Boiler Shuts Down

Discussion in 'Home Repair' started by John F., Mar 6, 2006.

  1. John F.

    John F. Guest

    When the outside temps (I'm in upstate NY) get down to the teens and single
    digits my boiler can't keep up with the heat loss. There is baseboard
    cabinet (7 inch cabinet) running the entire perimeter of the first floor
    exterior walls of the four rooms (each 13x13) the zone covers. The rooms
    are 8' 9" and all walls are insulated to R-13. The windows are dbl
    insulated glass and the basement ceiling below is insulated as well. The
    heat pipes are also fully insulated in the basement. The boiler (oil fired
    baseboard hot water 2 zone system) rated at 150,000 btu shuts down when it
    reaches the 180 deg boiler/water temp. I've been told that the 180 deg is
    the proper shut down. The thermostat calls for heat with a 2 degree drop in
    temperature. Right now it only runs for about 10 minutes before it reaches
    its 180 deg mark and then shuts down for about 15 mins. The result is a
    net loss of room temperature especially at night of upwards of 6 to 8
    degrees resulting in a room temp of 60 to 62 degrees by morning. If temps
    go into the below zeros then the boiler never catrhches up even in the
    daytime. So my question is what if anything can I do or have the oil
    burner service company do to have the burner deliver heat for a longer
    peiod. Your usual good input would be appreciated. Thanks. John
    John F., Mar 6, 2006
    #1
  2. John F.

    RBM Guest

    If I'm reading your post correctly, it sounds like the entire system shuts
    down when the boiler reaches 180, which it shouldn't. You have two zones and
    I don't know if they are zone valves with one circulator or two circulators
    but, in either case, the thermostat should control the circulation of the
    hot water, and should keep it circulating until the thermostat is satisfied.



    "John F." <> wrote in message
    news:p...
    > When the outside temps (I'm in upstate NY) get down to the teens and
    > single digits my boiler can't keep up with the heat loss. There is
    > baseboard cabinet (7 inch cabinet) running the entire perimeter of the
    > first floor exterior walls of the four rooms (each 13x13) the zone
    > covers. The rooms are 8' 9" and all walls are insulated to R-13. The
    > windows are dbl insulated glass and the basement ceiling below is
    > insulated as well. The heat pipes are also fully insulated in the
    > basement. The boiler (oil fired baseboard hot water 2 zone system)
    > rated at 150,000 btu shuts down when it reaches the 180 deg boiler/water
    > temp. I've been told that the 180 deg is the proper shut down. The
    > thermostat calls for heat with a 2 degree drop in temperature. Right now
    > it only runs for about 10 minutes before it reaches its 180 deg mark and
    > then shuts down for about 15 mins. The result is a net loss of room
    > temperature especially at night of upwards of 6 to 8 degrees resulting in
    > a room temp of 60 to 62 degrees by morning. If temps go into the below
    > zeros then the boiler never catrhches up even in the daytime. So my
    > question is what if anything can I do or have the oil burner service
    > company do to have the burner deliver heat for a longer peiod. Your usual
    > good input would be appreciated. Thanks. John
    >
    RBM, Mar 6, 2006
    #2
  3. John F.

    Guest

    John, it can be tough to tell on some units if the circulator is
    running, or not.

    If the thermostat is closed, the circ pump should be running, and the
    burner itself will run or not as needed to keep the water in the boiler
    hot.

    The only thing I can add to the replies here is to make sure the
    thermostat doesn't have its anticipator set to give absurdly short
    cycles.

    Don't know how to check it on an electronic thermostat, but on a good
    ol' mechanical one remove the cover and look for a little dial in the
    middle of the metal coil, and see if its labeled.
    If its set far into the 'shorter cycles' zone this could cause the
    thermostat to shut off too quickly.
    This is actually a little heater that is adjusted such that the
    thermostat shuts off as the proper temp is approach so the temp doesn't
    overshoot by a wide margin.

    Dave
    , Mar 6, 2006
    #3
  4. John F.

    John F. Guest

    Thanks for input. That cicrulator is sounding supicious now that it has
    come up.
    I'm sure the burner people will not like it as my conract includes
    circulator replacement. Is there some easily done test without dismantling
    system to see if the pump is weak or really bad?


    "Speedy Jim" <> wrote in message
    news:SE0Pf.26278$...
    > John F. wrote:
    >> When the outside temps (I'm in upstate NY) get down to the teens and
    >> single digits my boiler can't keep up with the heat loss. There is
    >> baseboard cabinet (7 inch cabinet) running the entire perimeter of the
    >> first floor exterior walls of the four rooms (each 13x13) the zone
    >> covers. The rooms are 8' 9" and all walls are insulated to R-13. The
    >> windows are dbl insulated glass and the basement ceiling below is
    >> insulated as well. The heat pipes are also fully insulated in the
    >> basement. The boiler (oil fired baseboard hot water 2 zone system)
    >> rated at 150,000 btu shuts down when it reaches the 180 deg boiler/water
    >> temp. I've been told that the 180 deg is the proper shut down. The
    >> thermostat calls for heat with a 2 degree drop in temperature. Right now
    >> it only runs for about 10 minutes before it reaches its 180 deg mark and
    >> then shuts down for about 15 mins. The result is a net loss of room
    >> temperature especially at night of upwards of 6 to 8 degrees resulting in
    >> a room temp of 60 to 62 degrees by morning. If temps go into the below
    >> zeros then the boiler never catrhches up even in the daytime. So my
    >> question is what if anything can I do or have the oil burner service
    >> company do to have the burner deliver heat for a longer peiod. Your
    >> usual good input would be appreciated. Thanks. John

    > It doesn't sound like a burner/boiler problem to me.
    >
    > If the boiler is easily maintaining ~180F, the problem
    > seems to be that the circ pump and radiation can't *remove*
    > enough BTU from the water.
    >
    > For example: Although the boiler has a rating of 150,000BTU/Hr,
    > let's say that the rads can only unload 50,000BTU/Hr.
    > The burner would only need to run 1/3 the time .
    >
    > But the house needs 100,000BTU/Hr in coldest weather (example).
    > The boiler *could* produce that easily, but the rads can't
    > pump the BTU's into the house fast enough. So...house gets cold.
    >
    > You may have to have someone re-calculate the fin-tube area
    > required and/or the pump capacity to deliver enough water velocity.
    >
    > Jim
    John F., Mar 7, 2006
    #4
  5. John F.

    Ben Guest

    Do you have zone valves, or pumps that are controlled by "there should
    be 2" thermostats 180 degree temp sounds OK. When the boiler reaches
    180 degrees the burner should shut off but the pump or pumps should
    stay running until the room temps have reached the setting on the
    t-stat. Check to see if the zone valves are open all the way (there is
    a dial on the body of each zone valve) so you can open these manually.
    The pumps could be bad or the Zone Valves could be bad!!!
    Good Luck
    Ben, Mar 8, 2006
    #5

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