Cost to install gas hot water heater

Discussion in 'Home Repair' started by Walleye, Aug 22, 2003.

  1. Walleye

    Walleye Guest

    Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for installation
    no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less than
    the installation charge!
    I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at least
    for Home Depot.

    I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation would be
    comparable.
    Too bad I can't install these myself....

    Walter
     
    Walleye, Aug 22, 2003
    #1
    1. Advertising

  2. Walleye

    Chuckles Guest

    "Walleye" <> wrote in
    news:3Du1b.154705$:

    > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for
    > installation no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the
    > models cost less than the installation charge!


    There's no reason why installation should depend on the size of the
    heater. Installation involves plumbing/vent connections being made, etc.;
    that's the same whatever the heater size/price.

    Home Depot's prices are higher for most things; they are charging for the
    brand name even though they use local contractors to do the work. Also
    it's higher because HD takes a cut and then the actual installation
    contractor has to make a profit. Finally they may be allowing a safety
    margin in case they encounter problems. That's one of the risks of
    quoting a fixed price. Vendors who quote lower prices will often qualify
    it by saying that they will quote a final price after they arrive and
    allow you the option to refuse.

    The GE water heaters are actually made by Rheem, GE just adds their name.
    They are the same as the Rheem Fury (I think). Call local installers
    directly for lower prices, but make sure they confirm the price before
    doing any work.
     
    Chuckles, Aug 22, 2003
    #2
    1. Advertising

  3. Walleye

    Walleye Guest

    > If you are replacing an existing unit, it's not particularly difficult.
    They
    > also make bolt on flex pipe for the supply & return, if sweating copper is

    a
    > problem.


    The more I think about it I want to try and replace it myself.
    I did see the flex pipe available at the Depot also although I have no
    problem with sweating copper pipe.
    The only thing I can think of that *might* cause me a problem is the gas
    line connection/hookup - everything else seems pretty straight forward.

    Any do this before that can give me some pointers?

    Thanks,
    Walter

    "Clark W. Griswold, Jr." <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > "Walleye" <> wrote:
    >
    > >Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > >I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for

    installation
    > >no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less

    than
    > >the installation charge!
    > >I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at

    least
    > >for Home Depot.
    > >
    > >I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation would

    be
    > >comparable.

    >
    > The only thing I can think of is if they feel they need to cover the cost

    of
    > bringing an older install up to code. This can involved a raised platform,
    > improved venting (for a gas install) and an overflow that discharges

    outside the
    > building (and not on the floor) in some communities, depending on code.
    >
    >
    > >Too bad I can't install these myself....

    >
    > If you are replacing an existing unit, it's not particularly difficult.

    They
    > also make bolt on flex pipe for the supply & return, if sweating copper is

    a
    > problem.
     
    Walleye, Aug 23, 2003
    #3
  4. "Walleye" <> wrote in message news:<3Du1b.154705$>...
    > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for installation
    > no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less than
    > the installation charge!
    > I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at least
    > for Home Depot.
    >
    > I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation would be
    > comparable.
    > Too bad I can't install these myself....
    >
    > Walter


    $255 for installation is a huge ripoff. Typical Home Despot:
    subcontract it to the low bidder, charge a premium rate, and pocket
    the difference. If you can't do it yourself, but you know a good
    plumber, ask him.

    If you can handle a water heater (they are cumbersome, but not heavy,
    easy two-man job), it isn't difficult. It helps if you know how to use
    a brazing torch, in case you have to redo the water fittings or the
    overflow pipe, and how to hook up a gas line -- or have a friend who
    knows these things.

    Some places may require a building permit, and many places require an
    earthquake strap.

    --
    Chris Green
     
    Christopher Green, Aug 23, 2003
    #4
  5. On 27 Aug 2003, Walter Cohen wrote:

    > Holy cow! I took a closer look at the cold water inlet and hot water
    > outlets on top of the tank and to my surprise it looks like the
    > plumber sweated/soldered the copper pipe to the fittings!
    > So although he initially screwed the fittings onto the protruding
    > in/outlets he then just soldered the copper pipe to the fitting nut
    > (as the in/outlets have external/outside threads)..


