Boiler tripping out

Discussion in 'UK DIY' started by Bob Smith, Jan 10, 2004.

  1. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    I have a boiler that is cutting out. I don't know the model number, but it
    has a "ravenheat" logo on it.

    It is a gas boiler, I have the system pressurised to 1 bar, and it does
    instant hot water. All the radiators have TRVs on them (yes, all), and
    there is no room stat. (Ex council house, cheap council installation)

    I have tried putting one radiator valve on full to see if it is overheating
    and tripping out, but it still does. I have also tried altering the water
    temperature (both tap and rads), with no effect.

    After the CH has been on for a while, I notice the rads are cold, and the
    boiler fan is going, but the flame is not burning. Lowering the rad
    thermostat on the boiler until it clicks, then putting it back resets it,
    and it fires up fine. Also, clicking the time clock off and on does the
    trick.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 10, 2004
    #1
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  2. Bob Smith

    Set Square Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Bob Smith <> wrote:

    > I have a boiler that is cutting out. I don't know the model number,
    > but it has a "ravenheat" logo on it.
    >
    > It is a gas boiler, I have the system pressurised to 1 bar, and it
    > does instant hot water. All the radiators have TRVs on them (yes,
    > all), and there is no room stat. (Ex council house, cheap council
    > installation)
    >
    > I have tried putting one radiator valve on full to see if it is
    > overheating and tripping out, but it still does. I have also tried
    > altering the water temperature (both tap and rads), with no effect.
    >
    > After the CH has been on for a while, I notice the rads are cold, and
    > the boiler fan is going, but the flame is not burning. Lowering the
    > rad thermostat on the boiler until it clicks, then putting it back
    > resets it, and it fires up fine. Also, clicking the time clock off
    > and on does the trick.
    >
    > Any ideas?
    >
    > Thanks
    >
    > Bob



    Well one thing's clear - the boiler's overheat stat is tripping - and has to
    be manually reset before the boiler will fire again.

    What isn't so clear is *why*. This could be due to any of several causes,
    which need investigating, including:
    * faulty overheat stat (possibly the prime suspect)
    * insufficient circulation to carry the residual heat away after the main
    stat turns the flame off (This could certainly be the case if *all* the TRVs
    are closed and *may* be the case if only one TRV is open. There could also
    be an intermittent pump problem - but that doesn't sound too likely.) [If
    circulation *is* the problem, I would expect turning down the boiler stat to
    improve matters - since there's more leaway for the temperature to rise
    before tripping the overheat stat].
    * incorrectly wired pump (This is probably the least likely, and would only
    really apply if the whole lot were turned on and off with a room stat - in
    which case it must be wired to keep the pump running for a while after
    turning the boiler off)

    Do you have a means of measuring flow temperature. [If not, it may be a good
    time to invest in an instant reading non-contact IR device from CPC for
    £30 - I don't know how I ever managed without mine!] If you can check the
    boiler outlet pipe temperature immediately after it trips, you can see
    whether the temperature *is* excessive. If it's not, it points to the
    overheat stat. If you suspect the overheat stat, try bridging it - but keep
    a very close eye on the system while running bridged! If this cures it
    without any side effects, fit a new overheat stat. If you get lots of
    gurgling and banging, , turn it off a bit smartish! In this case, it really
    *is* overheating and you need to look at some of the other possibilities.
    --
    Cheers,
    Set Square
    ______
    Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
     
    Set Square, Jan 10, 2004
    #2
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  3. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    "Set Square" <> wrote in message
    news:btps8j$a86q4$-berlin.de...
    > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    > Bob Smith <> wrote:
    >
    > > I have a boiler that is cutting out. I don't know the model number,
    > > but it has a "ravenheat" logo on it.
    > >
    > > It is a gas boiler, I have the system pressurised to 1 bar, and it
    > > does instant hot water. All the radiators have TRVs on them (yes,
    > > all), and there is no room stat. (Ex council house, cheap council
    > > installation)
    > >
    > > I have tried putting one radiator valve on full to see if it is
    > > overheating and tripping out, but it still does. I have also tried
    > > altering the water temperature (both tap and rads), with no effect.
    > >
    > > After the CH has been on for a while, I notice the rads are cold, and
    > > the boiler fan is going, but the flame is not burning. Lowering the
    > > rad thermostat on the boiler until it clicks, then putting it back
    > > resets it, and it fires up fine. Also, clicking the time clock off
    > > and on does the trick.
    > >
    > > Any ideas?
    > >
    > > Thanks
    > >
    > > Bob

