi Stephen. Thanks for your detailed reply.

    Oddly enough, I only have a switched spur feeding the boiler and definitely
    no room stat, although the rads have temperature control vaves on (if that
    is what they are called?)
    and I presume the "time switch! is the clocky thing on the panel
    http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    So does the below still apply?
    --


    Regards
    p.mc
    "Stephen" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > if this is definately a combi boiler then there are two lots of culprits
    > to check for.
    >
    > Firstly the heating timeswitch and room thermostat for the radiators......
    > if both are calling for heating, there should be power at the heating
    > demand terminals in the combi boiler.
    >
    > Secondly, ther other culprit is the diverter valve, either the motor or
    > microswitch within the actuator has failed or the the diverter plunger has
    > jammed or is leaking internally, due to perished O rings or failed return
    > spring.
    >
    > "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    > news:jb36j2$ltn$...
    >>
    >> "Bod" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> On 29/11/2011 08:14, Woody wrote:
    >>>> "p.mc"<> wrote in message
    >>>> news:jb1oib$m8o$...
    >>>>> Hi all
    >>>>>
    >>>>> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>>>>
    >>>>> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could
    >>>>> someone give us a clue how to sort it?
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Thanks in advance.
    >>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Regards
    >>>>> p.mc
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> Not knowing anything about this beast, but such systems usually
    >>>> have a thermostat on the side of the tank which, when it gets hot
    >>>> enough switches over and operates a valve that turns and runs the
    >>>> water through the CH system. The boiler merely looks at the water
    >>>> temp and fires up when necessary.
    >>>>
    >>>> If the boiler is heating the water correctly then either the tank
    >>>> stat is not working or is wrongly set, or it is working but the
    >>>> divert valve isn't - or of course the pump may have failed. One
    >>>> thing to check is the default setting of the divert valve: does
    >>>> it switch the water to the CH and relax to the tank or vice
    >>>> versa? It should switch to the tank and relax to CH in most
    >>>> systems.
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>> Combi boilers don't have or need tanks.
    >>>
    >>> --
    >>> Bod

    >>
    >> No there's no tank, it just heats on demand. But thanks anyway for the
    >> reply.
    >>
    >> Any other ideas anyone?
    >>
    >>

    >
    >
     
    p.mc, Nov 30, 2011
    #5
  6. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    Hi Stephen. Thanks for your descriptive advice.

    We had a problem with low pressure a while ago, shutting
    off the CH and HW but a fellow came and sorted it.

    Yeah the timer was at the right time and the settings are
    for the kids in the morning.(£££'s got to keep the bills down)

    ---------
    1...Yes the timer rotates on it's own.

    2...The [3] position CH switch was in the off position so
    I could at least have Hot Water. Because when the
    CH kicks in it shuts down the boiler alltogether.

    3...The timer switch does click when passing the pre-set times.
    ---------

    I turned everything off at the boiler and filled to the red arrow indicator.

    I then powered up and set the CH timer to on and also auto. Both times the
    boiler kicked in. I crossed my fingers, but after a few seconds there was a
    gurgling sound and the whole system shut down. (should have crossed my eyes
    also)

    I then switched the CH timer switch off again and took a screwdriver and
    held down
    the red reset button on top of the unit (silly place!)for a few seconds,
    which
    powered the unit once more.

    So still got HW but no heating. Better than nothing I suppose

    Alternatively...JML Snuggies all round (with impressive free open book
    light)Bargain!!!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xZp-GLMMJ0&feature=player_embedded#!

    --

    Regards
    p.mc


    "Stephen" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    >
    > "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    > news:jb4o91$9sg$...
    >> Hi Stephen. Thanks for your detailed reply.
    >>
    >> Oddly enough, I only have a switched spur feeding the boiler and
    >> definitely no room stat,

    >
    > That will be the electrical main on/off switch for the whole system. you
    > clearly have power to the boiler otherwise you would not have any hot
    > water. (a gas valve, gas igniter and pump within the boiler needs to run
    > for either hot water ir central heating.)
    >
    > lthough the rads have temperature control vaves on (if that
    >> is what they are called?)