    Actually, the best way to do it is to solder a foot long "stub" to
    each fitting before they're even screwed on to the tank. This
    keeps the intense heat far away from the in/out fittings on the
    tank. It's not easy to cut them to the exact length you'll need,
    so you leave a little extra, planning to cut some off. When the
    tank is just about in position (your stubs are right next to the
    cut in/out pipes) you can mark for proper length, leaving about
    1/8" gap, move the tank far enough away so you can cut the stubs,
    then put it in place and sweat the joints using an in-line coupler
    fitting on each pipe.

    > Why would anyone do such a thing, unless of course this is standard
    > procedure? What gives!?


    That's standard procedure, at least in the one I recently
    installed and just about every one I can ever remember seeing.

    > In any event it looks like the fittings at the nut will need to be
    > heated up so the solder flows before actually twisting them off the
    > tank. Actually as the tank is being replaced it doesn't much matter I
    > guess if I cut the pipe or sweat/heat the fitting.


    Exactly. When it's time for a new tank, you'll take out your
    handy dandy copper tubing cutter, roll it around on the pipe right
    above where the stubs were sweated to the fittings, and once both
    of them are cut, you can pull the tank, clean up the leftover pipes,
    and be ready to fit the pipes for the new tank. (remembering to
    disconnect the gas too, of course!)

    > The overflow valve just has a 30" length of copper pipe leading
    > straight down towards the floor


    That's actually a bit of overkill! Mine is a length of PVC
    attached to that same fitting that screwed onto the overflow
    valve. I think it was $1.29, preassembled at the box store.

    > - no connections or anything at the
    > bottom end of the pipe; guess if it did ever overflow it would dump
    > right onto the floor right next to the heater and potentially (if the
    > water level rose more than 4 or 5 inches) snuff out the pilot light,
    > etc... Again, this overflow pipe was just soldered onto the end of a
    > fitting and screwed into the overflow valve (as the valve has inside
    > threads).


    The whole idea there is that you should have a (working) floor
    drain somewhere close to the bottom end of that overflow tube.
    The concept of the water raising 4 or 5 inches is never an issue.
    The whole idea of the tube is to direct the water at the floor
    (rather than just spraying out into the room and maybe your eyes)
    and nothing more.

    Couple of other points: The gas line need not be intimidating. If
    the big concern is matching up the old to the new, they *do* sell
    flexi-connectors, just like you would use on a gas stove or clothes
    dryer. They're the wider diameter and usually only a foot long.
    (They're made just for this purpose, you don't need the ability to
    move your water heater while connected, like you do with a stove)

    And this is the perfect time to clean up that old (driping?)
    knuckle buster turning shutoff valve with the lever type that
    flips 90 degrees and gives a visual indication of on/off. They
    are -so- much easier to use.

    --
    TP
     
    I-zheet M'drurz, Aug 28, 2003
    #5
  6. Walleye

    ChrisW Guest

    Where I live the gas company will install the gas line at no cost. This is
    propane and copper tubing is used not black pipe.

    So you may want to consult your gas company. I know some natural gas companies
    do the same.

    ChrisW

    Heathcliff Bambino wrote:
    >
    > David Starr <> wrote in message news:<>...
    > > On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 23:47:29 GMT, "Walleye" <>
    > > wrote:
    > >
    > > >> If you are replacing an existing unit, it's not particularly difficult.

    > > They
    > > >> also make bolt on flex pipe for the supply & return, if sweating copper is

    > > a
    > > >> problem.
    > > >
    > > >The more I think about it I want to try and replace it myself.
    > > >I did see the flex pipe available at the Depot also although I have no
    > > >problem with sweating copper pipe.
    > > >The only thing I can think of that *might* cause me a problem is the gas
    > > >line connection/hookup - everything else seems pretty straight forward.
    > > >
    > > >Any do this before that can give me some pointers?