    >
    >
    > Well one thing's clear - the boiler's overheat stat is tripping - and has

    to
    > be manually reset before the boiler will fire again.
    >
    > What isn't so clear is *why*. This could be due to any of several causes,
    > which need investigating, including:
    > * faulty overheat stat (possibly the prime suspect)
    > * insufficient circulation to carry the residual heat away after the main
    > stat turns the flame off (This could certainly be the case if *all* the

    TRVs
    > are closed and *may* be the case if only one TRV is open. There could also
    > be an intermittent pump problem - but that doesn't sound too likely.) [If
    > circulation *is* the problem, I would expect turning down the boiler stat

    to
    > improve matters - since there's more leaway for the temperature to rise
    > before tripping the overheat stat].
    > * incorrectly wired pump (This is probably the least likely, and would onl

    y
    > really apply if the whole lot were turned on and off with a room stat - in
    > which case it must be wired to keep the pump running for a while after
    > turning the boiler off)
    >
    > Do you have a means of measuring flow temperature. [If not, it may be a

    good
    > time to invest in an instant reading non-contact IR device from CPC for
    > £30 - I don't know how I ever managed without mine!] If you can check the
    > boiler outlet pipe temperature immediately after it trips, you can see
    > whether the temperature *is* excessive. If it's not, it points to the
    > overheat stat. If you suspect the overheat stat, try bridging it - but

    keep
    > a very close eye on the system while running bridged! If this cures it
    > without any side effects, fit a new overheat stat. If you get lots of
    > gurgling and banging, , turn it off a bit smartish! In this case, it

    really
    > *is* overheating and you need to look at some of the other possibilities.
    > --
    > Cheers,
    > Set Square
    > ______
    > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
    >
    >


    Some useful ideas, thanks - I never get to it just after it has tripped to
    take a temperature though.

    The pump has a 3 minute overrun. If there *is* a (can't remember the name -
    thingy in case all rads are off) would the boiler stop heating in time for
    the small amount of water to not overheat?

    If it has tripped out because of too much heat, would the act of turning
    down the radiator temp knob until it clicks, then putting it back be enough
    to reset it? (the boiler in my last house, you had to take the case off and
    open a metal enclosure to get to the thermal cutout reset).

    I will turn the temp down, and leave 2 rads on full to see if it cuts down
    the frequency of tripouts.

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 11, 2004
    #3
  4. Bob Smith

    Set Square Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Bob Smith <> wrote:

    > "Set Square" <> wrote in message
    > news:btps8j$a86q4$-berlin.de...
    >> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    >> Bob Smith <> wrote:
    >>
    >>> I have a boiler that is cutting out. I don't know the model
    >>> number, but it has a "ravenheat" logo on it.
    >>>
    >>> It is a gas boiler, I have the system pressurised to 1 bar, and it
    >>> does instant hot water. All the radiators have TRVs on them (yes,
    >>> all), and there is no room stat. (Ex council house, cheap council
    >>> installation)
    >>>
    >>> I have tried putting one radiator valve on full to see if it is
    >>> overheating and tripping out, but it still does. I have also tried
    >>> altering the water temperature (both tap and rads), with no effect.
    >>>
    >>> After the CH has been on for a while, I notice the rads are cold,
    >>> and the boiler fan is going, but the flame is not burning.
    >>> Lowering the rad thermostat on the boiler until it clicks, then
    >>> putting it back resets it, and it fires up fine. Also, clicking
    >>> the time clock off and on does the trick.
    >>>
    >>> Any ideas?
    >>>
    >>> Thanks
    >>>
    >>> Bob

