brake metal window trim

Discussion in 'Misc DIY' started by Bob, Jul 14, 2004.

  1. Bob

    Bob Guest

    Any suggestions on the proper method to install
    brake metal trim to cover the old wood trim.
    I am installing new / replacement windows and
    I plan to rent a brake.
    Any websites that describe the best technique.?

    thanks
    Bob, Jul 14, 2004
    #1
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  2. "Bob" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Any suggestions on the proper method to install
    > brake metal trim to cover the old wood trim.
    > I am installing new / replacement windows and
    > I plan to rent a brake.
    > Any websites that describe the best technique.?
    >
    > thanks


    Bend as needed to cap the wood. Trim to final length with metal snips. Use
    aluminum nails and a good caulk.

    Making more than one, figure the width of material you need. Measure where
    the bends should go and then make your first piece. Adjust as needed. Now
    that you have your first piece you want to make a marking template. Cut a
    piece of the material as long as the width of the finished part. Where the
    bends are to be made, cut a notch in the template. Cut all the stock to
    width and mark them using the template so you do not have to measure each
    time.
    Ed
    Edwin Pawlowski, Jul 14, 2004
    #2
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  3. Bob

    Ned Guest

    "Bob" wrote
    > Any suggestions on the proper method to install
    > brake metal trim to cover the old wood trim.
    > I am installing new / replacement windows and
    > I plan to rent a brake.
    > Any websites that describe the best technique.?
    >
    > thanks


    If you have multiple bends in a piece, always start with the inner bends.
    Sometimes you have to pull the material out and flip around depending on
    depth to get the other inner bend. You will find this out once you start
    getting frustrated wondering how it's done.

    Also when installing cap work, you start at bottom of window and work up.
    Sill/sides/head.

    Always try to hide you nails where caulk will cover. Don't face nail in
    plain sight. I prefer stainless colored coated trim nails over aluminum
    nails, they don't bend like aluminum ones do. A trim nail holder helps
    getting the nail in a tight spot where it won't be seen, also saves your
    fingers.

    There are many tricks to get a nice appearance with coil stock, comes with
    experience and picking up tips from others which do nice work.
    Unfortunately it's more difficult to explain than if you were standing
    beside someone where you could watch how to get nice results.
    Ned, Jul 14, 2004
    #3
  4. Bob

    Bob Guest

    "Edwin Pawlowski" <> wrote in message news:<41eJc.44342$>...
    > "Bob" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > Any suggestions on the proper method to install
    > > brake metal trim to cover the old wood trim.
    > > I am installing new / replacement windows and
    > > I plan to rent a brake.
    > > Any websites that describe the best technique.?
    > >
    > > thanks

    >
    > Bend as needed to cap the wood. Trim to final length with metal snips. Use
    > aluminum nails and a good caulk.
    >
    > Making more than one, figure the width of material you need. Measure where
    > the bends should go and then make your first piece. Adjust as needed. Now
    > that you have your first piece you want to make a marking template. Cut a
    > piece of the material as long as the width of the finished part. Where the
    > bends are to be made, cut a notch in the template. Cut all the stock to
    > width and mark them using the template so you do not have to measure each
    > time.
    > Ed



    Thanks for the tip.
    I guess my question was more basic than I actually expressed it.
    Like....Do I do the head & sill first or the jambs ?
    Do I butt the coil stock to the window or screw/rivit it ?
    Is the "L" shape all I need then nail & caulk ??

    sorry for being so inexperienced.
    Bob, Jul 15, 2004
    #4
  5. "Bob" <> wrote in message
    > Thanks for the tip.
    > I guess my question was more basic than I actually expressed it.
    > Like....Do I do the head & sill first or the jambs ?
    > Do I butt the coil stock to the window or screw/rivit it ?
    > Is the "L" shape all I need then nail & caulk ??
    >
    > sorry for being so inexperienced.


    I always did the sill first, then the side, then the top. If there is any
    overlap you want the water to run down the jamb and over the sill. The sill
    should have a slight taper.

    Butt the stock to the window, nail, caulk. In most cases, an "L" is all that
    is required. I've done some older homes than needed a few bends to follow
    the wood trim.

    It has been many years since I did that kind of work. What we used to do
    was take some stock tot he job and bend up templates with the shape needed.
    Measure the windows, then do the majority of the bending in the garage
    instead of on the job.

    I see someone else said to use stainless steel nails instead of aluminum.
    When I did window capping, SS was not available. That is what I'd use today
    so follow his advice.
    Ed

    http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
    Edwin Pawlowski, Jul 15, 2004
    #5
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