    >
    > These are referred to as TRV's, thermostatic radiator valves. All they do
    > is regulate the flow of water through each radiator according to the room
    > temperature. Being of a mechanical design, they are not able not tell the
    > boiler to start up when the room is cold.
    >
    >> and I presume the "time switch! is the clocky thing on the panel
    >> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >> So does the below still apply?

    >
    > The round thing is the time switch.for the room heating. you have plastic
    > pins that you pull out for off and push in for on.Each pin is worth 15
    > minutes.
    >
    > It appears that the picture was taken at 2.30 am in the morning.
    >
    > It appears to be a 24 hour timer. judging by your picture, you only have
    > heating on from 6.30 am to 7.30am, then a half hour break, then on again
    > at 8.00am till 9.00am. The dials current settings mean that you have no
    > heating at all for the rest of the day.
    >
    > Does this clocky thing go round at all all the time? The timeswitch has a
    > motor in it. its possible that the clock motor hads failed, thereby not
    > turning the timing disc round. if the dial does not go round at all, then
    > you need a new timeswitch.
    >
    > I see you have a three position switch for central heating marked Off,
    > Auto and On.
    >
    > Has it been accidentally knocked to the off position? perhaps cos of the
    > summer? check this.
    >
    > Try clicking it down to ON. Does the boiler then start to heat the rooms
    > up?
    >
    > Put it back on Auto, and turn the timeswitch dial clockwise manually by
    > hand ( as if you're trying to change the actual time on it... as the pins
    > go past the white arrow, you should hear a mechanical clicking as a switch
    > within the timer opens/closes and the boiler should respond accordingly.
    >
    > if it does respond, then you need to set the current time at where the
    > white arrow pointing upwards is, and push in pins for the times you want
    > the heating to come on. (as according to your timer settings, you only
    > have 2 hours worth of heating in the morning.
    >
    > If there is no response to you turning the timeswitch around, but the
    > boiler does respond when you turn the three position switch to ON, then
    > thats a new timer job.
    >
    > If turning it to ON does not cause the boiler to respond then there is a
    > fault within the boiler's innards. Without a service manual for the
    > boiler, its hard to suggest where to look next.
    >
    > Let us know how you get on.....
    >
    > Regards
    >
    > Stephen.
    >
    >>
    >>
    >> Regards
    >> p.mc
    >> "Stephen" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> if this is definately a combi boiler then there are two lots of culprits
    >>> to check for.
    >>>
    >>> Firstly the heating timeswitch and room thermostat for the
    >>> radiators...... if both are calling for heating, there should be power
    >>> at the heating demand terminals in the combi boiler.
    >>>
    >>> Secondly, ther other culprit is the diverter valve, either the motor or
    >>> microswitch within the actuator has failed or the the diverter plunger
    >>> has jammed or is leaking internally, due to perished O rings or failed
    >>> return spring.
    >>>
    >>> "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:jb36j2$ltn$...
    >>>>
    >>>> "Bod" <> wrote in message
    >>>> news:...
    >>>>> On 29/11/2011 08:14, Woody wrote:
    >>>>>> "p.mc"<> wrote in message
    >>>>>> news:jb1oib$m8o$...
    >>>>>>> Hi all
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could
    >>>>>>> someone give us a clue how to sort it?
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> Thanks in advance.
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>>
    >>>>>>> Regards
    >>>>>>> p.mc
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> Not knowing anything about this beast, but such systems usually
    >>>>>> have a thermostat on the side of the tank which, when it gets hot
    >>>>>> enough switches over and operates a valve that turns and runs the
    >>>>>> water through the CH system. The boiler merely looks at the water
    >>>>>> temp and fires up when necessary.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> If the boiler is heating the water correctly then either the tank
    >>>>>> stat is not working or is wrongly set, or it is working but the
    >>>>>> divert valve isn't - or of course the pump may have failed. One
    >>>>>> thing to check is the default setting of the divert valve: does
    >>>>>> it switch the water to the CH and relax to the tank or vice
    >>>>>> versa? It should switch to the tank and relax to CH in most
    >>>>>> systems.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>>
    >>>>> Combi boilers don't have or need tanks.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> --
    >>>>> Bod
    >>>>
    >>>> No there's no tank, it just heats on demand. But thanks anyway for the
    >>>> reply.
    >>>>
    >>>> Any other ideas anyone?
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>>