    > >
    > > I replaced mine in less than an hour.
    > >
    > > Shut off the gas shut-off valve
    > >
    > > Unhooked the old heater & drained it.
    > >
    > > Tipped it over with the drain valve down & let it drain what was in
    > > the bottom while I went to get the new heater.
    > >
    > > Set the new heater in place & hooked up the water lines using the flex
    > > pipe you mentioned above.
    > >
    > > Connected the gas line - used pipe tape made for gas line joints.
    > >
    > > Turned on the water & let it fill.
    > >
    > > Turned on the gas & checked all joints with a mixture of water & dish
    > > detergent - look for bubbles. If none, it's ok.
    > >
    > > Lit the pilot & hauled the old heater out of the basement.
    > >
    > > Done

    >
    > OK this may be a dumb question, but is your current water heater a gas
    > unit? If so installing a new one should be fairly straightforward.
    > If not then you have many complications running gas pipe over, plus
    > venting the heater.
    >
    > If you don't like the HD price you might try calling some other folks.
    > When we replaced our electric stove with a gas one, Sears only
    > charged $99 for the install even though they had to run about 16 feet
    > of new pipe, with a couple of bends.
    >
    > If doing it yourself, the above list is good, and I would add: measure
    > carefully to see if the new unit matches the dimensions of the old
    > one. Also consider how you will get the new unit in and old one out,
    > are there stairs, do you need help, etc.
    >
    > There should be a shutoff valve right near the heater so you don't
    > have to shut off the whole dang house. If not then install one.
     
    ChrisW, Aug 28, 2003
    #6
  7. Walleye

    DaveG Guest

    "TOM KAN PA" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > A hot water heater? If the water is hot, why would you want to heat it?
    >
    > Couldn't resist, don't blame me, if you want to come down on someone,

    sounds
    > like something Stephen Wright would say.
    >
    > That's been one of my pet peeves for years. It's a water heater, not a

    hot water heater.
    Cold water heater would even be more accurate. And I find nothing wrong
    with Steven Wright's humor!!
    At least you had the guts to say something.
    Dave
     
    DaveG, Aug 28, 2003
    #7
  8. Walleye

    Intrigued Guest

    Easy as it might be, I don't do gas repairs, so I gave the job to Home
    Depot. My heater was installed in April 2003, so based on your post, it
    sounds like prices have changed since then.

    Here's what the charges were:

    50 Gallon Rheem Water Heater (best heater sold by Home Depot) (12 year
    warranty 40K BTU) $298.00
    Basic installation (includes delivery of new heater and disposal of old
    heater and draining of old heater if needed) $169.00
    New inlet valve (it definitely needed replacing) - this was paid
    directly to plumber and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advanc
    $45 (parts and labor)
    Upgrade flue to 4" as required by code - this was paid directly to plumber
    and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advance $150 (parts and
    labor)
    Plumbing permit (paid directly to local gov't) $30

    It took the plumber and his assistant 90 minutes to remove the old water
    heater and install and activate the new water heater. The plumber then
    left and had 2 sheet metal guys come the next day to install the new flue,
    which took another hour.

    The plumber probably spent another hour picking up the new water heater,
    disposing of the old water heater, and driving to my house.

    The plumbing inspector came a couple of days after installation and approved
    the installation. (The water heater was operational immediately after
    installation, of course.)

    In the somewhat expensive east coast urban area where I live, I consider
    this a bargain. The workmanship, by the way, was top notch, although
    there's no guarantee that another plumber subcontracted by Home Depot would
    do as good of a job.


    "Walleye" <> wrote in message
    news:3Du1b.154705$...
    > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for

    installation
    > no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less

    than
    > the installation charge!
    > I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at

    least
    > for Home Depot.
    >
    > I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation would be
    > comparable.
    > Too bad I can't install these myself....
    >
    > Walter
    >
    >
     
    Intrigued, Aug 31, 2003
    #8
  9. "CLSSM00X7" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Hi,
    >
    > Everything was priced fair except the flue which was too high.
    >
    > candice
    >
    >

    Changing from a 3" collar to a 4" collar at the chimney takes a bit of
    savvy. Break out the wrong brick or make a mistake nibbling out the flue
    liner and you could end up with a disaster. Every once in a while you hear
    of a contractor having to have the whole chimney rebuilt, which isn't cheap
    when the whole house is standing around the chimney. You pay for the risks
    and talents involved.