    >>
    >>
    >> Well one thing's clear - the boiler's overheat stat is tripping -
    >> and has to be manually reset before the boiler will fire again.
    >>
    >> What isn't so clear is *why*. This could be due to any of several
    >> causes, which need investigating, including:
    >> * faulty overheat stat (possibly the prime suspect)
    >> * insufficient circulation to carry the residual heat away after the
    >> main stat turns the flame off (This could certainly be the case if
    >> *all* the TRVs are closed and *may* be the case if only one TRV is
    >> open. There could also be an intermittent pump problem - but that
    >> doesn't sound too likely.) [If circulation *is* the problem, I would
    >> expect turning down the boiler stat to improve matters - since
    >> there's more leaway for the temperature to rise before tripping the
    >> overheat stat]. * incorrectly wired pump (This is probably the least
    >> likely, and would onl y really apply if the whole lot were turned on
    >> and off with a room stat - in which case it must be wired to keep
    >> the pump running for a while after turning the boiler off)
    >>
    >> Do you have a means of measuring flow temperature. [If not, it may
    >> be a good time to invest in an instant reading non-contact IR device
    >> from CPC for £30 - I don't know how I ever managed without mine!] If
    >> you can check the boiler outlet pipe temperature immediately after
    >> it trips, you can see whether the temperature *is* excessive. If
    >> it's not, it points to the overheat stat. If you suspect the
    >> overheat stat, try bridging it - but keep a very close eye on the
    >> system while running bridged! If this cures it without any side
    >> effects, fit a new overheat stat. If you get lots of gurgling and
    >> banging, , turn it off a bit smartish! In this case, it really *is*
    >> overheating and you need to look at some of the other possibilities.
    >> --
    >> Cheers,
    >> Set Square
    >> ______
    >> Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
    >>
    >>

    >
    > Some useful ideas, thanks - I never get to it just after it has
    > tripped to take a temperature though.


    You could try to induce it to misbehave though, by turning off the CH at the
    programmer when the boiler is running at full chat. Verify that the pump
    continues to run, and monitor the outlet temperature for a couple of
    minutes.
    >
    > The pump has a 3 minute overrun. If there *is* a (can't remember the
    > name - thingy in case all rads are off) would the boiler stop heating
    > in time for the small amount of water to not overheat?


    You're probably referring to an automatic by-pass valve. If you had one -
    which you probably don't - it would open if the pump were running but the
    water had nowhere else to go because all the TRVs were closed. As long as
    the pump kept going for a little while after the boiler stopped firing, this
    should be sufficient to carry the heat away without the trip operating.
    >
    > If it has tripped out because of too much heat, would the act of
    > turning down the radiator temp knob until it clicks, then putting it
    > back be enough to reset it? (the boiler in my last house, you had to
    > take the case off and open a metal enclosure to get to the thermal
    > cutout reset).


    Probably. There are various designs of over-heat stat. On my MkI Baxi Solo
    boiler, a little button pops out which has to be pushed in to reset it. On
    more recent versions of the same boiler, the reset procedure is to turn the
    thermostat knob right down and then back up again. Yours is probably like
    that.
    >
    > I will turn the temp down, and leave 2 rads on full to see if it cuts
    > down the frequency of tripouts.
    >
    > Bob



    Let us know how you get on!
    --
    Cheers,
    Set Square
    ______
    Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
     
    Set Square, Jan 11, 2004
    #4
  5. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    >>
    >> I will turn the temp down, and leave 2 rads on full to see if it cuts
    >> down the frequency of tripouts.

    >
    >
    > Let us know how you get on!


    Well, I turned the heat down, and put 2 rads on full, and it still cuts out.
    I think it is even more than before, but it is a seemingly random thing
    anyway.

    I think the thermal cutout thing is working, because it can go for a couple
    of hours, and the rads do feel hot, so i don't think it is cutting out
    early.

    I fiddled with the pump. It has 3 speed settings, and all three sound
    different, although it may not be fully functional. When the switch is
    between settings, the pump stops (break before make switch), and the water
    sounds like it is boiling, although it did not cut out (I didn't hold it
    there long).

    I don't have a thermometer to check the water temperature.

    The firing up sequence sounds like:

    Demand for heat
    flame light comes on dull
    small click: fan starts
    pause
    flame light goes bright
    large click (gas valve)
    whoomph (gas lights)
    flame light goes off (as though it is a "request to light" indicator)

    When I find it has cut out, the fan is going, and the light is on bright,
    and no gas is being used up.

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #5
  6. Bob Smith

    Set Square Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Bob Smith <> wrote:

    >>> I will turn the temp down, and leave 2 rads on full to see if it
    >>> cuts down the frequency of tripouts.

