Fixing Kingspan or Celotex to wall. How?

Discussion in 'Misc DIY' started by Clive, Dec 29, 2007.

  1. Clive

    Clive Guest

    Do I just

    1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel

    2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction

    3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens

    4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens

    5. Tile wall

    ?


    Thanks

    Clive
     
    Clive, Dec 29, 2007
    #1
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  2. Clive

    Lobster Guest

    Clive wrote:
    > Do I just
    >
    > 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    > equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel
    >
    > 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction
    >
    > 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens
    >
    > 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens
    >
    > 5. Tile wall


    IMO it depends what sort of wall you're attaching it to, and what you're
    trying to achieve.

    If it's a brick wall, then really you'll want an air gap between the
    brick and the insulation, best achieved by building a studwork frame an
    inch away from the wall, and having the kingspan held within that by
    friction.

    David
     
    Lobster, Dec 29, 2007
    #2
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  3. Re: Fixing Kingspan or Celotex to wall. How?

    On Dec 29, 7:10 pm, Lobster <> wrote:
    > Clive wrote:
    > > Do I just

    >
    > > 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    > > equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel

    >
    > > 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction

    >
    > > 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens

    >
    > > 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens

    >
    > > 5. Tile wall

    >
    > IMO it depends what sort of wall you're attaching it to, and what you're
    > trying to achieve.
    >
    > If it's a brick wall, then really you'll want an air gap between the
    > brick and the insulation, best achieved by building a studwork frame an
    > inch away from the wall, and having the kingspan held within that by
    > friction.


    There is a fine netting that is made to cover the partition and hold
    the foam in situ. Or you could just tack a couple or three 1 1/2"
    ovals front and back. Fiddly for a large wall.

    I suppose you could just run a couple of strands of fishing line for
    each row front and back. Actually you don't need anything on the face
    as thaty will be covered with board.
     
    Weatherlawyer, Dec 29, 2007
    #3
  4. Re: Fixing Kingspan or Celotex to wall. How?

    On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 11:45:34 -0800 (PST), Weatherlawyer
    <> wrote:

    >On Dec 29, 7:10 pm, Lobster <> wrote:
    >> Clive wrote:
    >> > Do I just

    There are a lot of .pdfs 'hidden' in the depths of the celotex site:
    sorry I don't have the URL, but dig around and you will find the info -
    you can also google for solutions.

    But: wouldn't cavity wall insulation be a) nearly as cheap* but more
    importantly b) save you 50 or more mm of valuable intenrnal space on
    each external wall? Is it worth doing for LESS than 50/60mm insulation
    (plus board on top?)

    *assuming this is a large project
     
    no spam here, thanks, Dec 29, 2007
    #4
  5. Re: Fixing Kingspan or Celotex to wall. How?

    On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 20:14:17 GMT, no spam here, thanks wrote:

    > But: wouldn't cavity wall insulation


    Assuming there is a cavity to insulate our walls a solid stone/rubble
    infill. The house I was born and brought up in had 9" solid brick walls.

    > Is it worth doing for LESS than 50/60mm insulation (plus board on top?)


    Celotex/kingspan is a very good insulator. I lined the end wall of a small
    bedroom here, took two two sheets of 25mm foam bonded to 18mm plaster
    board. The difference it made to the room is amazing.

    --
    Cheers
    Dave. pam is missing e-mail
     
    Dave Liquorice, Dec 29, 2007
    #5
  6. Clive wrote:
    > Do I just
    >
    > 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    > equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel
    >
    > 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction
    >


    So far not bad, though vertical is preferred..and use 2x2 STUDS,. not
    flimsy battens..

    > 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens
    >

    No, you use the celotex foil tape to seal and hold them up

    > 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens
    >


    To the studs. We've just eliminated the battens..
    > 5. Tile wall


    If you want..
     
    The Natural Philosopher, Dec 30, 2007
    #6
  7. Lobster wrote:
    > Clive wrote:
    >> Do I just
    >>
    >> 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    >> equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel
    >>
    >> 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction
    >>
    >> 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens
    >>
    >> 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens
    >>
    >> 5. Tile wall

    >
    > IMO it depends what sort of wall you're attaching it to, and what you're
    > trying to achieve.
    >
    > If it's a brick wall, then really you'll want an air gap between the
    > brick and the insulation, best achieved by building a studwork frame an
    > inch away from the wall, and having the kingspan held within that by
    > friction.
    >


    Totally unnecessary.
    Slap the celotex hard up against it.

    No vapour can get in if you seal it, and if it comes in from outside, it
    can get out to the outside again ..