    Bill
     
    berkshire bill, Aug 31, 2003
    #9
  10. Damn! I'd call that high! Near as I can tell the standard
    HD installation fee is about what it would cost for a new
    gas heater installation when replacing an electric water
    heater. That's about what I paid for the water heater part
    for a replacement package--electric to gas furnace and water
    heater which include gas installation from the curb. If you
    already have a gas heater installed, a replacement
    installation should be (but apparently isn't) a lot less.
    Was your upgraded flue due to purchase of a higher
    efficiency heater? If so, maybe you should have bought the
    cheaper water heater. My gas water heater, installed about
    2 years ago, uses 3 inch flue and my furnace uses a 3-1/2
    inch flue. And why would you need a plumbing permit for a
    replacement? I sure wouldn't get a building permit for
    anything I was just replacing. Do you guys need a building
    permit to replace carpet, a stove, a garbage disposal, a
    light fixture?

    Every place is different and has different rules but I'm
    glad I don't live on the east coast. Disposal fees here are
    low or non existent (a Goodwill type store picked up my
    electric one as a donation--5 years old with a 10 year
    guarantee and worked perfectly).

    I replaced my original electric water heater after being in
    the house for 20 years (the one mentioned above) and changed
    only the flexible connectors for a cost of about $20. And,
    it only took about 1 hour for me to go buy the heater, put
    in in my pickup and bring it home. After draining the old
    heater it took about 1 hour to install and that included
    moving the washing machine out of the way, cleaning the
    floor, etc. A neighbor was taking a load to the dump so he
    just took my old electric heater too because it wouldn't
    increase his dump fee any. If I ever replace my current gas
    water heater, I doubt that it would cost me more than $35
    and take more than 2 hours including buying and bring the
    new heater home and installing it. Thank God, I don't live
    on the east coast!

    Intrigued wrote:
    >
    > Easy as it might be, I don't do gas repairs, so I gave the job to Home
    > Depot. My heater was installed in April 2003, so based on your post, it
    > sounds like prices have changed since then.
    >
    > Here's what the charges were:
    >
    > 50 Gallon Rheem Water Heater (best heater sold by Home Depot) (12 year
    > warranty 40K BTU) $298.00
    > Basic installation (includes delivery of new heater and disposal of old
    > heater and draining of old heater if needed) $169.00
    > New inlet valve (it definitely needed replacing) - this was paid
    > directly to plumber and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advanc
    > $45 (parts and labor)
    > Upgrade flue to 4" as required by code - this was paid directly to plumber
    > and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advance $150 (parts and
    > labor)
    > Plumbing permit (paid directly to local gov't) $30
    >
    > It took the plumber and his assistant 90 minutes to remove the old water
    > heater and install and activate the new water heater. The plumber then
    > left and had 2 sheet metal guys come the next day to install the new flue,
    > which took another hour.
    >
    > The plumber probably spent another hour picking up the new water heater,
    > disposing of the old water heater, and driving to my house.
    >
    > The plumbing inspector came a couple of days after installation and approved
    > the installation. (The water heater was operational immediately after
    > installation, of course.)
    >
    > In the somewhat expensive east coast urban area where I live, I consider
    > this a bargain. The workmanship, by the way, was top notch, although
    > there's no guarantee that another plumber subcontracted by Home Depot would
    > do as good of a job.
    >
    > "Walleye" <> wrote in message
    > news:3Du1b.154705$...
    > > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for

    > installation
    > > no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less

    > than
    > > the installation charge!
    > > I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at

    > least
    > > for Home Depot.
    > >
    > > I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation would be
    > > comparable.
    > > Too bad I can't install these myself....
    > >
    > > Walter
    > >
    > >
     
    George E. Cawthon, Sep 1, 2003
    #10
  11. Walleye

    Intrigued Guest

    "George E. Cawthon" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Damn! I'd call that high! Near as I can tell the standard


    It's a lot of money, but it's actually less then several plumbers quoted for
    the same job, but with a 10 year warranty "regular efficiency" heater
    instead of the high efficiency 12 year heater from Home Depot. No question,
    though, that doing it yourself is a big money saver if you have the skills
    to do it right.