    >>
    >>
    >> Let us know how you get on!

    >
    > Well, I turned the heat down, and put 2 rads on full, and it still
    > cuts out. I think it is even more than before, but it is a seemingly
    > random thing anyway.
    >
    > I think the thermal cutout thing is working, because it can go for a
    > couple of hours, and the rads do feel hot, so i don't think it is
    > cutting out early.
    >
    > I fiddled with the pump. It has 3 speed settings, and all three sound
    > different, although it may not be fully functional. When the switch
    > is between settings, the pump stops (break before make switch), and
    > the water sounds like it is boiling, although it did not cut out (I
    > didn't hold it there long).
    >
    > I don't have a thermometer to check the water temperature.
    >
    > The firing up sequence sounds like:
    >
    > Demand for heat
    > flame light comes on dull
    > small click: fan starts
    > pause
    > flame light goes bright
    > large click (gas valve)
    > whoomph (gas lights)
    > flame light goes off (as though it is a "request to light" indicator)
    >
    > When I find it has cut out, the fan is going, and the light is on
    > bright, and no gas is being used up.
    >
    > Bob



    This is all very interesting! I'm no longer convinced that it *is* the
    overheat stat operating.

    When my boiler cuts out on its overheat stat, it cuts power to everything -
    so no fan, no LEDs, no ignition.

    Unless the internal wiring of your boiler is different from mine (and it may
    well be!) the fact that the fan is still running suggests to me that the
    prpblem is downstream of the fan - like the pressure switch or ignition
    system - or even the main PCB. Whatever it is, it seems that turning it off
    and on resets something and gets it going again.

    Can you remind me of the make and model of your boiler. Do you have an
    installation manual with internal wiring diagrams? Does it have a
    fault-finding chart?
    --
    Cheers,
    Set Square
    ______
    Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
     
    Set Square, Jan 13, 2004
    #6
  7. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    Set Square wrote:
    > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    > Bob Smith <> wrote:
    >
    >>>> I will turn the temp down, and leave 2 rads on full to see if it
    >>>> cuts down the frequency of tripouts.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> Let us know how you get on!

    >>
    >> Well, I turned the heat down, and put 2 rads on full, and it still
    >> cuts out. I think it is even more than before, but it is a seemingly
    >> random thing anyway.
    >>
    >> I think the thermal cutout thing is working, because it can go for a
    >> couple of hours, and the rads do feel hot, so i don't think it is
    >> cutting out early.
    >>
    >> I fiddled with the pump. It has 3 speed settings, and all three
    >> sound different, although it may not be fully functional. When the
    >> switch
    >> is between settings, the pump stops (break before make switch), and
    >> the water sounds like it is boiling, although it did not cut out (I
    >> didn't hold it there long).
    >>
    >> I don't have a thermometer to check the water temperature.
    >>
    >> The firing up sequence sounds like:
    >>
    >> Demand for heat
    >> flame light comes on dull
    >> small click: fan starts
    >> pause
    >> flame light goes bright
    >> large click (gas valve)
    >> whoomph (gas lights)
    >> flame light goes off (as though it is a "request to light" indicator)
    >>
    >> When I find it has cut out, the fan is going, and the light is on
    >> bright, and no gas is being used up.
    >>
    >> Bob

    >
    >
    > This is all very interesting! I'm no longer convinced that it *is* the
    > overheat stat operating.
    >
    > When my boiler cuts out on its overheat stat, it cuts power to
    > everything - so no fan, no LEDs, no ignition.
    >
    > Unless the internal wiring of your boiler is different from mine (and
    > it may well be!) the fact that the fan is still running suggests to
    > me that the prpblem is downstream of the fan - like the pressure
    > switch or ignition system - or even the main PCB. Whatever it is, it
    > seems that turning it off and on resets something and gets it going
    > again.
    >
    > Can you remind me of the make and model of your boiler. Do you have an
    > installation manual with internal wiring diagrams? Does it have a
    > fault-finding chart?


    It is a Ravenheat, with no model number or identification (unless it is
    under the plumbers "call me" sticker). There was no manual when we moved
    into the house. I could take a picture with and without it's front cover on
    (ooer missis!) if that would help.