    > David
     
    The Natural Philosopher, Dec 30, 2007
    #7
  8. Re: Fixing Kingspan or Celotex to wall. How?

    no spam here, thanks wrote:
    > On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 11:45:34 -0800 (PST), Weatherlawyer
    > <> wrote:
    >
    >> On Dec 29, 7:10 pm, Lobster <> wrote:
    >>> Clive wrote:
    >>>> Do I just

    > There are a lot of .pdfs 'hidden' in the depths of the celotex site:
    > sorry I don't have the URL, but dig around and you will find the info -
    > you can also google for solutions.
    >
    > But: wouldn't cavity wall insulation be a) nearly as cheap* but more
    > importantly b) save you 50 or more mm of valuable intenrnal space on
    > each external wall? Is it worth doing for LESS than 50/60mm insulation
    > (plus board on top?)
    >
    > *assuming this is a large project

    Assuming it is IS a cavity wall.
     
    The Natural Philosopher, Dec 30, 2007
    #8
  9. Clive

    Lobster Guest

    The Natural Philosopher wrote:
    > Lobster wrote:
    >> Clive wrote:
    >>> Do I just
    >>>
    >>> 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    >>> equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel
    >>>
    >>> 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction
    >>>
    >>> 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens
    >>>
    >>> 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens
    >>>
    >>> 5. Tile wall

    >>
    >> IMO it depends what sort of wall you're attaching it to, and what
    >> you're trying to achieve.
    >>
    >> If it's a brick wall, then really you'll want an air gap between the
    >> brick and the insulation, best achieved by building a studwork frame
    >> an inch away from the wall, and having the kingspan held within that
    >> by friction.
    >>

    >
    > Totally unnecessary.
    > Slap the celotex hard up against it.
    >
    > No vapour can get in if you seal it, and if it comes in from outside, it
    > can get out to the outside again ..


    I'm sure the airgap is stipulated on Kingspan's site; certainly when I
    did a conversion job recently which included insulating a single-skin
    external brick wall, Building Control were adamant that there should be one.

    David
     
    Lobster, Dec 30, 2007
    #9
  10. Lobster wrote:
    > The Natural Philosopher wrote:
    >> Lobster wrote:
    >>> Clive wrote:
    >>>> Do I just
    >>>>
    >>>> 1. fix (screw) horizontal wood batttens to the wall, at a distance
    >>>> equal to the width of a Kingspan / Celotex panel
    >>>>
    >>>> 2. Push the panel between the battens so held by friction
    >>>>
    >>>> 3. Fix vertical wood battens to points on the horizontal battens
    >>>>
    >>>> 4. Fix the plywood or tiling board to the vertical battens
    >>>>
    >>>> 5. Tile wall
    >>>
    >>> IMO it depends what sort of wall you're attaching it to, and what
    >>> you're trying to achieve.
    >>>
    >>> If it's a brick wall, then really you'll want an air gap between the
    >>> brick and the insulation, best achieved by building a studwork frame
    >>> an inch away from the wall, and having the kingspan held within that
    >>> by friction.
    >>>

    >>
    >> Totally unnecessary.
    >> Slap the celotex hard up against it.
    >>
    >> No vapour can get in if you seal it, and if it comes in from outside,
    >> it can get out to the outside again ..

    >
    > I'm sure the airgap is stipulated on Kingspan's site; certainly when I
    > did a conversion job recently which included insulating a single-skin
    > external brick wall, Building Control were adamant that there should be
    > one.
    >


    That's probably to make sure the woood studwork stays dry,BCO ijnsited I
    ventilate my solid block and beam suspended concrete floor too. I guess
    they were worried the concrete might rot.

    I never got a satisfactory explanation.


    > David
     
    The Natural Philosopher, Dec 30, 2007
    #10
  11. Clive

    Mike Clarke Guest

    In article <sXKdj.399$> Lobster wrote:

    > The Natural Philosopher wrote:


    [snip]

    >> Totally unnecessary.
    >> Slap the celotex hard up against it.
    >>
    >> No vapour can get in if you seal it, and if it comes in from outside, it
    >> can get out to the outside again ..

    >
    > I'm sure the airgap is stipulated on Kingspan's site; certainly when I
    > did a conversion job recently which included insulating a single-skin
    > external brick wall, Building Control were adamant that there should be
    > one.


    I don't know about Kingspan but Celotex advise fixing it straight against
    the wall in the "Insulation solutions for solid masonry walls" leaflet
    available from their downloads page
    <http://www.celotex.co.uk/downloads.php>.

    --
    Mike Clarke
     
    Mike Clarke, Dec 30, 2007
    #11
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