    > HD installation fee is about what it would cost for a new
    > gas heater installation when replacing an electric water
    > heater. That's about what I paid for the water heater part
    > for a replacement package--electric to gas furnace and water
    > heater which include gas installation from the curb. If you
    > already have a gas heater installed, a replacement
    > installation should be (but apparently isn't) a lot less.
    > Was your upgraded flue due to purchase of a higher
    > efficiency heater?


    The county that I live in requires a 4" flue on all new and replacement gas
    water heater installations. (When my house was built, they required only a
    3" flue.) For the permit to be approved, I had to upgrade the flue. And
    for Home Depot (and any plumber who wants to keep his license) to install a
    water heater, a permit is required. Checking around, though, $150 for a
    flue upgrade in this area is very competitive. Actually, of all of the
    items in the job, I was most shocked by the cost of the flue upgrade. The
    plumber even admitted that it was a lot of money, and jokingly said "it
    costs that much so that plumbers can have steak dinners".

    If so, maybe you should have bought the
    > cheaper water heater. My gas water heater, installed about
    > 2 years ago, uses 3 inch flue and my furnace uses a 3-1/2
    > inch flue. And why would you need a plumbing permit for a
    > replacement?


    The plumbing permit is required by the local government. It's not Home
    Depot's rule.

    I sure wouldn't get a building permit for
    > anything I was just replacing. Do you guys need a building
    > permit to replace carpet, a stove, a garbage disposal, a
    > light fixture?
    >

    No permit needed here to replace any of those items, at least not yet.
    However, a permit is needed to erect a fence, build a shed, repave the
    driveway apron area, replace any major component in the HVAC system (or
    replace the entire system), and lots of other things. (Actually, to repave
    the driveway apron area, they require not only a permit, but also about
    $2500 bond to be posted until the job is approved.)

    > Every place is different and has different rules but I'm
    > glad I don't live on the east coast. Disposal fees here are
    > low or non existent (a Goodwill type store picked up my
    > electric one as a donation--5 years old with a 10 year
    > guarantee and worked perfectly).
    >
    > I replaced my original electric water heater after being in
    > the house for 20 years (the one mentioned above) and changed
    > only the flexible connectors for a cost of about $20. And,
    > it only took about 1 hour for me to go buy the heater, put
    > in in my pickup and bring it home. After draining the old
    > heater it took about 1 hour to install and that included
    > moving the washing machine out of the way, cleaning the
    > floor, etc. A neighbor was taking a load to the dump so he
    > just took my old electric heater too because it wouldn't
    > increase his dump fee any. If I ever replace my current gas
    > water heater, I doubt that it would cost me more than $35
    > and take more than 2 hours including buying and bring the
    > new heater home and installing it. Thank God, I don't live
    > on the east coast!
    >

    Yes, some of these government fees and rules are outragious here. I could
    tell you some amazing stories, but I'd be drifting too far off topic.

    > Intrigued wrote:
    > >
    > > Easy as it might be, I don't do gas repairs, so I gave the job to Home
    > > Depot. My heater was installed in April 2003, so based on your post,

    it
    > > sounds like prices have changed since then.
    > >
    > > Here's what the charges were:
    > >
    > > 50 Gallon Rheem Water Heater (best heater sold by Home Depot) (12 year
    > > warranty 40K BTU) $298.00
    > > Basic installation (includes delivery of new heater and disposal of old
    > > heater and draining of old heater if needed) $169.00
    > > New inlet valve (it definitely needed replacing) - this was paid
    > > directly to plumber and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in

    advanc
    > > $45 (parts and labor)
    > > Upgrade flue to 4" as required by code - this was paid directly to

    plumber
    > > and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advance $150 (parts

    and
    > > labor)
    > > Plumbing permit (paid directly to local gov't) $30
    > >
    > > It took the plumber and his assistant 90 minutes to remove the old water
    > > heater and install and activate the new water heater. The plumber then
    > > left and had 2 sheet metal guys come the next day to install the new