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #7
  8. Bob Smith

    Set Square Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Bob Smith <> wrote:

    >
    > It is a Ravenheat, with no model number or identification (unless it
    > is under the plumbers "call me" sticker). There was no manual when
    > we moved into the house. I could take a picture with and without
    > it's front cover on (ooer missis!) if that would help.
    >
    > Bob



    It might help someone identify it - not me, I'm afraid - I only know about
    the boilers I have owned.

    Since you don't have an installation manual, my thoughts were that we may be
    able to download one from the maker's website. But we *do* need to know the
    model. There may be a plate inside the casing, if it doesn't say on the
    outside.
    --
    Cheers,
    Set Square
    ______
    Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
     
    Set Square, Jan 13, 2004
    #8
  9. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    >
    >>
    >> It is a Ravenheat, with no model number or identification (unless it
    >> is under the plumbers "call me" sticker). There was no manual when
    >> we moved into the house. I could take a picture with and without
    >> it's front cover on (ooer missis!) if that would help.
    >>
    >> Bob

    >
    >
    > It might help someone identify it - not me, I'm afraid - I only know
    > about the boilers I have owned.
    >
    > Since you don't have an installation manual, my thoughts were that we
    > may be able to download one from the maker's website. But we *do*
    > need to know the model. There may be a plate inside the casing, if
    > it doesn't say on the outside.
    > --


    OK, will look for a plate, and peel the plumber's sticker off. Failing
    that, I will take some piccies. Then I could find a PDF or something with
    te wiring diagram in.

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #9
  10. Bob Smith

    Set Square Guest

    In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    Set Square <> wrote:

    > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
    > Bob Smith <> wrote:
    >
    >>
    >> It is a Ravenheat, with no model number or identification (unless it
    >> is under the plumbers "call me" sticker). There was no manual when
    >> we moved into the house. I could take a picture with and without
    >> it's front cover on (ooer missis!) if that would help.
    >>
    >> Bob

    >
    >
    > It might help someone identify it - not me, I'm afraid - I only know
    > about the boilers I have owned.
    >
    > Since you don't have an installation manual, my thoughts were that we
    > may be able to download one from the maker's website. But we *do*
    > need to know the model. There may be a plate inside the casing, if
    > it doesn't say on the outside.
    > --
    > Cheers,
    > Set Square
    > ______
    > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!



    Just had a look at the Ravenheat site. They do have downloadable manuals -
    at least for their current boilers. Have a look at
    http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/manuals.htm
    --
    Cheers,
    Set Square
    ______
    Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!
     
    Set Square, Jan 13, 2004
    #10
  11. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    >
    >
    > Just had a look at the Ravenheat site. They do have downloadable
    > manuals - at least for their current boilers. Have a look at
    > http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/manuals.htm


    Thanks for that - Had a look at the manuals, looks like a few have the same
    casing. Failing all other methods of ID (peeling sticker, finding plate
    etc.) I could go to the factory and ask. The address on those leaflets is
    in Morley, Leeds, and that's where I live. I know the place, thinking about
    it, but just thought it was a ravenheat stockists.

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #11
  12. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    > Thanks for that - Had a look at the manuals, looks like a few have the
    same
    > casing. Failing all other methods of ID (peeling sticker, finding plate
    > etc.) I could go to the factory and ask. The address on those leaflets is
    > in Morley, Leeds, and that's where I live. I know the place, thinking

    about
    > it, but just thought it was a ravenheat stockists.
    >
    > Bob
    >
    >


    Right, I found a 1"x1" sticker inside with RSF 82 ET and a barcode on it.
    The PDF is online (they still make this thing?) and the picture of the guts
    looks like the beast. (
    http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/pdf/RSF82/RSF82screenV3.pdf )

    The PDF says it is auto modulating though, does this mean it varies the
    flame, because I am sure mine burns full blast in short bursts?

    Anyway, what's next?