    >>
    >>

    >
    >
     
    p.mc, Dec 1, 2011
    #6
  7. "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    news:jb7qdt$7j8$...
    > Hi Stephen. Thanks for your descriptive advice.
    >
    > We had a problem with low pressure a while ago, shutting
    > off the CH and HW but a fellow came and sorted it.
    >
    > Yeah the timer was at the right time and the settings are
    > for the kids in the morning.(£££'s got to keep the bills down)
    >
    > ---------
    > 1...Yes the timer rotates on it's own.
    >
    > 2...The [3] position CH switch was in the off position so
    > I could at least have Hot Water. Because when the
    > CH kicks in it shuts down the boiler alltogether.
    >
    > 3...The timer switch does click when passing the pre-set times.
    > ---------
    >
    > I turned everything off at the boiler and filled to the red arrow
    > indicator.
    >
    > I then powered up and set the CH timer to on and also auto. Both times the
    > boiler kicked in. I crossed my fingers, but after a few seconds there was
    > a
    > gurgling sound and the whole system shut down. (should have crossed my
    > eyes also)
    >
    > I then switched the CH timer switch off again and took a screwdriver and
    > held down
    > the red reset button on top of the unit (silly place!)for a few seconds,
    > which
    > powered the unit once more.
    >
    > So still got HW but no heating. Better than nothing I suppose
    >

    Could this be a blocked condensate pipe? My combi boiler, (not a Worcester),
    gave similar symptoms when blocked. I know this is usually down to very cold
    weather freezing the pipe, but it can also occur from sediment etc. in the
    pipe.

    http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/homeowner/customer-service/common-winter-boiler-enquiries
     
    Harry Stottle, Dec 3, 2011
    #7
  8. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    Sorry for not posting back earlier as I've been quite busy. Anyhow "Thanks
    guys, you've been absolutely amazing"
    Special thanks to Stephen for your time and effort.

    BTW in answer to your questions:

    1...There are'nt any lcd displays or light to show overheating
    unfortunately.
    2...Yes there are trvs open and the same problem occurs.

    I think your guess is the right answer, but I haven't got the time to do the
    neccesary steps yet.
    Thanks for that Stephen, I'll let you know how I got on when I get the time.

    --


    Regards
    p.mc


    "Dafydd" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > On my Worcester, it was the motorised diverter valve. After the engineer
    > changed it, I took the old one apart and it was simply slightly burnt
    > contacts which could have been cleaned.
    >
    > The diverter comes as a complete assembly at about £105 (for me) but it's
    > only the motor switch contacts that go (apparently)
    >
    > DG
    >
    >
    >
    > On 29/11/2011 04:54, p.mc wrote:
    >> Hi all
    >>
    >> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>
    >> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>
    >>
    >> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>
    >> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could someone give
    >> us a clue how to sort it?
    >>
    >> Thanks in advance.
    >>
    >>
    >> Regards
    >> p.mc
     
    p.mc, Dec 4, 2011
    #8
  9. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    Hi All

    Sincere apologies for my late reply. (Xmas 'n' all) The CH pump was the
    culprit, there was an electrical feed to the pump so I tried to spin it
    without much joy.
    It would turn but wasn't rotating as expected. I'd have had a go at
    exchanging it, but couldn't find the mains water stop/inline valve anywhere!
    I looked behind the sink, under the
    stairs, there were no cupboards or boxing for them to hide in either! (Maybe
    under floor boards?) So I had to bite the bullet and have a reconditioned
    pump fitted and...Viola!

    Thanks again for all who posted you've been an absolute godsend.


    Wishing you all a merry Christmas and happy new year.
    Regards
    p.mc


    "p.mc" wrote in message news:jbgfap$7sc$...

    Sorry for not posting back earlier as I've been quite busy. Anyhow "Thanks
    guys, you've been absolutely amazing"
    Special thanks to Stephen for your time and effort.

    BTW in answer to your questions:

    1...There are'nt any lcd displays or light to show overheating
    unfortunately.
    2...Yes there are trvs open and the same problem occurs.

    I think your guess is the right answer, but I haven't got the time to do the
    neccesary steps yet.
    Thanks for that Stephen, I'll let you know how I got on when I get the time.