    flue,
    > > which took another hour.
    > >
    > > The plumber probably spent another hour picking up the new water heater,
    > > disposing of the old water heater, and driving to my house.
    > >
    > > The plumbing inspector came a couple of days after installation and

    approved
    > > the installation. (The water heater was operational immediately after
    > > installation, of course.)
    > >
    > > In the somewhat expensive east coast urban area where I live, I consider
    > > this a bargain. The workmanship, by the way, was top notch, although
    > > there's no guarantee that another plumber subcontracted by Home Depot

    would
    > > do as good of a job.
    > >
    > > "Walleye" <> wrote in message
    > > news:3Du1b.154705$...
    > > > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > > > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for

    > > installation
    > > > no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less

    > > than
    > > > the installation charge!
    > > > I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at

    > > least
    > > > for Home Depot.
    > > >
    > > > I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation

    would be
    > > > comparable.
    > > > Too bad I can't install these myself....
    > > >
    > > > Walter
    > > >
    > > >
     
    Intrigued, Sep 2, 2003
    #11
  12. Walleye

    Walter Cohen Guest

    Ok, some extra stuff I found out.....

    The info I could gather at Home Depot from the outside of the boax as
    well as an info packet out in the open mentions I could use flexible
    gas connector only if code allows. Also it mentions a 'garage' stand
    which looks like just the pegs under the water heater to elevate it
    about 2 inches off the floor - again it says 'if code requires'.

    Not sure about the code in my town. My current water heater has black
    gas pipe and also has the water heater stand/pegs.

    Who do I call to find out about code for these in my town?

    HD also sells a connecting kit for gas heaters. $19 for 2 flex water
    connectors, dialective nipples, and compression adapters (as my water
    connections are not threaded). For $27 they also include the flexible
    gas connector in another pack.

    I still want to do this myself as I believe I have enough info and the
    skills to tackle it.

    Thanks to all who have replied.

    Walter

    "Intrigued" <> wrote in message news:<lsR4b.648$>...
    > "George E. Cawthon" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > Damn! I'd call that high! Near as I can tell the standard

    >
    > It's a lot of money, but it's actually less then several plumbers quoted for
    > the same job, but with a 10 year warranty "regular efficiency" heater
    > instead of the high efficiency 12 year heater from Home Depot. No question,
    > though, that doing it yourself is a big money saver if you have the skills
    > to do it right.
    >
    > > HD installation fee is about what it would cost for a new
    > > gas heater installation when replacing an electric water
    > > heater. That's about what I paid for the water heater part
    > > for a replacement package--electric to gas furnace and water
    > > heater which include gas installation from the curb. If you
    > > already have a gas heater installed, a replacement
    > > installation should be (but apparently isn't) a lot less.
    > > Was your upgraded flue due to purchase of a higher
    > > efficiency heater?

    >
    > The county that I live in requires a 4" flue on all new and replacement gas
    > water heater installations. (When my house was built, they required only a
    > 3" flue.) For the permit to be approved, I had to upgrade the flue. And
    > for Home Depot (and any plumber who wants to keep his license) to install a
    > water heater, a permit is required. Checking around, though, $150 for a
    > flue upgrade in this area is very competitive. Actually, of all of the
    > items in the job, I was most shocked by the cost of the flue upgrade. The
    > plumber even admitted that it was a lot of money, and jokingly said "it
    > costs that much so that plumbers can have steak dinners".
    >
    > If so, maybe you should have bought the
    > > cheaper water heater. My gas water heater, installed about
    > > 2 years ago, uses 3 inch flue and my furnace uses a 3-1/2
    > > inch flue. And why would you need a plumbing permit for a
    > > replacement?