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #12
  13. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    "Bob Smith" <> wrote in message news:40044cde@212.67.96.135...
    > > Thanks for that - Had a look at the manuals, looks like a few have the

    > same
    > > casing. Failing all other methods of ID (peeling sticker, finding plate
    > > etc.) I could go to the factory and ask. The address on those leaflets

    is
    > > in Morley, Leeds, and that's where I live. I know the place, thinking

    > about
    > > it, but just thought it was a ravenheat stockists.
    > >
    > > Bob
    > >
    > >

    >
    > Right, I found a 1"x1" sticker inside with RSF 82 ET and a barcode on it.
    > The PDF is online (they still make this thing?) and the picture of the

    guts
    > looks like the beast. (
    > http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/pdf/RSF82/RSF82screenV3.pdf )
    >
    > The PDF says it is auto modulating though, does this mean it varies the
    > flame, because I am sure mine burns full blast in short bursts?
    >
    > Anyway, what's next?
    >
    > Bob
    >
    >
    >

    Just noticed there is a troubleshooting flowchart. The "screen version" is
    a bit blurry. I will get the printable version and print it at work

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 13, 2004
    #13
  14. In message <40044cde@212.67.96.135>, Bob Smith <> writes
    >Right, I found a 1"x1" sticker inside with RSF 82 ET and a barcode on it.
    >The PDF is online (they still make this thing?) and the picture of the guts
    >looks like the beast. (
    >http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/pdf/RSF82/RSF82screenV3.pdf )
    >
    >The PDF says it is auto modulating though, does this mean it varies the
    >flame, because I am sure mine burns full blast in short bursts?
    >
    >Anyway, what's next?


    Have you followed the fault finding flow charts on page 40 and 41?

    --
    Richard Faulkner
     
    Richard Faulkner, Jan 14, 2004
    #14
  15. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    Richard Faulkner wrote:
    > In message <40044cde@212.67.96.135>, Bob Smith <> writes
    >> Right, I found a 1"x1" sticker inside with RSF 82 ET and a barcode
    >> on it. The PDF is online (they still make this thing?) and the
    >> picture of the guts looks like the beast. (
    >> http://www.ravenheat.co.uk/pdf/RSF82/RSF82screenV3.pdf )
    >>
    >> The PDF says it is auto modulating though, does this mean it varies
    >> the flame, because I am sure mine burns full blast in short bursts?
    >>
    >> Anyway, what's next?

    >
    > Have you followed the fault finding flow charts on page 40 and 41?


    I am getting the printable one right now. (the screen version one was a bit
    blurry and unreadable).

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 14, 2004
    #15
  16. Bob Smith

    Bob Smith Guest

    >
    > >Anyway, what's next?

    >
    > Have you followed the fault finding flow charts on page 40 and 41?
    >


    Right, I followed the flowchart, and in normal operation, I fall off the
    bottom of the flowchart, everything being hunky dory most of the time.

    When I find the boiler in it's "stupid" state, it either has not turned the
    gas on, or not lit when it tried to turn the gas on. The flowchart suggests
    checking the gas valve or the spark electrode respectively. Also could be a
    pilot injector blockage.

    Are any of these items known to be intermittently faulty? I can't see the
    gas valve being affected by temperature, and the pilot and spark electrode
    are only required at the beginning of each lightup (and so should have
    cooled a bit)

    Any ideas?

    Bob
     
    Bob Smith, Jan 16, 2004
    #16
  17. Bob Smith

    Ed Sirett Guest

    On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 20:10:47 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:

    >>
    >> >Anyway, what's next?

    >>
    >> Have you followed the fault finding flow charts on page 40 and 41?
    >>

    >
    > Right, I followed the flowchart, and in normal operation, I fall off the
    > bottom of the flowchart, everything being hunky dory most of the time.
    >
    > When I find the boiler in it's "stupid" state, it either has not turned the
    > gas on, or not lit when it tried to turn the gas on. The flowchart suggests
    > checking the gas valve or the spark electrode respectively. Also could be a
    > pilot injector blockage.
    >
    > Are any of these items known to be intermittently faulty? I can't see the
    > gas valve being affected by temperature, and the pilot and spark electrode
    > are only required at the beginning of each lightup (and so should have
    > cooled a bit)
    >


    If the ignition becomes marginal then a slight change in the conditions
    (such as temperature, gas pressure, supply voltage perhaps) can make all
    the difference between working and not working.

    The gas valve is probably the least likely item to go wrong.
    The spark electrode, pilot jet or gas pressure and likely items.


    --
    Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
    The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
    Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
    Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
     
    Ed Sirett, Jan 16, 2004
    #17
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