    --


    Regards
    p.mc


    "Dafydd" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > On my Worcester, it was the motorised diverter valve. After the engineer
    > changed it, I took the old one apart and it was simply slightly burnt
    > contacts which could have been cleaned.
    >
    > The diverter comes as a complete assembly at about £105 (for me) but it's
    > only the motor switch contacts that go (apparently)
    >
    > DG
    >
    >
    >
    > On 29/11/2011 04:54, p.mc wrote:
    >> Hi all
    >>
    >> I have a Worcester 350 combi boiler.
    >>
    >> http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/?action=view&current=worcester350combiboilerpanel.jpg
    >>
    >>
    >> The instant hot water works, but the central heating doesn't!
    >>
    >> Does that mean the fault lies in the PCB inside; or could someone give
    >> us a clue how to sort it?
    >>
    >> Thanks in advance.
    >>
    >>
    >> Regards
    >> p.mc
     
    p.mc, Dec 12, 2011
    #9
  10. p.mc

    Martin Guest

    "p.mc" <> wrote in message
    news:jc5tdo$pt3$...
    > Hi All


    < snip >

    > .... So I had to bite the bullet and have a reconditioned pump fitted
    > and...Viola!


    So it's all nicely in tune again...?!! :))


    --
    martin
     
    Martin, Dec 13, 2011
    #10
  11. p.mc

    p.mc Guest

    Thanks for the comments.

    I did see the man shutting the water off at the boiler as you said Stephen.
    I had to tighten the drain valve
    after he left though, as it had a slow leak. I then went around the house
    and bled each rad, the one in the attic
    released all the air out of the system and I had to get my daughter to keep
    the rad valve open whilst i
    filled the system. When all the air was expelled she closed the rad valve
    and I pressurised the system
    to 1.5 bar. Just goes to show though how a little bit of extra questioning
    can make all the difference...my bad :)

    The sharing of knowledge is truly a great gift.

    Regards
    p.mc

    "Stephen H" wrote in message
    news:...

    On 12/12/2011 21:58, p.mc wrote:
    > Hi All
    >
    > Sincere apologies for my late reply. (Xmas 'n' all) The CH pump was the
    > culprit, there was an electrical feed to the pump so I tried to spin it
    > without much joy.


    Best intentions and all that..... :)

    > It would turn but wasn't rotating as expected. I'd have had a go at
    > exchanging it, but couldn't find the mains water stop/inline valve
    > anywhere! I looked behind the sink, under the
    > stairs, there were no cupboards or boxing for them to hide in either!
    > (Maybe under floor boards?)


    So my diagnosis was correct. It would be a burnt out or gone open
    circuit motor winding.

    Shame you had not posted about boiler isolation valves..... I would have
    told you the answer. Underneath the boiler you will find several valves
    that are turned with a flat blade screw driver. There are valves for
    central heating flow, central heating return, cold water in, hot water
    out and of course the gas isolation valve. Its also in the manual I
    posted the link to in a previous post.

    Once you close the isolation valves, there is a drain cock within the
    boiler so you can drain just the boiler. No need to drain the radiators
    or the hot water circuit. You would then be able to replace the central
    heating pump.

    Then you can open the valves, refill via the filling loop, re-pressurise
    and bleed the boiler, and you're back in business.

    Regards,

    Stephen.


    So I had to bite the bullet and have a
    > reconditioned pump fitted and...Viola!


    Ouch.... poor wallet. couple of hundred I should think......

    > Thanks again for all who posted you've been an absolute godsend.


    > Wishing you all a merry Christmas and happy new year.
    > Regards
    > p.mc
    >
    >
    > "p.mc" wrote in message news:jbgfap$7sc$...
    >
    > Sorry for not posting back earlier as I've been quite busy. Anyhow "Thanks
    > guys, you've been absolutely amazing"
    > Special thanks to Stephen for your time and effort.
    >
    > BTW in answer to your questions:
    >
    > 1...There are'nt any lcd displays or light to show overheating
    > unfortunately.
    > 2...Yes there are trvs open and the same problem occurs.
    >
    > I think your guess is the right answer, but I haven't got the time to do
    > the
    > neccesary steps yet.
    > Thanks for that Stephen, I'll let you know how I got on when I get the
    > time.
    >
     
    p.mc, Dec 14, 2011
    #11
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