    >
    > The plumbing permit is required by the local government. It's not Home
    > Depot's rule.
    >
    > I sure wouldn't get a building permit for
    > > anything I was just replacing. Do you guys need a building
    > > permit to replace carpet, a stove, a garbage disposal, a
    > > light fixture?
    > >

    > No permit needed here to replace any of those items, at least not yet.
    > However, a permit is needed to erect a fence, build a shed, repave the
    > driveway apron area, replace any major component in the HVAC system (or
    > replace the entire system), and lots of other things. (Actually, to repave
    > the driveway apron area, they require not only a permit, but also about
    > $2500 bond to be posted until the job is approved.)
    >
    > > Every place is different and has different rules but I'm
    > > glad I don't live on the east coast. Disposal fees here are
    > > low or non existent (a Goodwill type store picked up my
    > > electric one as a donation--5 years old with a 10 year
    > > guarantee and worked perfectly).
    > >
    > > I replaced my original electric water heater after being in
    > > the house for 20 years (the one mentioned above) and changed
    > > only the flexible connectors for a cost of about $20. And,
    > > it only took about 1 hour for me to go buy the heater, put
    > > in in my pickup and bring it home. After draining the old
    > > heater it took about 1 hour to install and that included
    > > moving the washing machine out of the way, cleaning the
    > > floor, etc. A neighbor was taking a load to the dump so he
    > > just took my old electric heater too because it wouldn't
    > > increase his dump fee any. If I ever replace my current gas
    > > water heater, I doubt that it would cost me more than $35
    > > and take more than 2 hours including buying and bring the
    > > new heater home and installing it. Thank God, I don't live
    > > on the east coast!
    > >

    > Yes, some of these government fees and rules are outragious here. I could
    > tell you some amazing stories, but I'd be drifting too far off topic.
    >
    > > Intrigued wrote:
    > > >
    > > > Easy as it might be, I don't do gas repairs, so I gave the job to Home
    > > > Depot. My heater was installed in April 2003, so based on your post,

    > it
    > > > sounds like prices have changed since then.
    > > >
    > > > Here's what the charges were:
    > > >
    > > > 50 Gallon Rheem Water Heater (best heater sold by Home Depot) (12 year
    > > > warranty 40K BTU) $298.00
    > > > Basic installation (includes delivery of new heater and disposal of old
    > > > heater and draining of old heater if needed) $169.00
    > > > New inlet valve (it definitely needed replacing) - this was paid
    > > > directly to plumber and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in

    > advanc
    > > > $45 (parts and labor)
    > > > Upgrade flue to 4" as required by code - this was paid directly to

    > plumber
    > > > and the price is set by the plumber but quoted in advance $150 (parts

    > and
    > > > labor)
    > > > Plumbing permit (paid directly to local gov't) $30
    > > >
    > > > It took the plumber and his assistant 90 minutes to remove the old water
    > > > heater and install and activate the new water heater. The plumber then
    > > > left and had 2 sheet metal guys come the next day to install the new

    > flue,
    > > > which took another hour.
    > > >
    > > > The plumber probably spent another hour picking up the new water heater,
    > > > disposing of the old water heater, and driving to my house.
    > > >
    > > > The plumbing inspector came a couple of days after installation and

    > approved
    > > > the installation. (The water heater was operational immediately after
    > > > installation, of course.)
    > > >
    > > > In the somewhat expensive east coast urban area where I live, I consider
    > > > this a bargain. The workmanship, by the way, was top notch, although
    > > > there's no guarantee that another plumber subcontracted by Home Depot

    > would
    > > > do as good of a job.
    > > >
    > > > "Walleye" <> wrote in message
    > > > news:3Du1b.154705$...
    > > > > Why does it seem so expensive to install a gas hot water heater?
    > > > > I priced them at Home Depot (GE models) and they want $255 for

    > installation
    > > > > no matter what the size of water heater. Some of the models cost less

    > than
    > > > > the installation charge!
    > > > > I'm just wondering what is involved with the typical installation - at

    > least
    > > > > for Home Depot.
    > > > >
    > > > > I still want to price some at Sears but I assume the installation

    > would be
    > > > > comparable.
    > > > > Too bad I can't install these myself....
    > > > >
    > > > > Walter
    > > > >
    > > > >
     
    Walter Cohen, Sep 10, 2003
    #12
    1. Advertising

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

It takes just 2 minutes to sign up (and it's free!). Just click the sign up button to choose a username and then you can ask your own questions on the forum.

Share This Page